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Look for a used, genuine one from a salvage yard, if not buying new from TPS. Pattern parts are not normally manufactured to the same tolerances and require 'fettling' when fitting.

I am assuming that you car has stop start and that you have a AGM type battery fitted? If so, yes, you should code the battery, as by not doing so, it can cause issues with the voltage regulator (attached to the alternator).

I believe that the difference between those two part numbers is that the left hand and right hand drive versions are slightly different, hence different part numbers. The difference when sourcing a heater blower unit, is that for vehicles equipped with Climatic Control, the resistor (dimpled aluminium cover) is attached to the blower unit and is normally included (see link below where the resistor is sold separately), whereas vehicles with standard air con don't have the resistor visible on the unit. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/nrf/13865433?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=20315908947&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmc5KhPDP8Z9yorDE1QNMziWjqNTxdnqPKbdA9uWRVnmBGkN6F-kYPQRoCDSwQAvD_BwE

Have you checked the splash guard behind the brake disk (maybe catching) and the wheel bearing?

I am in the process of renewing my rear suspension and need to replace the subframe bushes. I would like to do this with the subframe in situ and was wondering if there are any recommendations for a bush removal tool, which works well for this model (the Laser 6250 only goes up to model year 2010). Thanks.

Plenty of ‘how to’ videos on You Tube. Procedure similar for VW and Audi. Stay clear of ‘cheap’ unbranded parts on EBay. Go for a quality make such as Lemforder or Febi Bilstein.

I had a similar problem with one of my rear calipers recently. It was seized and the brake pipe had corroded. Previous owner was a bit tardy with the brake fluid changes and the fluid was contaminated with moisture, which probably contributed to the problem. If you cannot wind back the caliper it is probably seized. Do check the bleed nipples as three of mine were seized when I tried to bleed the brakes!

I am pretty sure that the cigarette lighter socket is permanently live, as is the power socket in the luggage compartment. Fuse 25 is for the rear screen heated element / auxillary heating / ventilation and definitely switched, which is the one I would tap into. If the fuse blows, it's not going to cause any major issues.

You have done the fiddly bit (removing the glove box)! The video (turn the volume down if you don't speak Polish) shows how to remove the fan, which is very straightforward:

As Pete said, a short drive will clear the lights.

Check the condition / voltage of your battery and if this is within limits, check the resistor on the HVAC blower motor.

My understanding is that that the two pins / legs at the bottom of the diagram is the connector to / from the heater blower itself and the pins / legs at the top are for the connector to / from the fuse box and are for the multiple fan speed settings. These are the ones that I would be checking the resistance values. Just set your multimeter to ohms and use the probes to check the resistance (plenty of how to videos on You Tube but this one is good): )

The issue is 'resistance', as current flows through resistance. If the resistance is high, due to a failing fan motor / resistor, even if the current is below the fuse rating it will cause it to overheat.

I would start by checking your battery to ensure it is holding charge and does not dip below a certain level, as this can affect the operation of the heater blower and the operation of the flap motors. Secondly, I would also check the heater blower fan itself with a multimeter as the resistor can start to fail, causing these symptoms. I was experiencing similar problems with mine (dual climate control), replaced the heater blower fan and solved the problem. On the dual climate control models, the resistor is affixed to the outside of the heater blower fan.

Not sure where you got that from, but in the real world, most people will get the tyre pressure data from the sticker on the fuel cap, as below. Not so clear, is it?