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YETI 140 MPG

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Hello all, just got myself a Yeti 140, I’ve always loved the ‘alternative’ styling and my previous cat was a Seat Leon 150. Same engine but I was getting 60mpg in that but struggling to get much over 40mpg with the Yeti, has the 4x4 but don’t think it’s that. I think it’s the software (map). Has anyone ever has any success changing these to get decent mpg?  Or perhaps any other tips, car drives well loads of torque etc many thanks. 

4x4 will make a difference but the biggest difference will be the shape of the Yeti, aerodynamic as a brick, but I would not have it any other way for the convenience.

  • Author

Thanks I know but this is at relatively slow speeds I think it’s something else personally 

Has it had the 'emissions fix'?   My 150 TDI averages c.40 mpg but it is mapped to 185 bhp and I drive it quite hard.  

I struggled to get 40mpg from mine (also a 4x4) and it could not pull the skin off a rice pudding, removing and declagging the throttle valve made a vast difference and I immediately gained 5-10mpg on the same regular journeys.

 

Since then I have fitted an EGR emulator to prevent the build up of clag, had it remapped to a supposed 184hp and finally quite recently had the emissions fix rolled back, the latter has made the biggest difference of all and probably negates the need for the EGR emulator.

 

Its hard to give an average MPG now as my journey profiles have changed so much and I am frequently doing 500 mile autoroute runs towing heavily (over)loaded trailers but even on them the economy has increased significantly, on 20km B road journeys where I initially struggled to exceed 40mpg I now get 55mpg all day long and often exceed 60mpg which I never thought I would get with a high flat fronted brick with a part time 4x4 system.

 

The car had 79K miles on it when I declagged it, it has now done 113K, the emissions rollback has made a big difference to the MPG because (I believe) it is no longer wasting fuel doing frequent regens, before it would regen on calculated figures and ignore the actual readings (always very low thanks to no EGR) and passive regenerations, it was regenning every 120km but worst of all my 20 minute cross country commute was not quite long enough to warm up and complete so the fans were running every time i stopped and every journey tried another regen, and this straight after I had towed a massive heavy trailer for 500 miles & the measured soot was zero.

 

I had the fix removed a few months ago and this week was the first time I heard the fans signifying a failed regen, it has done precisely 1000kms since the last one plus the few extra while it was trying, I have been regularly checking the kms since last regen using VCDS, now I am convinced that it regens after exactly 1000kms whether it needs it or not.

 

I forgot to say that it is now almost as economical on short 4km return journeys into town and back as it is on a run.

Edited by J.R.

  • Author

This is a great post just what I was looking for and believed to be the case. I’ve just checked and the E189 update has been done on my car. 
 

Was it easy to find a tuner to reverse the update?

For information I never had the “fix” on my 140 4x4 owned from new and now showing 73000 miles. Summer time mpg averages about 49 around locally, and a recent 400 mile trip down the A1 averaging 65 mph returned 57mpg.

I only use branded fuel, not supermarket, and have had no EGR problems.

Edited by TR250man

  • Author

Thanks @TR250man yes that's better than I'm getting and I'm trying quite hard to get the MPG going to contact some tuning companies to see if I can get the 'fix' reversed.

Declag the throttle valve (and intake tract if necessary) before doing anything else, then you can establish a baseline before you entrust your vehicle to an unknown adolescent with a laptop, you really have no idea of what software they might load or even if they have done anything.

 

Hopefully someone will respond with how to check the software revision number and its applicability and then I can post what mine is now.

9 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Hopefully someone will respond with how to check the software revision number and its applicability and then I can post what mine is now.

 

Using for example VCDS:

 

Address 01: Engine (J623-DBKA)       Labels:. 04L-907-309-V1.clb
   Part No SW: 04L 906 026 CA    HW: 04L 907 309 R
   Component: R4 1,6L EDC   H21 1662  
   Revision: B5H21---    CVN: 187943B7
   Coding: 01190032032501094000
   Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00063
   ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI01104L906026CA 002004
   ROD: EV_ECM16TDI01104L906026CA_002.rod
   VCID: 6BD1B89282B170D70A-803E
   VINID: 91D49B5C77950D70000C50C31858D48C91

 

 

This shows us the Part No SW, then you read the last 4 digits from the Component line

 

 

 

If you then search the flash file database you will now be able to locate the exact flash filename and then read the versions from the filenames too that are available.

 

   FL_04L906026CA_1662__V001.frf

   FL_04L906026CA_2023__V001.frf

   FL_04L906026CA_3126__V001.frf

Thanks, that was exactly what I needed.

 

How do you search a flash file database, where is it and what should one be looking for?

 

That said I am very happy with mine now, it is now doing what those nice emission cheating VAG engineers intended it to do!

5 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Thanks, that was exactly what I needed.

 

How do you search a flash file database, where is it and what should one be looking for?

 

That said I am very happy with mine now, it is now doing what those nice emission cheating VAG engineers intended it to do!

