7 hours ago, cado said:

I am not ever going to use the old battery again, I just want to see if it could be brought back to life and hold a charge out of the car--but it will be discarded.

Yeap as I put before I think it's a good idea to give it a go as an exercise of learning.  You will need to put the battery on your RAC on the 2-amp setting for a number of hours before the Ring might accept the work and check the RAC isn't getting to warm or the battery warm, if so stop and give up.  You'd need to keep an eye on the battery and charger.  Formerly before recharging you'd check and top up if required the electrolyte (distilled/de-ionised water) and if any of the plates in the cells looked buckled or too "furred up" you'd give up but now many batteries are properly sealed.  If they're not fully sealed you can just remove the sticky label and prise off the cover(s) - but always beware of the hazards with batteries. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/health-safety/

 

If you get a multimeter you can confirm for me if the Ring needs 10.7V to start charging a 12V battery as I've taken this figure from the Lidl cheap charger

 

Batteries I've revived that haven't been used back on the vehicle, or not suitable, or reliable, or enough life, have been used to power other 12V items like garage radio or lighting, small tools. 

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

I read about old car battery recycle values and have wondered whom its recycle it to?

I was think of taking it to a 'scrappy' where I assume they reclaim materials or pass them on for others to do, I never looked in to it. 

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

The reason why I have explored fitting a slightly larger battery is the way the vehicle will be used/unused and more CCA during the winter months but I might be over hhinking this and unnecessary work.

As I put I don't think you need a larger battery as you have the "smart" charger to use and would still be using it on a larger battery but perhaps slightly less often but also the Ring is a maintainer so can be left on to keep the battery topped up.  I'd not keep the battery maintainer on without end as the battery is designed for discharge and charge, best by use of the car plus charging if/when required.  Keeping to the same size battery would also save the time, hassle and expense of getting another jacket.

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

I won't be adding anything more extra electrical as such so a replacement existing size battery will cope just fine, it is just a larger battery would give me more CCA during winter months.

The original battery size would have allowed for winter CCA and bear in mind these cars (generally) go to colder places than the UK.  If you saw some of the threads on this site where a low battery continues to be used for many months with a bit of difficulty starting you'd not worry as you are going to be recharging the battery with the Ring when required.

 

Also don't put too much into just figures like CCA, these figures are for the battery when new and some batteries will lose performance and age more and sooner than others, there's also different systems of measurement for these figure (but that's another subject) and you have to check the figure on the battery itself as databases and adverts can have errors or out of date.

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

If I understand you, what you are saying is the vehicle needs to be coded so it recognises same new or larger battery and Ah.

If you're 'coding' the battery you can change the Ah (and type of battery and what VW have as "serial number") so the Ah can be different but if you aren't 'coding' then best to stick to same Ah, I've no idea if a slight difference in Ah would make much odds.  If you change the type of battery fitted then you do need to 'code' otherwise gawd knows what punishment VW have set up.

 

See below, this is what was done for me by a member of the site using OBDEleven system.  Note the VWSkoda factory didn't bother putting in a battery code, others have had the same.  I think much of the information is just for VW statistics, check how long the batteries last and try to avoid claims when there's a **** up their end.  My wife's car was part of a battery recall but was just checked, however when I changed the battery it might have been more expensive at the time because of a battery shortage as I believe VW were having to replace batteries on recall or warranty, I don't know the details but I've just checked now and the same battery is at a lower price than when I bought it.

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

Which ever VAG I use to sort my Yeti will have all the diagnostic equipment and code battery accordingly and in my case it's more important as the existing battery is so flat, so dead the vehicle will have lost all sorts of codes--I think.

Ask for a print out to check they have coded it correctly, on another thread an auto-electrician put in 7Ah instead of 70Ah and the new battery was in trouble after only about a year.  Very bad programing IMO that would allow such a thing there should be a range of acceptable figures for the 'coding' to accept, I expect the programmers formerly worked for banks or credit companies.

 

 

7 hours ago, cado said:

( there was a time, not so long a go, some batteries came with BEM codes to input but this is no longer the case ).

Yes good thing too, why bother if the factory didn't.

 

 

Good luck let us know how you get on.  I'd be interested if you try to revive the old battery, if possible.  I saw a chap with a broken down 2009 XJ Jag when I was walking down to my wife's Fabia at her work with my multimeter and my neighbour's scan tool (another VW fault but we won't go into that) he'd had the recovery man out to tell him his XJ alternator was had it and he'd totally flattened the battery by having the heated seats on at 5 am whilst struggling to start the car and it had stopped on a busy road after.  I checked the battery with my multimeter and the reading was so low that I checked my multimeter was registering right against a brand new button battery I had to take out of the packaging, his car battery showed on the multimeter 0.45V, I asked him to tell me the reading to make sure I was seeing right.   (ETA: It was cold at the time which is not good for electronics).

