Car was in dealer for separate issue … they reported pads down to 20% 

Their cost to change pads & discs is £340.  Which seems high

set of discs & pads is £85.

 

Not changed discs in a while, this video looks like it’s all simple enough on Kodiaq, any comments ?

 

 

 

 

seen quite a few parts sellers …such as this link, anybody recommend one ?

 

https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/car-parts/Skoda/Kodiaq/2.0L/Petrol/NK/Brakes/Brake-Disc-and-Pad-Sets/DAP_NK3147160SET RS/1/735?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9ZeO0Oux8wIVmt_tCh2Mbga9EAQYASABEgKP_fD_BwE

 

 

 

 

If you have electric parking brake, you either need a special wind back tool for the handbrake, or you need to have access to coding that allows it to be electrically wound back in.  The callipers need to retract to get new thicker pads in.

 

I doubt if a Kodiaq is old enough, but on some older models discs can be rusted and fused, so devil to get old one off.

 

 

Can be done with an OBDELEVEN

Sadly it is so common that the pads are reported to be down to 20% when actually that should be are down by 20% so still have 80% wear left.

 

This is told to you by someone on the Service Desk, so by someone with a NVQ in Keyboards and the use of a phone.

They have had the 'Up selling training',  Fuel Treatment, AC Servicing, Discs / Pads need replacing.

If the technician has to come out and confirm the actual thickness of the pads they can not.

 

So if the pads are worn and need replacing before the next service then fair enough, but best actually inspect them first or have someone else do it. 

 

You do not want the Workshop Manager or the Service Managers spiel unless they are a Qualified Technician, they gave the up selling training.

So they can get the Master Tech to talk to you, they can have a look at the Pads & Discs. 

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/484397-rear-brakes-after-19000-miles-very-crazy-place

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/462914-rear-brake-pads

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/472653-rear-discs

 

 

Edited 5 October, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

In the comment above 'Billywizzo' mentions a tool to rotate pistons as they contract.

In the video I posted in OP ... there seems no mention of this rotating .... anybody done the job and can comment from experience ?

 

My car does have electric parking brake  ...... so does that mean without an OBDELEVEN tool I cannot do the job ?

Edited 5 October, 20214 yr by Sargan

@Sargan are you going to be giving the rear discs and pads an inspection yourself?    There will be people getting cars serviced or in for warranty work and getting advisories on the likes of brakes.  They might see a car in stock they fancy and take the great trade in price offered.    If they see the car they trade in in a few weeks waiting for a new owner there is a high possibility it has the same discs and pads on as when traded in.      More motoring mags need to do more Mystery shopping / servicing.  

.

Edited 5 October, 20214 yr by Sargan

Did some more digging ... and have answered my own Q     (after tips here) .... you do need to have a diagnostic tool, which I don't have.

Not worth investing in one for this one-off job,

 

Well explained here

 

 

 

 So next step I suppose is see what price is from independent VAG specialists.

 

I did also find a method to release Pads (EPB) without OBDELEVEN  tool ......  anybody know if this is suitable method for Kodiaq ?

 

 

 

 

Have now got full kit of parts to do the job

 

2 pairs of pads

2 discs

4 x M12  Calliper fixing bolts

2 x M6 torx disc screw

Ceramic grease

Handbrake (EPB) motor kit     ( 2 x O ring 4 x screws)

 

If anybody here has done the job ..... how easy was it to retract the pistons ? ....

I will remove EPB motor & fully retract 

 

I need to retract piston, hoping to lever against disc ... but understand I need to rotate as the are pushed backwards - any tips ? ...... don't have retractor tool

I'm curious... how much did all that cost you?

 

Don't get me wrong - I'm exactly the same with my bike, I buy parts + tools and service / maintain / fix it myself rather than take it to a bike shop. But it's very rarely the parts that are the expensive bit, it's the labour. I reckon the amount of time it takes me to do a full service on my bike would make it somewhat impractical to run a business doing it... I'd have to charge half the cost of a decent bike each time 🤦‍♂️.

So far 

£79 for pads & discs

£16 for screws 

£1.20 for grease

£1.89 for triple square bit

 

So £98.09.     Less than 1/3rd of job in dealer

I agree Labour is high, but when ‘skilled’ mechanics advise it’s less than 2 Hrs … it’s hard to accept £240+ for the Labour.

 

I did contact 3 independents, 2 of which are VAG specialists for a quote …. 2 acknowledged, but never came back with a price, 3rd didn’t even reply.  
 

I service my boat trailer every year stripping brakes out, removing seals and bearings, replacing, repacking, adjusting as necessary.  So working on car brakes be a change.