You can use this site to lookup what flash files are available

 

https://vag-flashinfo.de/
 

Bonus is, you can upload your VCDS full vehicle scan and it will parse all the modules fitted and give you a full list of all that are available

Skoda

Part Version File type Additional info
FL_04L906026CA 2023 frf __V001
3126

SEAT

Part Version File type Additional info
FL_04L906026CA 2023 frf __V001
3126

Volkswagen

Part Version File type Additional info
FL_04L906026CA 1662 frf __V001
14 minutes ago, J.R. said:

How do you search a flash file database, where is it and what should one be looking for?

 

These are just examples that exist

 

03C906016C__3548.sgo

03C906016C__8656.sgo

03C906016C__9970.sgo

 

Most of the dieselgate fixes "jumped" the version to 9970+
So maybe you had 9970 installed before visiting tuner and now have 8656 after leaving.

 

Again just example number grabbed at random.

Thankyou again 👍

On 11/07/2022 at 21:21, Dave-Yeti said:

Hello all, just got myself a Yeti 140, I’ve always loved the ‘alternative’ styling and my previous cat was a Seat Leon 150. Same engine but I was getting 60mpg in that but struggling to get much over 40mpg with the Yeti, has the 4x4 but don’t think it’s that. I think it’s the software (map). Has anyone ever has any success changing these to get decent mpg?  Or perhaps any other tips, car drives well loads of torque etc many thanks. 

I run a 140 for just under 80000 miles. It did have the fix, but I then had a shark remap which transformed drivability, and from memory didn't make a huge difference to MPG:thumbup:

 

I still miss that car!

 

Please see link below for detailed info on MPG:

 

Fuelly

 

392891305_Screenshot_2022-07-19-12-18-36-1772.thumb.jpeg.382cf80067c4ceef939ab5adedabcb64.jpeg

 

 

I was lucky enough to be able to directly compare / own a remapped 140 with a standard 170 and can confirm the remapped 140 was a more pleasant drive.

 

The specialist I used to service my car was of the opinion the 170 engine was more suited to DSG, rather than manual.

 

The remapped 140 just seemed more responsive in every day driving.

 

I did also own a 110 manual (2WD) which was 10% more fuel efficient than the mapped 140, but was a little sluggish on the open road.

2 hours ago, pinkpanther said:

 

The remapped 140 just seemed more responsive in every day driving.

 

 

The 140 has a smaller turbo than the 170, so it spools up more quickly.  

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

Update on this one. I have now had the emissions roll back done and the engine remapped. Still not getting the economy I was looking for in the roll back I'd say it's possibly 5% better probably the remap. When going back to the mapper he said they have had some success with fuel filter changes and I'm going to try the throttle body clean see if that helps. Getting mid 40's around town with a bit of mixed roads.

The thread title "YETI 140 MPG" sounds pretty good to me!!!!

 

You should definitely have done the throttle body clean before the remap, if its clagged not only will you get more MPG but a lot more power, the latter will certainly negate the former at least initially before the novelty wears off and you start driving for economy again.

Edited by J.R.

Reading this topic makes me wonder if I am the only person who has no problems at all with the emissions fix (on a 170,) finding it has perfectly adequate power for towing a 1300Kg MTPLM caravan, and returning an indicated 50mpg (around a true 47mpg) fuel consumption during normal use. I have always fed it with Vpower / Ultimate and have had no (perhaps I am tempting fate here) problems with excessive regens or throttle valve 'clagging.' Admittedly it has done a relatively low mileage - below 80,000 miles - so it may be early to tell if related issues will arise further down the line.

 

I am sure I will 'shot down' by some on here who have different views, but we are all entitled to our own; for my part I have not seen the justification for the expense of removing the fix or re-mapping.

 

Each to their own, and enjoy your Yetis - they are great cars.

@Trevor M The obvious thing reading the thread is that it is about a 140 TDI and not 170's.  Apples and pears. 

2 hours ago, Trevor M said:

have had no (perhaps I am tempting fate here) problems with excessive regens or throttle valve 'clagging.'

 

Have you ever inspected it or are you taking the lack of problems to indicate that all is well?

 

You really should not wait until the throttle valve becomes obstructed and the engine throws a fault code and gose into limp mode or the engine rattling like a pig on shutdown, you risk the plastic gears in the valve stripping or a garage simply making you pay for a new one rather than cleaning the old.

 

At 80K you definitely should have a look, a lot of EGR gases will have passed through the intake tract, while you are looking you can adapt the spigot to turn it into the airstream to reduce further carbon build up.

Thanks J.R. - I had been considering doing this; as it is almost due for its next major service of timing belt /water pump / haldexservice / oil change etc., I will ensure the throttle valve is checked at the same time. Last time I checked it had no fault codes shown by VCDS, so is doing well for its age (2013 Elegance model,) although has previously had one for air flaps which needed the 'reset operation.'

If you google some of the photographs you will be very shocked, I was with mine and there are many far far worse.

 

I would not trust any main dealer to do the check and even less to clean the valve, most garages would refuse on the basis that it may break while doing so (unlikely unless they are even more careless than usual) but the real reason is why get their hands dirty when they can make more money by insisting they fit a shiny clean new one.

 

Once again if you want a job doing well, or even doing at all its best to DIY.

Edited by J.R.

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