Tackling clutch change on a 1.4 BXW engine code with 02 transmission and have a couple of questions. Haynes manual transmission removal; section refers to moving front cross member/lock carrier to service position but there's no other reference to this. What is this referring to?

 

Also can the driveshafts just be unbolted at inner flanges or do they need to be removed completely? Does the right hand driveshaft flange need too be unbolted which would mean draining the gearbox oil or can the transmission be dropped with this in place? Any other tips?

 

Thanks for any advice.

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by Stratfordade

16 minutes ago, Stratfordade said:

Haynes manual transmission removal; section refers to moving front cross member/lock carrier to service position but there's no other reference to this.

This means "spend 7 Euro on an hour downloading useful manuals from Erwin".

You need to support the engine in order to remove the gearbox, unless you have a access to a pit or a lift you're going to find this really, really difficult.

It's a simple job for a garage, try getting a few quotes.

9 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

You need to support the engine in order to remove the gearbox, unless you have a access to a pit or a lift you're going to find this really, really difficult.

It's a simple job for a garage, try getting a few quotes.

I have engine support I use on my other cars, and a lift that can get car to low height (not as good as standing underneath, but has always been ok for transmission jobs on my other cars)

Disconnecting selector cables and the left/right cable had a normal VW metal clip holding cable to lever that was simple to remove. The fore-aft selector has this plastic affair holding cable on, and I can't see how to remove and don't want to break it! Please can anyone advise how to remove this non-destructively? Thanks

It looks like you just squeeze the two plastic ears together to push it out of the metal housing.

Thanks but there are no ears, just a single 'bump' that prevents cable from coming off.

 

I did find this in the workshop manual which isn't completely clear (it refers to locking the cable on to remove it!) but is exactly the clip I'm having trouble with. I'll play around with it and it will be something very simple!

Not sure about the clip.

 

Hinging the front left corner of the car (lock carrier frame) forward a bit sounds useful in terms of creating more room for the box to move forward  away from the subframe as it comes out.

 

Removing offside drive flange also gives better manoeuvre room for getting box in/out.

 

 

Are you completely removing nearside driveshaft? I left the outer end attached and found it kept getting in the way, so I will completely remove next time.

Ah it's simple when you know how! When you lock the selector end spring you can then just pull the cable from the end and leave the actual end attachment on the lever, but can then unbolt the cable bracket from the transmission. According to a Golf manual I found using this plastic lever you can then pry the end off the lever if it needs replacing, but for some reason it carries warning only to do that when the plastic arm has been removed from the transmission.

31 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Not sure about the clip.

 

Hinging the front left corner of the car (lock carrier frame) forward a bit sounds useful in terms of creating more room for the box to move forward  away from the subframe as it comes out.

 

Removing offside drive flange also gives better manoeuvre room for getting box in/out.

 

 

Are you completely removing nearside driveshaft? I left the outer end attached and found it kept getting in the way, so I will completely remove next time.

Thanks Breezy Pete — sorted the cable connections now. I will see about the lock carrier frame when I get underneath and see what you mean about hinging it forward (is it just a few bolts?) — doing all the work up top initially. Also thanks for advice on O/S flange as I'll now drain oil once car is up.

Am being held up by silly things now. I'd like to remove selector lever on top of transmission to have more room to remove starter motor, and not to have to be careful of lever when dropping gearbox. On a couple of videos people just removed nut (it's removed here) and gave the shaft a sharp tap and the lever came off splined shaft, but that hasn't worked for me and I don't want to hit it too hard and risk disaster! Has a anyone removed this part and can suggest how to go about it? Thanks.

Any D connector gurus here? I'm trying to get the connector off the starter motor solenoid. Someone has been here before me as there's no release tab on the plug — you can see it in bottom left area of photo in post above. I've slid the pink catch all the way out but the plug still won't budge! How can I persuade it to disconnect? Thanks.

Pop the nut back on the shaft just enough to protect the threads, wedge a screwdriver tightly under the lever then give the shaft a sharp tap

39 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Pop the nut back on the shaft just enough to protect the threads, wedge a screwdriver tightly under the lever then give the shaft a sharp tap

Brilliant, thanks will give that a go tomorrow.

In case anyone looks for answers to same problems in future, Sepulchrave’s tip for removing selector lever worked a treat. I also removed damaged connector by sliding screwdriver under release tab.

 

Gearbox all ready to drop now. Just need to pick up correct tool to drain it. I had 18mm Allen socket and it must be a 17!

 

The left driveshaft can be placed well out the way with lower ball joint unbolted from cross member and ARB link disconnected at one end.

You don't need to drain the gearbox dude.

Yes, 17mm male hex tool for fill and drain plugs.

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

You don't need to drain the gearbox dude.

Normally no, but I understand removing the RHS flange makes it easier getting past the subframe, and with the flange removed transmission oil can exit there. If it can come down and go up with the flange in place then that's great as I can get on with the job!

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Yes, 17mm male hex tool for fill and drain plugs.

Thanks Pete

It's not so much getting it past the subframe as clearing the back corner of the engine.

 

More critical on the way back in than the way out, to be honest, when you're trying not to injure the fingers of your new clutch with the end of the input shaft as you try to line everything up. There's a steel gasket between the block and bellhousing that tends to catch the drive flange as you try to wriggle the gearbox in or out, part 26 here LLLParts

Almost done now — just need to reinstall driveshafts. I used my engine support bar to take gearbox weight and that made it easier to manoeuvre that flange around the flywheel and keep the diff clear of the crossmember. With hindsight I'd have left it off, found a way to squeeze the flange back in after bolting in gearbox. It was helpful to remove the rear transmission mount altogether. In the final analysis being able to have the car high enough up to stand underneath it would make this a cinch —I could manage the gearbox fairly easily standing up but you need a lot of upper body strength to manage with the car on stands and the gearbox on the ground. Even with a hoist I couldn't have managed to get the gearbox mated to the engine without a helper — it's really helpful to have another pair of eyes on where the gearbox is hanging up as you get it in position. The best tip is to avoid FWD!