Edited 12 October, 20214 yr by Sargan

You can do it with a car battery and two wires  Have seen You tubes of how it s done so do a bit of searching.Otherwise if someone near you has an OBDEleven there is an APP for retraction, resetting and testing.

Yes … seen the vids, also the method to remove motors and wind back

That was my Q, if this is done …is that enough, or do I have to push back piston as well.

OK ... finally weather allowed me to do this job ....

 

Had a loan of a code reader so retracted the EPB fine.

Armed with M7 allen socket,  calliper pins came out  OK, calliper removed and old pads out ....

Then the failure .... the M12 'Triple square XZN'  bolts ..

 

I bought a set of 'Triple square XZN'   sockets:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B086WKD65Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but the M12 is simply far too loose  .... fully inserted you can give almost  a 1/4 turn, only tips seem to be engagging, it will round out the bolts.

The set comes with M12 standard and a M12 long reach - and both the same  ... far too loose.

 

 

This video shows how loose ... and as posters have said these are fitted with high torque they would round out  https://youtu.be/bnIePKdD4-k

That is a brand new bolt - all 4 are the same.

 

 

This is even on the replacement 'new' bolts ...... so it looks like they are not M12 sockets... even though the thread measures as M12.

Reassembled for today .... may take bolts to a tools shop tomorrow to see if they have something that fits it ...... but the 2 x new M12 sockets I have are certainly too loose a fit.

 

Does anybody know if this is a 'VAG' specific tool ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 November, 20214 yr by Sargan

Were they actually down to 20%, and at what mileage?

They are worn and need replacing …. 30,000 miles.

 

hope somebody has some help on tool required

The Amazon link that you referred to does not state that they are "Triple Square" as far as I can see. I understand that there is avdufference between normal splines and Triple Square. You may need to buy some like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEXIVON-Triple-Premium-10-Piece-European/dp/B07M6884DY/ 

2 minutes ago, Liger1956 said:

The Amazon link that you referred to does not state that they are "Triple Square" as far as I can see. I understand that there is avdufference between normal splines and Triple Square. You may need to buy some like these https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEXIVON-Triple-Premium-10-Piece-European/dp/B07M6884DY/ 

.

Mr Liger's right - spline and triple square aren't the same.

.

Maybe I bought wrong set ...... to be 100% sure .... I need Triple Sqaure .,.. that correct?

Its not simple to get t his right, the link you gave for set above uses  'both terms ..... "XZN Triple Square Spline"

 

The following link 

 

or https://tinyurl.com/yk8u2bj9

 

Those the right item ? ........ want to avoid buying another set. 

 

Yup, you need a “multi-spline” socket.

I can find XZN Triple Square           XZN Triple Square Spline    or 14mm Spline

On 07/11/2021 at 12:23, Routemaster1461 said:

Were they actually down to 20%, and at what mileage?

Here is a pic of old pads alongside new ones … I would say their description was fair.       As at 35,000 miles

there was about 3mm undercut where pads make contacts to discs.

Edited 13 November, 20214 yr by Sargan

Other side completed today, only took about 45 mins this time.

All done.

Just as an fyi … for anyone else - the key steps.
Not the only way, but worked for me.

 

 

I used 3 special tools 

7mm Allen key socket

14mm XZN triple square socket

OBDII Code Reader

 

• Connect up battery charger to battery (important step)
• Release EPB
• Retract EPB with code reader 
• Jack car wheel up high (wheel about 10” off floor)
• Remove wheel
• Remove plastic end plugs from Calliper pins
• Unscrew & Calliper pins
• Push piston back fully by levering with a screwdriver between pads & disc.
• (No need for a retractor tool … simply push fully back)
• Lift off calliper and temporary tie up with cable tie to avoid straining brake line.
• Remove brake shoes
• Remove the 2 x Calliper fixing bolts ( technically they are screws) this was hardest part, I applied heat with a micro gas burner to heat up heads, in the hope it softened thread lock.  
• Take out the Torx screw that holds on disc.
• Screw in 1 x wheel screw … to avoid disc dropping out when it becomes free
• I applied dismantling fluid around where disc fits on central hub … then some suitable wallops with a hammer to remove 
• I cleaned area up with brake cleaner, removed any corrosion on hub face, and applied very thin coating of ceramic grease (used a brush to ensure very thin), also applied to ‘ears’’ on new brake pads, and the rear of pad where piston makes contact.
• Also sprayed rubber boot of piston with silicone spray.
• Cleaned new disc faces with brake cleaner … and fitted
• When fitting new Calliper frame bolts, I added Blue thread lock to the first 25mm.

 

• Redid all screws to correct torque.
• Release EPB with code reader
• Light short strokes on foot brake to reset pads.
• road test.
• check code reader for any alarms.