 

Edited 12 February, 20233 yr by nta16
ETA:

6 hours ago, cado said:

I read, you can leave permanently connected to car, which is why I thought charger was going to be small for engine compartment, what it meant was, you can leave extra ring terminal lead connected if so desired,--dohh.?😬

See the post below and the following posts, as far as I can see the RSC806 is the same size case as your 808, it's not designed to be put inside the engine bay with the bonnet closed, see my previously posted photo and the video I posted.

 

Click on the "Dodgy Electrics" ("26 January") here. - 

 

Edited 12 February, 20233 yr by nta16

@Warrior193 do you know if the multimeter I was bought as a present is any good, I think it seems to give slightly optimistic readings. - https://martindale-electric.co.uk/product/mm39-standard-digital-multimeter-auto-ranging/

 

Hi @nta16, Martindale instruments have a long history in the trade, I've only used their contact-free voltage testers, but that DMM should do the job well. I see that, from a reasonable sample, 90% of purchasers on Amazon give it 4 or 5 star. Nice gift!

Rather difficult to gauge accuracy unless you have access to bench-calibrated instruments, but for normal use, I can see no reason to suspect readings from that meter. What were you comparing it to?

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

@Warrior193 do you know if the multimeter I was bought as a present is any good, I think it seems to give slightly optimistic readings. - https://martindale-electric.co.uk/product/mm39-standard-digital-multimeter-auto-ranging/

 

No nothing of their MMs, do know, 30-35 years ago I purchased a Martindale 3 pin 240v socket tester, still have it, gets used occasionaly, it rattles around in one of my tool boxes, still works, still going strong.

2 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Hi @cado I've been using an AstroAl , 4000 count DMM for the past 2 years, I use this one for work and can recommend it as a good, reliable, budget DMM.

It is auto-ranging, simple to use, reads true RMS values, has battery test function for dry/rechargeable cells and even a non-contact test function for mains. The only negative point is that it doesn't come with a protective case.

It's not a Fluke 77 IV, but for less than £21, it's a bargain.    

Thanks Warrior,

 

I will take a look this evening, will the AstroAl , 4000 do for household electrics as well?

1 hour ago, cado said:

Thanks Warrior,

 

I will take a look this evening, will the AstroAl , 4000 do for household electrics as well?

Ignore above, stupid question, what I meant to ask will the leads supplied surfice for household electrics as I have read with other MMs some leads are not up to the job.

 

For a couple of extra quid, I can purchase the 6000, what do you think?

7 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

What were you comparing it to?

Nothing special, just what I'd expect in my mind and other cheap DIY stuff (like Ring Automotive chargers/testers).

 

The mate who bought it for me asked to compare it against to his two cheap multimeters and a slightly less cheap third he'd just bought and that registered lower than the other two.  My Martindale was close to his first two but all three were slightly different and all three above his latest purchase so he sent it back.

 

As long as I stick to it and any inaccuracies are consistent it doesn't matter for the very, very little I use it, mainly batteries car and others.

 

Edited 12 February, 20233 yr by nta16
wording

1 hour ago, cado said:

Ignore above, stupid question, what I meant to ask will the leads supplied surfice for household electrics as I have read with other MMs some leads are not up to the job.

 

For a couple of extra quid, I can purchase the 6000, what do you think?

Either of them would serve very well for pretty much anything you need to check with electrics - the shrouded test leads can be a bit of a nuisance sometimes - but that applies to all test instruments now (Elf & Safety)

I think the 4000 count will do all that you need, the display updates plenty fast enough for dynamic measurements - put the extra money towards a few more litres of fuel the next time you get robbed at the pumps.   

20 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

Either of them would serve very well for pretty much anything you need to check with electrics - the shrouded test leads can be a bit of a nuisance sometimes - but that applies to all test instruments now (Elf & Safety)

I think the 4000 count will do all that you need, the display updates plenty fast enough for dynamic measurements - put the extra money towards a few more litres of fuel the next time you get robbed at the pumps.   

Hi Warrior and thanks.

Did a decent amount of reading on the AstroAl , 4000 & the 6000 and great reviews, my reason for opting for the 6000 is simply I want to start getting in to measuring capacitors and such like.

 

You Tube last night and discovered the 6000 is the same as the picture below so I ordered that on Ali, its the same MM--apparently or close.

Found a few applicable Ali vouchers so paid £16 odd for the MM and managed to bag a hard case for it for around £7.00.

Was hoping to find a case for the smart charger, couldn't find one to fit so that will have to be stored in plastic container when not in use.

Hopefully I have bought OK, no idea half the stuff MM can do, that's a learning curve coming my way so now I just have to be patient and wait for the slow boat

Bought a couple of things for the Yeti, wheel locating alignment tool and a set for one of my daughters and a Nano--something toy for one of the grand kids.

