Sorry I misread both NS doors not working for both rear doors.

 

And I can't even blame drink!!!!

17 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Sorry I misread both NS doors not working for both rear doors.

 

And I can't even blame drink!!!!

Both drivers side doors are working. I never noticed what effect the broken wire to the drivers door central locking switch had 🤔 as i use the key remote. All the doors were working when I bought the car back in September.

I've no longer got a garage to work in so at the mercy of the weather. There was a lull in the weather this morning the wind dropped and briefly stopped raining so went out and took the nearside front passenger door card off and cut the connector off so I can replace all the cables. As with drivers door 7 damaged cables one of which was broken. Which is the main earth to the door control module

Finally all the door functions for the nearside doors are now restored  😊

 

I've replaced a section of around 200mm of each of the cables even though not all of them were damaged I figured it was likely it might not be long before they did as the insulation was stiff and hard.

 

After soldering the 29 amp earth and positive cables I decided not to use anymore heat shrink solder sleeve connectors at the plug end as they stiffen up the cables by increasing the insulation thickness which I didn't think was a good idea in the door hinge area where the cables are constantly flexing. So I soldered the remaining 14amp, 11amp and 7amp wires and used thinner heat shrink.

Edited 22 February, 20224 yr by Derbyshirebod

On 19/02/2022 at 21:20, Derbyshirebod said:

I've still got the same issue with both N/S doors not working. Though have now found the earth cable to the N/S front door has broken. Can also see the positive cable insulation is cracked. I can understand why none of the door functions aren't working but why would that affect all the rear door functions? I've not checked the wiring for that door yet. It would be good to have sight of detailec wiring diagrams.

Would I be right in thinking that:

 

- thick brown cable = common earth return.

- thick red cable = common 12 supply.

 

Alan

Yes.

 

On 22/02/2022 at 19:46, Derbyshirebod said:

Finally all the door functions for the nearside doors are now restored  😊

 

I've replaced a section of around 200mm of each of the cables even though not all of them were damaged I figured it was likely it might not be long before they did as the insulation was stiff and hard.

 

After soldering the 29 amp earth and positive cables I decided not to use anymore heat shrink solder sleeve connectors at the plug end as they stiffen up the cables by increasing the insulation thickness which I didn't think was a good idea in the door hinge area where the cables are constantly flexing. So I soldered the remaining 14amp, 11amp and 7amp wires and used thinner heat shrink.

 

Ah! Now I understand: you just changed the wires, and not the yellow connector that fits onto the chassis inside the door jamb, hence having to do a bit more soldering there. The patch kit I've ordered (it should be here today) comes with a new connector block and the wires already have the barbed pins fitted, so I can make up the loom ready before pulling the bare ends through to the door space for soldering there.

 

Thank you for posting the above, it makes everything much clearer.

 

Alan

2 hours ago, Othen said:

Would I be right in thinking that:

 

- thick brown cable = common earth return.

- thick red cable = common 12 supply.

 

Alan

Yes you're right.

 

But what I couldn't/ haven't figured out is why the broken  front door common earth stopped the rear N/S rear door functions working. I would have thought the doors would have had their own negative feed. Which is why I was looking for wiring diagrams when I 1st got into this.

 

The two large + - feed wires go to the door control modules which both the front doors have. So they must also control the rear doors. I don't know if the rear doors also have control modules as I've not had the door cards YET! As I mentioned in your thread I know at least one of the rear doors has wires with cracked insulation.

 

The Haynes online manual I bought has very little wiring information other than the locations of all the earthing points.

I think the answer is that the front door modules are data-connected to/by the convenience CANbus; but the rear door window modules are only connected by single wire LIN bus to their respective/same-side front door modules. So although the rear may have all its wiring intact, if its same-side companion front door module isn't operational, it won't get command info from anywhere central.

The door wiring patch kit arrived during last week (the courier was inexplicably slow). It looks like it is very well thought out and should be easy to use:

 

 

… I’ll get round to fitting this soon - although there seems to be no imperative at the mo, the single wire fix I carried out previously is working well.

 

Alan