2010 2.0 TDI 170 Temperature control flap motors - climate control problem

[StrictlyConfidential]

Hi,

 

Can someone confirm if I have duff flap control motors?

 

The issue with the car is temperature control. When it is set at LO it blows very cold air, when set at 18 a very mild cold air but anything above 19 it just blasts full heat when the cars engine has warmed up.

 

Both left and right side are doing that even in dual mode. I already done a calibration, but no effect whatsoever.

 

I took apart the glovebox and the airbag on the drivers side to observe what the motors do when I adjust the temperature. When setting on LO the operating arm moves all the way back, when setting at 18 it moves significantly. Adjusting to 19>20>21>22 the arm moves like a few mm at a time and after that going 23>24>25 and so on it doesn't move at all. Both motors behave like this. Can shoot a video if needed.

 

Scanned with OBDELEVEN, no faults found.

 

 

[Snapper1725]

Watch the live data readings on temperatures and flap positions. 
I basically had the dash stripped, operating and watching the flaps to see how it all works. 
I kept getting defroster flap stuck fault every now and then but it was working fine

Edited 8 February, 2023 by Snapper1725

[StrictlyConfidential]

Air quality sensor failure has shown up now.

 

Can it imoact temperature control? 

[Snapper1725]

My issue was my side ( drivers started blowing cold), thought wife altered temperature but hadn’t.

absolutely done my head in, basically had dash stripped out like yourself.

turned out to be flap motor on passenger side, and that was a bit of a gamble after a lot of swearing and banging my head seemed to cure fault

[Snapper1725]

1 hour ago, StrictlyConfidential said:

Air quality sensor failure has shown up now.

 

Can it imoact temperature control? 

It’s got 4 temperature sensors in the ductings and another near the knee airbag. Think it’s something to do with air con

[Snapper1725]

This is the one I replaced 

if you stretch the picture open you can see the open ducting above, the grey part is a temp sensor. You have one the other side in same place

the other two are in each side dash vents ( them four are the same)

the other is by the clutch pedal (RHD) area

 

Edited 8 February, 2023 by Snapper1725

[StrictlyConfidential]

That's the one.

 

I'm only wondering whether it will the flap motor that's misbehaving here.

 

Ordered a the one for the passenger side from ebay. Original used for £13. Just to test to see what it's doing. No big loss if it doesn't fix it.

[Snapper1725]

This is one point I was at trying to figure it out. Became good at stripping the dash out in no time to try and figure out how it all worked while trying to figure out what the hell was wrong.

Had me driven round the twist and obsessed with feeling the vents for temp differences 😤😤

[Smart Pro]

I would start by checking your battery to ensure it is holding charge and does not dip below a certain level, as this can affect the operation of the heater blower and the operation of the flap motors. Secondly, I would also check the heater blower fan itself with a multimeter as the resistor can start to fail, causing these symptoms. I was experiencing similar problems with mine (dual climate control), replaced the heater blower fan and solved the problem. On the dual climate control models, the resistor is affixed to the outside of the heater blower fan. 

[StrictlyConfidential]

7 hours ago, Smart Pro said:

I would start by checking your battery to ensure it is holding charge and does not dip below a certain level, as this can affect the operation of the heater blower and the operation of the flap motors. Secondly, I would also check the heater blower fan itself with a multimeter as the resistor can start to fail, causing these symptoms. I was experiencing similar problems with mine (dual climate control), replaced the heater blower fan and solved the problem. On the dual climate control models, the resistor is affixed to the outside of the heater blower fan. 

Smart Pro,

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

My battery is in good condition as I have replaced it a few months ago, because android stereo that I fitted killed my old battery due to no proper manual and extra wires that I connected, where I shouldn't have 😀

 

I check the battery bi-weekly with a battery tester and it sits nicely at around 12.5 to 12.6 volts. I keep it charged with a smart charger, as I don't drive the car very often, so battery side should be in good nick.

 

I'm sort of imagining where to check the heater blower motor for resistance, but could you describe it and perhaps mark on an image where to test it for resistance? Don't use my multimeter often, not that skilled with it, but pretty sure I should be checkin Ohms, just don't know where exactly and what readings I'm to look for.

 

Thanks

[StrictlyConfidential]

[Smart Pro]

My understanding is that that the two pins / legs at the bottom of the diagram is the connector to / from the heater blower itself and the pins / legs at the top are for the connector to / from the fuse box and are for the multiple fan speed settings. These are the ones that I would be checking the resistance values. Just set your multimeter to ohms and use the probes to check the resistance (plenty of how to videos on You Tube but this one is good): 

)

Edited 11 February, 2023 by Smart Pro