Saved a few quid buying via Ali I hope.

 

Would like to know what you think of the MM.

@cado for storing the smart charger, take a look at the small aluminium cases (like a mini flight case) online -  I found a small case that takes my Ring charger and the battery condition tester. Originally intended for storing hand guns. Very reasonable price and good protection.

Those wheel support rods (alignment tool) really take a lot of the strain out of wheel changing. 👍   

1 hour ago, cado said:

wheel locating alignment tool and a set for one of my daughters

Take it from me and my bad back have and use those tools in sets of two on the wheel change.

 

 

25 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Ring charger and the battery condition tester.

Are those separate items or combined like my neighbour's RSC 612 12A SmartCharge with Battery Analyser Up to 5.0L.

 

26 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Those wheel support rods (alignment tool) really take a lot of the strain out of wheel changing.

A lot less strain if the wheels had 3, 4 or 5 studs instead of bolts! 😠

 

18 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

@cado for storing the smart charger, take a look at the small aluminium cases (like a mini flight case) online -  I found a small case that takes my Ring charger and the battery condition tester. Originally intended for storing hand guns. Very reasonable price and good protection.

Those wheel support rods (alignment tool) really take a lot of the strain out of wheel changing. 👍   

Will do, thanks Warrior.

 

Any opnion on the MM I purchased?

18 hours ago, nta16 said:

Take it from me and my bad back have and use those tools in sets of two on the wheel change.

 

 

Hi Nigel,

It's why I bought them. set of two, 4 in all, daughter's wheels are small, not so much of an issue but the thought of any of the kids struggling to swap a tyre.

Yeti's on the other hand larger and heavy and I struggled the other day, I bought two but others say one is adequate, I will have to find  out for myself.

I don't know how long the ones I have bought are, again some are saying a little long, make things awkward but I can shorten if so required.

Got them for a good price on Ali, let's hope they are up to the job and not Chinese soft metal, we shall see, also hope I don't have to use them  often but if anyone is prone to punctures, it's me, just is.

 

Through out my driving life,  every screw/nail on the road my tyres scream, " come and get me "!

Sorry I misunderstood I thought you'd bought them in singles.

 

It's as much the balance as the weight of the (oversized) wheels and tyres and how deep or shallow the centre hub flange(?), very shallow and easy to slip off on my wife's Fabia MK3.  Replacing the wheel with the car on the ground, so the tyre is perhaps less than an inch off the ground is probably more difficult than when the car is in the air on a lift and the wheel at chest height and eyes more in line with stupid shallow hub centre and stupid five holes instead of studs.

 

IIRC the locating studs we got were about 4" long, I can't think why that'd be too long.  Originally I only had one and I found that gave a pendulum effect when trying to line up with the stupid shallow centre hub and other four stupid holes, so I bought a second locating stud.

 

The one I bought was cheap and probably from China as probably the one I was gifted but the one I was gifted was a better finish to the machining, if I was worried about scratching the bolt holes I'd not use the cheap one I bought.

 

The tyre pressure warning on my wife's Fabia Mk3 is next to useless, by the time it indicated a problem she already well knew there was one.

On 13/02/2023 at 15:59, cado said:

Hi Warrior and thanks.

Did a decent amount of reading on the AstroAl , 4000 & the 6000 and great reviews, my reason for opting for the 6000 is simply I want to start getting in to measuring capacitors and such like.

 

You Tube last night and discovered the 6000 is the same as the picture below so I ordered that on Ali, its the same MM--apparently or close.

Found a few applicable Ali vouchers so paid £16 odd for the MM and managed to bag a hard case for it for around £7.00.

Was hoping to find a case for the smart charger, couldn't find one to fit so that will have to be stored in plastic container when not in use.

Hopefully I have bought OK, no idea half the stuff MM can do, that's a learning curve coming my way so now I just have to be patient and wait for the slow boat

Bought a couple of things for the Yeti, wheel locating alignment tool and a set for one of my daughters and a Nano--something toy for one of the grand kids.

Saved a few quid buying via Ali I hope.

 

Would like to know what you think of the MM.

That should do the job very well, looks identical to the AstroAl 6K - I guess they are clones of each other. Great price from Ali!

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

Sorry I misunderstood I thought you'd bought them in singles.

 

It's as much the balance as the weight of the (oversized) wheels and tyres and how deep or shallow the centre hub flange(?), very shallow and easy to slip off on my wife's Fabia MK3------

Yes that is what I found.

 

I getting the vehicle ready for work, just checking the things I can do so the other day removed all the rims, I did struggle some.

 

It didn't help I was working off a trolly, can't find my stands for love of money so was being a little furtive and a couple of them required some knocking to get them off the hubs.

