Have a 2005 fab Vrs which is struggling to start first thing takes a few cranks to start after that it’s fine doesn’t sound lumpy or anything. Starts on the button after the first start ie when warm or a few mins later after turning car off from first start any ideas folks glow plugs? 

Yeah, possibly glow plugs.

Aye I'd have thought the same. Maybe try changing them and seeing where that takes you. Process of elimination and so forth.

39 minutes ago, Louisking1 said:

any ideas folks glow plugs?

Maybe? Does it blow white smoke that smells of diesel on a cold start?

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

Maybe? Does it blow white smoke that smells of diesel on a cold start?

 
It smokes the odd time when first start up whitish black smoke lol

10 hours ago, Louisking1 said:

 
It smokes the odd time when first start up whitish black smoke lol

Could well be glow plugs then; maybe try a resistance test.

The thing is, even with knackered glow plugs, the PD's start quickly.

 

I had a glow plug snap off in the head on my black vRS, it snapped as I was changing them due to it throwing the EML on the dash. It stayed snapped in the head for 80,000 miles and even when we had the real bad winter in 2018 (i think), it would start fine in -7c temps. It coughed once then ran clean all day. 

 

If you do identify a failing plug, be very careful about trying to remove them, especially if you have no dash lights on yet, as they like to stay where they are, despite all the tricks in the book about taking them out of a red hot engine etc. 

Check that there is voltage when 1st turned on - this is possible using a voltmeter which you can view from the inside by opening bonnet, connect positive lead to glow plug terminal and earth lead to battery negative or even engine and placing meter where visible. This would confirm if power being supplied.

 Also possible to remove glowplug supply cable, connect a meter cable to thread where supply was and other cable to engine then select continuity test on meter. On mine I use the buzzer option on meter - no buzz suggests open circuit/burned out plug. Do this on each glowplug and remember to NOT turn ignition on.

 As above, if removing use extreme care as they can get stuck in position with carbon at which point you may be able to hear them squeek as you turn them. Even if they start unscrewing, they can still tighten up when partly out. Bad starting - should only be in extremelly cold weather - is worse that having to chance what happens if you have a snapped glowplug in the head.

3 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

Check that there is voltage when 1st turned on - this is possible using a voltmeter which you can view from the inside by opening bonnet, connect positive lead to glow plug terminal and earth lead to battery negative or even engine and placing meter where visible. This would confirm if power being supplied.

 Also possible to remove glowplug supply cable, connect a meter cable to thread where supply was and other cable to engine then select continuity test on meter. On mine I use the buzzer option on meter - no buzz suggests open circuit/burned out plug. Do this on each glowplug and remember to NOT turn ignition on.

 As above, if removing use extreme care as they can get stuck in position with carbon at which point you may be able to hear them squeek as you turn them. Even if they start unscrewing, they can still tighten up when partly out. Bad starting - should only be in extremelly cold weather - is worse that having to chance what happens if you have a snapped glowplug in the head.

I’ll get the multi meter out and test them cheers I’m sort of thinking now if it was glow plugs it would be doing it every time but only does it first start up me thinks it might not be glow plugs now lol

4 hours ago, Lofty said:

The thing is, even with knackered glow plugs, the PD's start quickly.

 

I had a glow plug snap off in the head on my black vRS, it snapped as I was changing them due to it throwing the EML on the dash. It stayed snapped in the head for 80,000 miles and even when we had the real bad winter in 2018 (i think), it would start fine in -7c temps. It coughed once then ran clean all day. 

 

If you do identify a failing plug, be very careful about trying to remove them, especially if you have no dash lights on yet, as they like to stay where they are, despite all the tricks in the book about taking them out of a red hot engine etc. 

yeah thinking that to it might not be glow plugs if it was it would be doing every start not just the first start of the day 

7 hours ago, Louisking1 said:

I’ll get the multi meter out and test them cheers I’m sort of thinking now if it was glow plugs it would be doing it every time but only does it first start up me thinks it might not be glow plugs now lol

 

7 hours ago, Louisking1 said:

yeah thinking that to it might not be glow plugs if it was it would be doing every start not just the first start of the day 

Could still be the plugs. Could also be cam timing. Plugs don't really contribute much when the engine is warmer. Cam timing can be critical for providing grunt but prove troublesome in colder times. If it's retarded a touch that might be contributing. Injector problem might also cause this sort of thing.

6 hours ago, vindaloo said:

 

Could still be the plugs. Could also be cam timing. Plugs don't really contribute much when the engine is warmer. Cam timing can be critical for providing grunt but prove troublesome in colder times. If it's retarded a touch that might be contributing. Injector problem might also cause this sort of thing.

I replaced the timing belt myself few month ago now and was checked on vcds torsion values set to 0.0 and when reved it goes to -0.6

Might have to check the battery to with it being the first initial start of the day it’s struggling then it’s fine for the rest of the day. the alternator would be giving it the juice that would be needed during the first start up and giving it the extra volts it’s needed. For the rest of the day just another thought I’m thinking lol

Could also be fuel returning to tank overnight replaced by air.

 

Try switching the ignition on several times without cranking which will run the in-tank pump.

 

Then crank the engine on the 3rd turn of the key.

5 hours ago, PipH said:

Could also be fuel returning to tank overnight replaced by air.

 

Try switching the ignition on several times without cranking which will run the in-tank pump.

 

Then crank the engine on the 3rd turn of the key.

Will give that ago funny enough I have had another issue noticed it when I first got it when the fuel level gets low around 55 miles left basically when the light comes on the fuel needle goes abit mad on cluster moves up and down while beeping. But stops and Dosent do it  if u keep it topped up with diesel lol might be a pump issue aswell will give it a gd once over soon