So here goes. 
 

I bought a Tour de France edition 2014 Octavia mk3 2.0cr diesel about 3 months ago - I love the thing. I also loathe it. 
 

since I got it it’s had nothing but trouble. It lost coolant originally - after bypassing the egr cooler and a new timing belt and water pump I tracked to a cracked inlet manifold Cooler. Ballache but sorted. 
 

Discovered a broken wire last week that goes over the top of the engine and down to turbo. Mechanic repaired it - was told it was a pre turbo air temp sensor. Cleared the fault then the next day after driving 70 miles it throws up brake workshop fault - also anti skid, tyre pressure flashing engine management abs and air bag lights - steering got a touch heavier and the Bluetooth to My phone died. Car still ran and did another 30 miles home and the infotainment worked but the car stats didn’t. 
 

come this morning tried to start - all same lights are on - starts and runs for 5 seconds and dies.

 

tried to plug in a basic diagnostics and it’s coming up no communication 

 

what the hell do I do now? I’m beat

51 minutes ago, Touchoftheclutch said:

anti skid, tyre pressure flashing engine management abs and air bag lights - steering got a touch heavier and the Bluetooth to My phone died.

You got a voltmeter? This is classic signs of a dying or dead battery or alternator. Also, when you switch the ignition on, do you get a battery light? Your "video clip" is 1 second of pure black.

21 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

You got a voltmeter? This is classic signs of a dying or dead battery or alternator. Also, when you switch the ignition on, do you get a battery light? Your "video clip" is 1 second of pure black.

Bit extreme for battery no?  Haven’t noticed a battery light when I turn it on. Surely it would have put a battery light on when the car was

still running? 

Did you buy this car from a dealer?

I ask that because if you did and it was from Northern Ireland you are still covered under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. You can take the car back to the garage that sold you it and they have to repair it. Your car has a 6 month warranty on it under that act as it has to be fit for purpose. The dealer cannot refuse as the act is law and makes them liable. 

Sadly not - lands on me to fix unfortunately or it would have been kicked to the kerb a while ago. Shame as I love the thing when its right

 

11 hours ago, Touchoftheclutch said:

Bit extreme for battery no?  Haven’t noticed a battery light when I turn it on. Surely it would have put a battery light on when the car was

still running? 

You reckon!? I asked you if you had a diagnostic device that would confirm the health of your battery, and costs a fraction of what a new battery does. That doesn't seem extreme to me. Apparently you can get one that plugs into the auxiliary socket for about £2-00.

 

As to asking about the battery light on the fascia, that's an attempt at remote diagnostics. If you have a working battery light it tells me certain things. If you don't that also tells me certain things, in this case that your base problem (fix it and the other go away) is a break in the alternator control wires.

 

 

I would consider buying obdeleven as a diagnostic tool. But if you suspect the battery I would get a meter on it and measure it with the engine off. After start up and then load test it by switching on everything, lights, main beam, fan on full, heated windscreens, mirrors and radio. Then test the voltage. If the voltage drops massively it would point to battery or alternator. My bet would be battery.

You could fit your own battery and code it with obdeleven. I have it and the amount of work I have done on the car. It has paid for itself ten time over.

So I had the battery out and had it on a trickle charger - I’ve no tools other than basics where I’m at so I was able to charge it and try it but it’s the same.  Tried an obd diagnostics tool the same as the bigger laptop diagnostics we tried and it also failed to connect to the car and both have done so previously. Going to bite the bullet and put a new battery into it to see if it does anything but I’m not hopeful.

 

does the lack of diagnostics also ring true to a battery issue?

 

don’t get me wrong I know the battery can’t be good when I saw the date stamp so I’m praying this cures it. No mechanic I’ve spoke to wants to touch it

Also -  no battery light on at all on the car 

1 minute ago, Touchoftheclutch said:

Also -  no battery light on at all on the car

OK, from what else you're posted, go to a local garage, tell them you've no battery light and ask them to check the alternator control wires. Maybe 30 minutes work, and most of the problems will vanish.

Done the checks tonight and replaced the battery - only thing I can find is a blown fuse to data bus control unit. Must be a short somewhere as the fuse is blowing as soon as I replace it. Car on or off