 

I was checking the discs all round for condition, very good but they needed emery and  cleaner, came up near perfect, not bad I'm thinking after vehicle being stationary for 3 years, some mild corrosion.

that's all.

 

But did struggle getting the rims back on, it's as you write, the centre hubs on my Yeti are shallow so rims kept slipping off.

 

Didn't help it were cold and wet, got 'em back on but I thought never again, alignment pins.

 

I had already asked about them, it was one or two required seemed to be the view.

 

I bought two, glad now, as that " pendulum affect ", makes sense to me, I shall see.

 

Can't really avoid damage to alloy finish around holes, be carefull I suppose, I might shrink some tubbing around the pins, that might help.

1 hour ago, Warrior193 said:

That should do the job very well, looks identical to the AstroAl 6K - I guess they are clones of each other. Great price from Ali!

Thanks Warrior,

 

Just making pennies and pounds count, I had some Ali vouchers, that helped, they are clones, no doubt but decent ones, they all seem to be the same build internaly.

 

Flight/gun case, great idea, I will grab one off Amazon/eBay.

15 hours ago, cado said:

I bought two, glad now, as that " pendulum affect ", makes sense to me, I shall see.

Easy to find out, try just one then two alternating back to one, then two and see which you think is best, one or two.

 

 

15 hours ago, cado said:

Can't really avoid damage to alloy finish around holes, be carefull I suppose, I might shrink some tubbing around the pins, that might help.

It the knurled section at the end, which provides finger grip, that might scratch, if you have facilities to cut that off and perhaps cut a any socket head or external square or hex or drill a hole through for a small round bar (or screwdriver shaft). 

 

 

Don't to forget to check all your tyres, sidewalls and treads, brake fluid for wet, air filter as you can get a lot of debris in a static uncovered vehicle.

 

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

Easy to find out, try just one then two alternating back to one, then two and see which you think is best, one or two.

 

It the knurled section at the end, which provides finger grip, that might scratch, if you have facilities to cut that off and perhaps cut a any socket head or external square or hex or drill a hole through for a small round bar (or screwdriver shaft). 

 

Don't to forget to check all your tyres, sidewalls and treads, brake fluid for wet, air filter as you can get a lot of debris in a static uncovered vehicle.

 

Thanks Nigel,

I can do all of that, cordless angle grinder will make short work of it and a bit of redesign.

I actually purchased two in case I lost one but what you wrote about the pendulum affect made me glad I bought two.

Tyres are all good, all the same, 6mm tread on all, side walls all look good. Their condition surprised me as I had originally budgeted for new, not required. I would love to fit Michelin Cross Climates but the money ain't there.

Break fluid will all be changed as will oil/filter, coolant, belts that type of thing.

Belt wise what would that be, cam, pump, alternator, anything else on the Yeti?

What filters should I be asking about after 3 years or change regardless of need?

It has been a busy day today and I have created a bit of a dilemma for myself, I will write about this in a separate thread.

 

47 minutes ago, cado said:

Thanks Nigel,

I can do all of that, cordless angle grinder will make short work of it and a bit of redesign.

I actually purchased two in case I lost one but what you wrote about the pendulum affect made me glad I bought two.

Tyres are all good, all the same, 6mm tread on all, side walls all look good. Their condition surprised me as I had originally budgeted for new, not required. I would love to fit Michelin Cross Climates but the money ain't there.

Break fluid will all be changed as will oil/filter, coolant, belts that type of thing.

Belt wise what would that be, cam, pump, alternator, anything else on the Yeti?

What filters should I be asking about after 3 years or change regardless of need?

It has been a busy day today and I have created a bit of a dilemma for myself, I will write about this in a separate thread.

 

I'd certainly consider changing the pollen and engine air filters, inexpensive and pretty easy to do. long period of disuse could mean they've got pretty damp.

16 hours ago, Warrior193 said:

I'd certainly consider changing the pollen and engine air filters, inexpensive and pretty easy to do. long period of disuse could mean they've got pretty damp.

Thanks Warrior, will do.

17 hours ago, cado said:

Belt wise what would that be, cam, pump, alternator, anything else on the Yeti?

I wouldn't know, a separate thread for that might be better, a good visual inspection may be all that's required for belts but check with your model and engine type perhaps the belts are OK but tensioners or pump may need checking on your model.

 

Warrior193 beat me to it, as well as engine air filter I'd also change the cabin filter as it might be holding damp (water?) which will affect the rest of the cabin and smell, at best.

 

It depends on if and how often the engine has been started and car moved at anytime (not that just starting the engine is good) and where it was parked/stored over the three years as to how much might need doing, my wife's car is used almost everyday but being parked outside it has moss on the window drop seals and if always parked pointing the same way more rust on one side than the other.