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Easiest Way To Disconnect Fuel Flap Solenoid?

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Hi

 

Is it possible to disconnect the fuel refill flap solenoid/actuator on a MK2 Skoda Superb estate without removing any panels or trim in the boot?

 

 

 

 

Edited by 2006edr

  • 2006edr changed the title to Easiest Way To Disconnect Fuel Flap Solenoid?

Have a look at this - 

Unfortunately if you want to disconnect to install a replacement actuator properly you do need to remove trim in the boot to gain access to the connector.  If you want a quick bodge then easiest to access the wiring from outside (via filler aperture) and cut the wire from the old actuator and then splice the wiring on new actuator to it using solder and glue lined heatshrink tubing or glue filled solder splices e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CAMWAY-Adhesive-Connector-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B07R5YM2QN.  The latter work very well but from my own experience you do need a decent variable temperature heat gun to get the solder to melt without damaging the outer tubing.

 

In my own case I never bothered, my locking fuel cap has now permanently failed unlocked and I'm happy the risk of anyone trying to siphon fuel or maliciously poison tank content is negligible.

  • Author
On 18/10/2021 at 15:44, ethel said:

This sounds like the infamous dead/stuck solenoid problem. I'm not sure whether it would cause a drain - I suspect that if the car senses that it's locked the doors and boot then it won't bother continuing to send power to energise the fuel filler, although if it does, maybe repeated unsuccessful attempts to pull the lock into place might cause battery problems?

 

If I recall correctly it was around £120 to get mine replaced but they are a weak point so I expect it'll likely do it again..

 

If you're going down the route of getting a locking filler cap it might be worth having the solenoid disconnected at the same time to negate the possibility of the battery drain you mention.

 

Hope you manage to sort it one way or another anyway. :thumbup:


D

 

3 minutes ago, DrCorbyLee said:

Have a look at this - 

Unfortunately if you want to disconnect to install a replacement actuator properly you do need to remove trim in the boot to gain access to the connector.  If you want a quick bodge then easiest to access the wiring from outside (via filler aperture) and cut the wire from the old actuator and then splice the wiring on new actuator to it using solder and glue lined heatshrink tubing or glue filled solder splices e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CAMWAY-Adhesive-Connector-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B07R5YM2QN.  The latter work very well but from my own experience you do need a decent variable temperature heat gun to get the solder to melt without damaging the outer tubing.

 

In my own case I never bothered, my locking fuel cap has now permanently failed unlocked and I'm happy the risk of anyone trying to siphon fuel or maliciously poison tank content is negligible.

 

Thanks for your response.

 

What about the other way around?

 

Is it possible to disconnect the actuator from the battery without removing the fuel flap housing on the outside of the car?

 

I possibly have a small parasitic drain. My fuel flap no longer locks tightly shut. In your opinion could a faulty solenoid, (or actuator) cause a parasitic drain?

 

Ah, had seen your other thread re parasitic drain.  I'd always assumed that the actuator latched onto open and closed positions and so didn't need power on permanently to hold it open or closed. But I maybe if the actuator isn't making it to full stroke it could carry on drawing current although that's just a guess as never stripped down to see how it works or seen an exploded diagram.

 

But if you want to try disconnecting then you could do this this from outside the car.  Very easy to remove the whole flap and filler assembly (one screw from recollection) and you can then gain access to wiring off the back of the actuator.  Could cut wires and make both ends safe and waterproof with glue lined heat shrink by pinching the the open end of tubing with pliers when hot to seal the end.  Then if that cures your battery issue you can still retrospectively splice in new actuator if you decide it's worth it to replace.

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