Hi,

On it's last service (50,000 miles) my '01 Octavia RS had two fault codes logged: P1297 and P1137. I was told by the garage that these were "intermittent faults" in the lambda sensor and/or throttle body.

No dashboard warning lights have been on, although it has been suffering from an intermittent loss of power, slight surging, and rough/irregular idling (especially from cold).

Firstly - I'm assuming the P.... codes are the "Diagnostic Trouble Codes" reported by VAG-COM? And that these codes indicate VAG Fault Code 17705 - "Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve"?

So... from searching the site, I'm thinking my problem is actually the one explained in detail in this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/fault-codes-17705-17545-a/7798/

In which case, I should be thinking of getting the pipe between the turbo and intercooler replaced (part no 06A 145 790C?), and possibly mention "Technical Bulletin no. 56" to the garage, as this repair should be described in that bulletin?

Would appreciate any thoughts, especially if I'm likely to be barking up the wrong tree - I'm not clear on the connections between the DTC codes (starting with P...) and the 5-digit fault codes, and am wondering why the garage specifically referred to the lambda sensor and throttle body as possible faults?

Thanks,

David.

When using VAG-COM, the 17705 error code suggests a pressure drop between the throttle body and somewhere I can remember. VAG-COM's suggestion is to check the DV. However this is the code I fixed by changing the pipe you've read about.

This thread may also be of interest:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/where-pipe/51329/

Many of us have solved the 17705 by changing that pipe so I'd change that first before looking at anything else.

Replacing the pipe didn't and hasn't fixed my problem. Every service the fault code gets removed, and every next service it is there again. Incredibly hard to find the real culprit without replacing every single pipe

Replacing the pipe didn't and hasn't fixed my problem. Every service the fault code gets removed, and every next service it is there again. Incredibly hard to find the real culprit without replacing every single pipe

Sounds like you need a new car, Q

Don't start... Payday doesn't come quick enough these days :(

I too have this fault code. My symptoms are this: poor starting, esp. when cold, occasional loss of turbo solved by restart.

I thought I'd post as I've noticed this: When it was cold it seemed it was doing this a lot, requiring a stop and restart to get the turbo qorking again. The garage replaced the DV, but the problem persisted. It would happen 5-10 times a week. Also, the turbo only ever stopped working within the first few minutes of starting. I've never had it lose boost during a longer journey, so it seems to be a "starting" thing.

Since it has got a bit (just a bit!) warmer, I have only had to stop and restart for the turbo twice.

Does this sound familiar to anyone else who had this problem?

The garage said that it needed a new turbo, but I'm not paying out nearly £1000 on the basis of them saying "We think it might be the turbo", esp. given how many people seem to have problems with this fault and how difficult it seems to be to resolve.

Anyway, I just wondered if my particular symptoms sound familiar to anyone.

Was thniking about booking into a Seat garage to give them a crack at it.

Cheers.

I too have this fault code. My symptoms are this: poor starting, esp. when cold, occasional loss of turbo solved by restart.

I thought I'd post as I've noticed this: When it was cold it seemed it was doing this a lot, requiring a stop and restart to get the turbo qorking again. The garage replaced the DV, but the problem persisted. It would happen 5-10 times a week. Also, the turbo only ever stopped working within the first few minutes of starting. I've never had it lose boost during a longer journey, so it seems to be a "starting" thing.

Since it has got a bit (just a bit!) warmer, I have only had to stop and restart for the turbo twice.

Does this sound familiar to anyone else who had this problem?

The garage said that it needed a new turbo, but I'm not paying out nearly

I too have this fault code. My symptoms are this: poor starting, esp. when cold, occasional loss of turbo solved by restart.

I thought I'd post as I've noticed this: When it was cold it seemed it was doing this a lot, requiring a stop and restart to get the turbo qorking again. The garage replaced the DV, but the problem persisted. It would happen 5-10 times a week. Also, the turbo only ever stopped working within the first few minutes of starting. I've never had it lose boost during a longer journey, so it seems to be a "starting" thing.

Since it has got a bit (just a bit!) warmer, I have only had to stop and restart for the turbo twice.

Does this sound familiar to anyone else who had this problem?

The garage said that it needed a new turbo, but I'm not paying out nearly

just had mine fixed, bloody 17705!!! what it was, was the hose that connects to the turbo (part num at top i think) but it was £30 for VAGCOM to find the problem, and £100 to fix it, just labour and the hose. The guy is fully training by Skoda, and said its sometimes had to spot, but the hose comes loose sometimes and causes the problem.

The car is now perfect loadsa boost now!!

Thanks for the replys - given that the dump valve has already been replaced on a previous service I think I'll get the pipe replaced on it's next garage visit... the front brake discs and pads are going to need replacing soon. If the pipe only costs ~

Throttle valves and air temp sensors can also cause the 17705 fault.

'P' codes by the way are just a generic ident given to the fault. 17705 will be a VAG code but the 'P' code will be the same regardless of make etc.

and rough/irregular idling (especially from cold).

Throttle body clean sorted this on mine.

One thing to look for is that if the hose has been leaking there may well be a fine mist of oil its' outside.

there was oil on mine!!!

But no oil on mine (yet changing it solved the problem)

Are there any seals or clips associated with this modified pressure pipe which need changing or can the originals be used?

The bottom is secured with a jubilee clip which, on my car was re-usable but a little rusty.

The top is secured with a spring clip/retainer that can be reused.

The bottom has no seals and slides over the metal pipe coming from the intercooler.

The top has a seal on the outside of the part that should not be reused. The seal is ready fitted to the pipe and is the bit that has been re-designed by VAG. previously an O'ring it is now a double lip seal.

The whole pipe comes with a heat sheild cover on it that can be removed for fitting (held on with 3 "poppers" down the side).

In summary - order the part number above and you'll get all you need to do the job.

Thanks for very comprehensive reply, Phil. I don't think it leaves room for any more questions from me about that pipe!

If you'll excuse me for bumping this thread again... just had the car in to have the air pipe replaced. And performance is back up to scratch

No flat-spots, idling and cold-starts are nice and smooth, and fuel economy is looking a little better. So it appears to have fixed the problem!

On my previous visit the garage suggested all manner of other things - N71 solenoid, throttle body replacement, lambda probe replacement etc. Surprised they didn't think of checking the pipes. Maybe they just gave it a quick visual once-over, and if there isn't anything obviously flapping loose they assume it's ok...

Anyway - hope this and the associated threads are a help to anyone else with similar symptoms :-)

David.