P2015 Intake Manifold Problem 2.0 TSI

[Shane115]

Hi everyone,

 

I know theres endless topics on this subject but I can't find anything relevant to whats happened here.

 

So I've had the notorious p2015 code on my dash for a few weeks after some research found the only option is to buy and install a new intake manifold.

 

So 2 days ago I've installed the new manifold and the EML has already come back on with the same p2015 code. I've tried disconnecting the battery for 30mins to try and do a full reset as I read codes could be stored but had no luck getting rid. The code will only clear with an obd reader but comes back after around 40 mins of driving. 

 

I just cant figuire out whats causing the problem? I thought the only cause had to be either the runner flaps, the actuator or the sensor for this code ,all 3 of which are brand new on this manifold. I've had a look at the wiring around the intake manifold, all of which looked fine. Is there anything else that can cause the p2015? Maybe somthing with the throttle body? A vaccum leak? 

 

I really want to get to the bottom of it as the car runs mint when the light is off but as soon as it reappears it starts misfiring, has a rough idle and obviously the unsightly EML.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks, Shane.

[TheClient]

Based on what you describe, the first 2 options to mind are 1) another faulty manifold (unlikely, is it genuine from a known source). 2) faulty corroded or shorted wiring at the manifold connection or further back.

 

Testing pins and wiring resistance could be a place to start. 

[Shane115]

It's not a genuine skoda manifold but it is a quality aftermarket manifold so seems unlikely that could be the problem. 

 

I will give testing the wiring a go as up to now I've only done a visual check. 

[Shane115]

So I've just checked the intake manifold solenoid which is working fine, I've also checked the wiring and connectors which I can access and they also seem to be working fine. 

 

I've recently thought that I purchased the intake manifold and the manifold sensor seperate. Could the sensor be located on the wrong part of the shaft that runs through the manifold. I remember seeing the sensor had a square female fitment which was mated onto a square shaft, maybe I've put the sensor on 90 degree out? 

 

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  

[bspman]

@Shane115 where abouts are you located? a VCDS scan may reveal a little bit more info on what's up.

[Shane115]

I'm in Sheffield S12 mate.

[TheClient]

On 27/10/2021 at 17:46, Shane115 said:

So I've just checked the intake manifold solenoid which is working fine, I've also checked the wiring and connectors which I can access and they also seem to be working fine. 

 

I've recently thought that I purchased the intake manifold and the manifold sensor seperate. Could the sensor be located on the wrong part of the shaft that runs through the manifold. I remember seeing the sensor had a square female fitment which was mated onto a square shaft, maybe I've put the sensor on 90 degree out? 

 

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  

There are plenty of posts on here where members have replaced with pattern parts only to need to replace again immediately.  

 

A quality aftermarket? Which manufacturer for the manifold and for the sensor acquired separately? 

 

If the sensor was not fitted and the square female pad was rotated before fitting then it would seem possible for it to misread. You should be able to test with a multimeter maybe fitted in car but to remove it is probably IM out again due to the mounting bolt clearances isn't it? 

[Mazzer]

Did you manage to fix the problem. I'm going through the same now. 

[Shane115]

Never got to bottom of it mate. I even had a garage I trust look and see if they could figure the problem out but to no avail. So I just have to live with a constant EML on the dash.

 

I did cure the misfire by using seafoam. I used a bottle in the fuel and crankcase then another bottle straight in the throttle body which made a huge difference. The car has much more torque in lower revs now. I also pulled back the intake manifold to look if the seafoam actually did anything and the valves were immaculate compared to before so would highly recommend on these direct injection engines. 

[Mazzer]

I bought a project tdi vrs with manifold issues. Like yourself I bought component pattern parts. They system is slightly different. However what I did was get a jum lead and disconnect both battery terminals. I then connected the positive and negative bat leads with the jump cable. 

 

I'm no expert but I wanted to be double sure I drained any capacitors/memory. I'd forgot about it and ended up doing this over night. 

 

I reconnected the battery in the morning. Another thing to note is that TPS sell the sensor and the vacuum solenoid now which would give you a bit of piece of mind. 

 

On my diesel coincidentally I had an auxillary pump code as well which I hadn't noticed stupidly as blinkered on the inlet manifold. 

 

I suspect its a calibration thing which may just need an unplug and plug at the right time..?

 

Again I'm no expert but in my diesel it worked. Did you remove the manifold yourself..? Is it hard..? 

[Shane115]

I've already tried disconnecting the battery overnight, which didn't work, and I'm not sure about the calibration thing. I would have thought after some driving it would calibrate itself but that's just a guess.

