MK1 Octavia vRS project. Track car with Leon Cupra R front powertrain and suspension

[Dan-VRS]

On 28/08/2023 at 08:01, phazed said:

How is progress. Looks like it’s been quiet since May.

 

Ran into a few hiccups with the workshop where the work is being done and I decided to fork out for a supercharger on my RS4 so it's taken a backseat for a while but not much left to do before first fire up so hopefully in a few weeks there should be an update 

[dubDEAN]

2 hours ago, Dan-VRS said:

 

Ran into a few hiccups with the workshop where the work is being done and I decided to fork out for a supercharger on my RS4 so it's taken a backseat for a while but not much left to do before first fire up so hopefully in a few weeks there should be an update 

GREAT NEWS 

[Dan-VRS]

So it's been a while since I did any updates.

 

For one reason and another it's been a nightmare few months since things started nearing completion. 

 

I will say these conversions aren't "plug and play" like some people say they are. There's a lot of stuff that's different between the standard VRS running gear and the AMK/BAM engine, 6 speed box, driveshafts, suspension, steering rack to name but a few.

 

The issues I ran into (from what I can remember ...it's been a while), were:

 

Sourcing the correct driveshafts was a nightmare. Not many places seem to sell new, complete driveshafts. And there is differences in shaft length and whether they are hub or bolt type. Long story short.. I had a new complete driveshaft on the left hand/nearside of the car that fitted no problems. The right hand/offside driveshaft was too short. Then I found I couldn't swap the new ends onto an old shaft (which was the right length but had nut type ends) because the CV joints wouldn't fit an OEM shaft. So ended up having to send one of the shafts back, buying two CV joints. And fitting them to the old shaft. Problem solved.

 

There were issues with the "quick rack". From what I can remember I had to swap some bits over. Namely one of the pipes because of clearance issues with the downpipe. But can't remember exactly. The power steering pump is different but I've fitted the Octavia one as apparently (due to it being a smaller pump) it gives more 'feel' to the steering when used with the quick rack.

 

The heater matrix pipes are completely different and had to be somewhat "fabricated" using old pipes. 

 

Some vacuum and cooling lines are different from what I can remember. There is an electric auxillary water pump that screws onto to the radiator. And because it's not fitted to the VRS.. there's no wiring there for it. So will have to get that sorted and wired in.

 

The gear linkage ends needed changing to fit onto the 6 speed selector mechanism. 

 

Slave cylinder pipes were different. 

 

And that's about as much as I can remember or have ran into till now. 

 

 

I've tried looking for progress pics but I'm not great at taking photos and generally tend to just crack on with fitting stuff (when I'm actually working on the car). Although for some reason.. everything that could go wrong, has gone wrong on this build. And jobs that should take 2 minutes to complete, quickly turn into an hour. But still I press on. I've paid attention to detail throughout and tried not to cut corners. So hopefully when it's complete, everything will work as it should and there will be no problems... Fingers crossed!

 

So I believe the last update was when the engine and box had been fitted..

 

Since then the subframe and suspension have all gone on, driveshafts fitted, vacuum lines plumbed in (I hope), coolant lines plumbed in, intercooler pipework fitted, wiring pretty much all connected up, and S3 ECU reprogrammed and swapped over.

 

I've spent the last few days tidying up wiring and pipework to make sure nothing is fouling on anything or rubbing. I'm now ready to fit the battery, wang some fluids in, and hopefully she'll fire up... first time! 

 

Pics are of (in no particular order) the front suspension looking all shiny, engine bay with intercooler pipework fitted, flange for MAP sensor being welded, and the car as it looks now sat on its new wheels.

 

After I get it running... I need to source some wheel spacers. The wheels currently clear the coilovers by about 2mm! I don't like spacers as they mess with alignment so much, namely scrub radius which is important. But they will need fitting, so I need to measure up and get them ordered. Then I will fit the brakes and bleed them along with the clutch, power steering fluid, tighten a few screws here and there, and fit the front bumper and the Leon Cupra R splitter. Then she should be good to go!

 

Will need a rudimentary alignment at the local tyre place, and 1 tyre needs swapping as the wheels I bought have 3 going one way, and 1 going the other! 

