Hello friends, I want to ask you something, this is a Fabia vrs 2006 1.9 130 hp, I changed the oil in the transmission, I put 75 w 90, since I changed the transmission, it became very rigid, especially when the car is cold, it was not like that before, now I do not know which oil to put some call 75 w 80 or 75 if someone has no experience

From what I can see, that's the right spec. There's 2 different VAG part numbers for the oil. G005100A1 for up to 2005 and G052157a2 for after that date.

 

Is there a chance you could have over filled it?

...or underfilled it perhaps?

 

What prompted you to change the oil, was there an issue you hoped would be fixed by doing it?

6 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

From what I can see, that's the right spec. There's 2 different VAG part numbers for the oil. G005100A1 for up to 2005 and G052157a2 for after that date.

 

Is there a chance you could have over filled it?

2.3 liters so I put. I threw away the old oil, otherwise I would have returned it, but I found it strange, it was much rarer than this now

That's the right amount to fill the box from empty, but on a change, you never truly get all the old stuff out.

 

10 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

...or underfilled it perhaps?

 

What prompted you to change the oil, was there an issue you hoped would be fixed by doing it?

I changed luk rep set DMF AND EVERYTHING WAS GOOD BUT THEY TOLD ME TO CHANGE THE OIL AND SINCE THEN I HAD A PROBLEM

I vaguely remember from years gone by that people used to have this problem with the VRS gearbox when they needlessly and pointlessly changed the oil to aftermarket 75/90, did you use genuine VW oil, I seem to recall that the consensus was that Fuchs synthetic 75/90 was the only alternative that worked like the OEM oil.

 

2 minutes ago, Ivicagric said:

I changed luk rep set DMF AND EVERYTHING WAS GOOD BUT THEY TOLD ME TO CHANGE THE OIL AND SINCE THEN I HAD A PROBLEM

 

Who is "they" please?

Edited 24 April, 20224 yr by sepulchrave

11 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

That's the right amount to fill the box from empty, but on a change, you never truly get all the old stuff out.

 

I will try, I will drop it, I will put less

I've got to admit I'm not sure how you set the level on these boxes or if it's a hot or cold level.

 

 

There's a level plug you remove, once oil stops running out of it, it's correct. However, having a few ml more than 2.3L will make no difference whatsoever since the gearbox works on splash lubrication.

9 minutes ago, StevesTruck said:

I've got to admit I'm not sure how you set the level on these boxes or if it's a hot or cold level.

 

 

I do not know that the mechanic does not understand much

1 hour ago, Ivicagric said:

I changed the oil in the transmission, I put 75 w 90

From which manufacturer, and was it a mineral, semi synthetic or fully synthetic oil?

2 hours ago, KenONeill said:

From which manufacturer, and was it a mineral, semi synthetic or fully synthetic oil?

 fully synthetic

Were any other change(s) or adjustment(s) made at the same time as the oil change (as this would more likely be a possible cause)?

 

"Fully synthetic" with many oils is is a more of a marketing term than technical description but a good appropriate oil is a good appropriate oil regardless of how it is termed.

 

A hot thorough oil replacement can have noticeable improvement and perhaps helps things a bit and even the more usual quick cold (more partial) change may give a noticeable improvement and help a bit but unless a totally inappropriate oil has been put in I cannot see things suddenly becoming very rigid.

I have made quite a few gearbox and axle oil changes on my old cars, and on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, and they have made noticeable improvements, some very noticeable improvements and others slight but improvement.

 

VW don't blend oil AFAIK but their engineers and sales departments may well come up with, for many and various reasons, oil specifications, to perhaps cover shortfalls in design and build of their products (mass production brings lots of compromises) and then perhaps alter the specifications from real world use highlighting expected and unexpected issues and restricting the choice of oils has commercial benefits for the car manufacturer.  Been the same for decades.

 

13 hours ago, Ivicagric said:

 fully synthetic

That could be the issue then. It does depend on the specific manufacturer though, which is why I asked.

On 24/04/2022 at 21:22, StevesTruck said:

7 hours ago, KenONeill said:

That could be the issue then. It does depend on the specific manufacturer though, which is why I asked.

The thing is that while the car is cold there is a problem with the gearbox as soon as it heats up everything is fine

 

22 minutes ago, Ivicagric said:

The thing is that while the car is cold there is a problem with the gearbox as soon as it heats up everything is fine

Yes this is why car manufacturers test their cars in very hot and cold climates and weather.

 

A good quality appropriate oil will cover the heat range better working well at both ends.

 

Sometimes different blends of oils are used on gearboxes that are more awkward at cold starts and cold weather but unless you say differently I do not think the temperatures in Macedonia are a lot different to the UK.  The oil choice can improve things but not to any great extent and will not repair faulty/bad/broken mechanicals/electrics/electronics inside or outside the gearbox.  Even with a very poor quality oil the gear lever shifting should be no more than perhaps a little stiff when cold still easily useable if not super smooth.

 

The temperature can have effects on mechanicals and the lovely computers - BUT you have not replied to my or Ken's  or my question so we are stuck on the oil which may not be the problem, many other things might be the problem instead.  If your mechanic does not know what he is doing then go to one that does.

 

Edited 25 April, 20224 yr by nta16
spelling