 

Yes, I've removed the manifold 3 times now. The first time was difficult as there is a hidden M10 bolt under the manifold which is very difficult to see and access which took me a good 25 mins to figure out and the only way to get to it is to remove the throttle body. The second and third time was much easier once you know where all the bolts are it only takes about 20 mins to whip off. 

[Guest]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K81W9eFPI-Q

[Mazzer]

Crikey that's good at only 20 mins.. How do you manage that. My eml came back on today so habing replaced only the solenoid I now need to decide on whether to by a new manifold or just the sensor as I note you can now by genuine inlet flap angle sensors. Are the injectors hard to remove...? 

[Mazzer]

Hi Shane, 

 

Have you got any tips or a lost of what I need to look for as I'm going to attempt myself. I did hear the injectors need to be removed which are easy to damage not sure how true that is. I'm going to get an ebay manifold and a genuine sensor. 

 

Any advice would be appreciated.. 

 

 

[Mazzer]

Hi Shane do you need to take the oil filter off.? 

[bspman]

21 hours ago, Mazzer said:

Hi Shane do you need to take the oil filter off.? 

 

For the intake manifold removal  on the 2.0 TSI - Yes, you should remove it. It's not impossible without removing it - but it is significantly easier. I just popped it back on after.

Edited 16 December, 2021 by bspman

[Mazzer]

Can I just ask having never removed an 'upside down' oil filter I'm assuming other than a bit of residual oil gravity has sent it all back down the sump..? 

[Mazzer]

Sorry just one other thing. I've watched a couple of you tube vids. It looks like some of the injectors may pull out too. Are they easy just to push back in..? 

 

I'm feeling brave and so may do the job myself that was all 

 

Many Thanks for your help. 

[Mazzer]

Well I'm going for it sometime this week.. I had a quick look yesterday the only bits that I'm concerned about is if a pullout an injector and the 3rd nut on the egr valve that sits around the back. 

 

If I'm carefull I'm assuming the injectors won't get pulledmout and in relation to the egr valve can I leave that in place. Not sure how to tackle that bit. Any help would be much appreciated...

[Mazzer]

I've just had a look this morning and the only other issue I can see is there are 2 pipes one a glossy rubber roughly 10mm and a silver pipe which I assume is fuel. Could I ask if.you can just undo these..? I assume they are high pressure ones..?

[bspman]

So sorry - I've not really been checking forums for a while - if you @ me then I'll likely respond a bit faster

 

On 16/12/2021 at 18:37, Mazzer said:

Can I just ask having never removed an 'upside down' oil filter I'm assuming other than a bit of residual oil gravity has sent it all back down the sump..? 

 

There may be some oil contained... didn't tilt it - kept it upright, no drips.

 

On 16/12/2021 at 18:49, Mazzer said:

Sorry just one other thing. I've watched a couple of you tube vids. It looks like some of the injectors may pull out too. Are they easy just to push back in..? 

 

I'm feeling brave and so may do the job myself that was all 

 

Many Thanks for your help. 

 

If injectors come out - you'll need the injector seal kit - since they're off - if you can get them cheaply enough, may be worth replacing.

 

6 hours ago, Mazzer said:

Well I'm going for it sometime this week.. I had a quick look yesterday the only bits that I'm concerned about is if a pullout an injector and the 3rd nut on the egr valve that sits around the back. 

 

If I'm carefull I'm assuming the injectors won't get pulledmout and in relation to the egr valve can I leave that in place. Not sure how to tackle that bit. Any help would be much appreciated...

 

You're most likely going to pull injectors. Assume this is an eventuality.

 

1 hour ago, Mazzer said:

I've just had a look this morning and the only other issue I can see is there are 2 pipes one a glossy rubber roughly 10mm and a silver pipe which I assume is fuel. Could I ask if.you can just undo these..? I assume they are high pressure ones..?

 

There will be a bit of spray - would disconnect your battery to stop the pump priming but you're going to get some fuel coming out so make sure you have some shop rags. 

 

Not sure on the glossy rubber pipe though.

 

[Mazzer]

Thanks for all your help I'm a bit nervous about the injectors pulling out as I don't have the tool or is it just replacing the outer seals...?

 

The glossy pipe just sits next to the chrome metallic fuel pipe as it decends between 2 of the manifold inlets

[bspman]

There are washers at both the fuel rail side and a seal at the engine side that need replacement. I have just uploaded all my photos but need to make a thread on what I did.

Edited 30 December, 2021 by bspman