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Changing Paper Fuel Filter On 2012 Superb Diesel 1.6

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Hi.

 

I'm planning on replacing my paper, (I assume?) fuel filter soon. The filter housing, I also assume is next to the engine, on my 2012, Skoda Superb 1.6 TDI.

This is the filter I'm using;

https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/filters/fuel-filters/borgbeckfuelfilterbff8000-detail
I've never attempted a fuel filter change on a car like this before. 

Any tips appreciated. Does this Superb have one of two fuel filters? Is it fairly easy to replace the filter shown in the link above whilst ensuring no air bubbles get trapped in the system?

14 hours ago, 2006edr said:

Is it fairly easy to replace the filter shown in the link above whilst ensuring no air bubbles get trapped in the system?

I did it for the first time about 6 months ago on my '09 2.0 tdi. Very straight forward. After I had opened the screws on the filter housing cap I left the filter dangling above the housing, dripping fuel back to the housing, and went for a cup of coffee, to reduce the amount of diesel removed from the fuel system. For me the housing lid was very tight to fit back on, but I guess it just is that way. When I was done and started the car I turned ignition on twice before cranking to prime the fuel system. I dont know if it was necessary but I wanted to play it safe. Car started no problem.

  • Author

I've been trying to understand why some people drain the old fuel from the filter housing, (and replace with fresh fuel) before they refit the metal top of the filter. How important this is?

 

Is this just an added precaution that's not particularly necessary to ensure there's no residue left inside the filter housing? (Including water?) Not everyone does this but sometimes I read critical comments by those who have done this aimed at people who don't do it.

 

Any input about this would be appreciated. 

6 minutes ago, 2006edr said:

I've been trying to understand why some people drain the old fuel from the filter housing, (and replace with fresh fuel) before they refit the metal top of the filter. How important this is?

 

Is this just an added precaution that's not particularly necessary to ensure there's no residue left inside the filter housing? (Including water?) Not everyone does this but sometimes I read critical comments by those who have done this aimed at people who don't do it.

 

Any input about this would be appreciated. 

I would say it's one of those things that can give some people peace of mind but won't make any difference in a normal situation. If there would be residue left wouldn't that mean you've been running all that crap through your fuel system AND the filter? I may be wrong!

  • Author

Occasionally people have also commented that when changing the fuel filter it's necessary to reset or recalibrate the car computer. The same posters have claimed major damage can be caused if this isn't done. Others imply it isn't necessary to recalibrate the computer after a fuel filter change. I have a 2012 model. Maybe it's just a case of ensuring the fresh fuel is near the top of the filter housing, and ensuring the key is turned without starting the car a few times before trying to start the car?

32 minutes ago, 2006edr said:

Occasionally people have also commented that when changing the fuel filter it's necessary to reset or recalibrate the car computer. The same posters have claimed major damage can be caused if this isn't done. Others imply it isn't necessary to recalibrate the computer after a fuel filter change. I have a 2012 model. Maybe it's just a case of ensuring the fresh fuel is near the top of the filter housing, and ensuring the key is turned without starting the car a few times before trying to start the car?

I also read such posts when I was preparing for filter change. If I remember correctly this "recalibration" was just something to do with priming the fuel system. And as we've concluded it is not necessary if you don't drain the housing. Again, I'm not an expert and these are just my own experiences.

Technically, as I understand it, the correct procedure is to prime the fuel pump using VCDS (or similar) when you change the fuel filter. Basically, the fuel pump is run for 30 seconds to fully pressurise or something, before starting the ignition. Failure to do this can, apparently, cause damage to the fuel pump and system. So if you have VCDS it would be sensible to follow that advise (you can find the steps to carry out the procedure with a quick Google or follow the Ross-Tech wiki http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Pump_Basic_Settings_for_PD,_PPD,_and_CR_TDI_Engines ).

 

For what it's worth, I have changed the fuel filter in the past without using VCDS (before I knew the recommended procedure) and didn't run into any problems at all. But you pays your money and you makes your choices I guess.

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