 

Then to run her in for a short while before getting it mapped and getting a proper geometry done and then I can book a track day and see what's she's capable of

 

 

[Paws4Thot]

4 hours ago, Dan-VRS said:

I need to source some wheel spacers. The wheels currently clear the coilovers by about 2mm! I don't like spacers as they mess with alignment so much, namely scrub radius which is important.

In which case, why not go down 10mm on ET instead?

[Dan-VRS]

18 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

In which case, why not go down 10mm on ET instead?

 

I'm not sure how good your knowledge on vehicle geometry is, but feel free to try and educate me. 

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way I could decrease the ET of the wheels is to buy new ones in order for them to be spaced further from the coilovers? But it would still have the same effect on the geometry as fitting spacers? 

 

Whilst I understand some of the simpler individual components of it like Toe in/out, camber, castor, ET, etc.. Things start to get murkier with KPI, SAI, scrub radius etc..

 

From memory, my mate compared the VRS bottom arms to the TT, S3, LCR ones and said that (whilst the bottom ball joints are adjustable) the arms aren't actually "wider", but the castor angle is different. I'm not exactly sure what the difference between the hubs are. 

 

I know changing all these components, including lowering the car and changing the wheel size and offset, is going to throw things out from the standard optimum geometry settings. But I want the impossible, happy medium between track and road setup. Hopefully the geo guy will get it as close to perfect as possible with what he's got to work with. 

 

 

[Paws4Thot]

4 hours ago, Dan-VRS said:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way I could decrease the ET of the wheels is to buy new ones in order for them to be spaced further from the coilovers? But it would still have the same effect on the geometry as fitting spacers? 

Yes. but I thought (possibly wrongly, but based on your words) that your objection was to spacers and low tolerance gaps rather than to increased track?

 

[dubDEAN]

8 hours ago, Dan-VRS said:

 

I'm not sure how good your knowledge on vehicle geometry is, but feel free to try and educate me. 

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way I could decrease the ET of the wheels is to buy new ones in order for them to be spaced further from the coilovers? But it would still have the same effect on the geometry as fitting spacers? 

 

Whilst I understand some of the simpler individual components of it like Toe in/out, camber, castor, ET, etc.. Things start to get murkier with KPI, SAI, scrub radius etc..

 

From memory, my mate compared the VRS bottom arms to the TT, S3, LCR ones and said that (whilst the bottom ball joints are adjustable) the arms aren't actually "wider", but the castor angle is different. I'm not exactly sure what the difference between the hubs are. 

 

I know changing all these components, including lowering the car and changing the wheel size and offset, is going to throw things out from the standard optimum geometry settings. But I want the impossible, happy medium between track and road setup. Hopefully the geo guy will get it as close to perfect as possible with what he's got to work with. 

 

 

the arm and hub set up allows the arms to remain in a more oe position when lowered slightly ,

 

great choice with the oe pump on s3 rack as i have the same set up as you but 5 speed and wavetrac, i just used tt tie rod ends and rods with no issue 

 

mine is tracked as a hybrid of vrs mk1 handles  well kw's eibach bars and few other replacement parts , was planning on tracking like the tt to see what it feels like , so let me know what you decide to use

[Dan-VRS]

17 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

Yes. but I thought (possibly wrongly, but based on your words) that your objection was to spacers and low tolerance gaps rather than to increased track?

 

 

Ahh ok. I don't really like spacers as a rule, or decreased wheel offset as it throws geometry out and puts more strain on the wheel bearings.  Although I know they use spacers in Motorsport for increased track and it's benefits with handling. 

 

The main issue is the gap between the tyre and the coilover. It will certainly rub when under load or with a different make or size of tyre. So can't be overlooked.

[Dan-VRS]

13 hours ago, dubDEAN said:

the arm and hub set up allows the arms to remain in a more oe position when lowered slightly ,

 

great choice with the oe pump on s3 rack as i have the same set up as you but 5 speed and wavetrac, i just used tt tie rod ends and rods with no issue 

 

mine is tracked as a hybrid of vrs mk1 handles  well kw's eibach bars and few other replacement parts , was planning on tracking like the tt to see what it feels like , so let me know what you decide to use

 

Yes I will let you know what I go with on setup. I'll have to ask the geo guy what his recommendations are for the optimum setup but I'm guessing it will be based on the TT settings and hopefully he can get it nicely balanced.