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2016 yeti (euro 6) ad blue warning light with yellow spanner

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Hey guys and gals,

 

I bought myself another yeti as my last one was written off and Iv done approx 3k. The ad blue warning came on and said 650miles until no start. 

 

The car is 2.0l diesel and now only 14000miles from new. 

 

This is my investigation so far.....

 

-I topped it up just to make sure it wasn't that which it wasn't

 

-I plugged in my OBDII reader and got the code P208a (reductant pump circuit open) 

 

-I checked the injector on the exhaust in case it was blocked, it wasn't. Looked very clean

 

- I removed the ad blue pump from the tank and drained the tank, gave the pump a little blow out with an airline and I also sprayed all the connections with electrical spray then replaced and put approx 1 liter of ad blue back in

 

The yellow spanner went away leaving only the top up sign on but shortly came back. 

 

I have a 2nd hand pump on its way as a new one is £450.

 

Could it have anything to do with the tank level sensor? 

 

Any help would be much appreciated and sorry for the novel 

 

 

 

 

How much AdBlue did you put in it when you "topped it up"?   The display would tell you the minimum and maximum amounts that you should add.  If you don't put in at least the minimum amount, the warning will stay on.

  • Author

I did the same as I did in my previous yeti, I just added it until it was just below the filler

 

Right now the indicator on the dash that says range it says 30 miles

 

in small writing below it says min 1gal max 1gal. 

 

I forgot to mention I added another 500ml to see if it would change. Everytging read the same?

 

Would the yellow spanner stay on also?

Edited by Peebs101

It sound like there's an issue with the level sensor.  

  • Author

Is that inside the tank or connected to the pump? 

 

 

Not saying this applies to your current situation, but it's worth a read as you have a YETI.

 

 

Maybe of help ... maybe not ..... ours can take anything upto 5 days before the light/warnings go out after a refill ... usually about 8ltrs.

 

:thinking:

Edited by TruckbusUK
typo

  • Author
53 minutes ago, TruckbusUK said:

Maybe of help ... maybe not ..... ours can take anything upto 5 days before the light/warnings go out after a refill ... usually about 8ltrs.

 

:thinking:

Yeh iv seen a lot of posts saying it takes ages. I can't say I had any issues with my previous model with that but iv only got 30 miles before it the engine won't start 

  • Author
1 hour ago, varooom said:

Not saying this applies to your current situation, but it's worth a read as you have a YETI.

 

 

I had a read and I think it's definitely a sensor that's went in it. As it didn't say the adblue needed topping up. It just came on straight away with yellow jug and spanner below it. (I then topped it up to rule that out, using approx 4 liters so it wasn't needing topped up)

 

My issue is finding the sensor at fault, I have a new pump en route to rule that out. 

 

Failing that, what else can it be? Can the level sensor be replaced or is it a new tank?

Edited by Peebs101

  • Author
1 hour ago, Schtum said:

It sound like there's an issue with the level sensor.  

Do you know if that can be changed out or is it a new tank needed? 

 

I notice there is a plug going to the ad blue feed line, could that he at fault? Would a paper clip test work to find out as it's only 2 pins?

Sorry it's not one I have had to deal with too much, daughter has Audi Q2 with AdBlue, and I looked at the measurement blocks to see how it is in real operation.

Hopefully your new pump will work, assuming it was broken from the beginning.

  • Author

This is the message I got whilst I was driving....

 

I didn't get a top up sign just this message with the engine management light. 

 

I took this off another forum, its not my photo 

Screenshot_20230310_183054_Chrome.jpg

Edited by Peebs101

  • Author
39 minutes ago, varooom said:

Just gave this a good read, 

 

So far I'm going to put at least 4.5 liters in the tank so the tank reguster a new amount. 

 

If that fails, I need to check the inline heater as thus is easy to do.

 

If that fails, wait till new pump arrives and try that. 

 

If that fails, its something to do with the sending unit and not sure that is serviceable, don't suppose you have the workshop manual for it as well? So I can see how it's removed 

Edited by Peebs101

I have all the workshop manuals, but ideally if your car is a keeper, and you plan to do a fair bit of your own repairs, erWin Skoda costs 7 Euros for an hour.

 

As I don't always have the time to chase up dozens of pages. 🤝

  • Author
11 minutes ago, varooom said:

I have all the workshop manuals, but ideally if your car is a keeper, and you plan to do a fair bit of your own repairs, erWin Skoda costs 7 Euros for an hour.

 

As I don't always have the time to chase up dozens of pages. 🤝

Thanks, I'll check that out 

4 hours ago, Peebs101 said:

I did the same as I did in my previous yeti, I just added it until it was just below the filler

 

Having read the TPI that Varoom posted in the other (linked) thread I would say that your problem is you have overfilled the tank, this is the relevant part of the TPI but you should read it all:

 

"If Reducing agent fill level sensor Act value [$1A73] shows 0.0mm (this is the gap between the ultra-sonic
sensor and the AdBlue® level) then the system has been
overfilled"

 

It would seem that the sensor is not a plain level sensor but an ultrasonic one that can measure the distance down to the fluid level and hence know the exact quantity, it should never be beneath the fluid level, filling to just below the brim will have submerged the sensor.

 

Read the TPI for remedial action.
 

  • Author
3 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

Having read the TPI that Varoom posted in the other (linked) thread I would say that your problem is you have overfilled the tank, this is the relevant part of the TPI but you should read it all:

 

"If Reducing agent fill level sensor Act value [$1A73] shows 0.0mm (this is the gap between the ultra-sonic
sensor and the AdBlue® level) then the system has been
overfilled"

 

It would seem that the sensor is not a plain level sensor but an ultrasonic one that can measure the distance down to the fluid level and hence know the exact quantity, it should never be beneath the fluid level, filling to just below the brim will have submerged the sensor.

 

Read the TPI for remedial action.
 

Before I topped it up I did not receive any top up warning with the yellownjug on its own. 

 

The yellow jug and spanner came on with the EML light and 650 miles to no start. 

 

I then topped it up with no success. Since then I have drained the tank and replaced 1.5 liters. As I said I will top up to the minimum (4.5/5 liters) to ensure but this was not this issue on the first place. In my opinion  anyway

Edited by Peebs101

  • Author

A little update on this....

 

So I did everything in the previous post and even changed out the ad blue pump with a replacement from ebay with no change. 

 

So I lay under the car stumped and notice the sheeth around the cable isn't normal and also notice strange washers holding the ad blue tank on and the plug for the ad blue pump was broken.

 

Further inspection leads me to believe the car has had a rear end and someone has just put a sheeth over the cables but haven't clipped them on to anything and I have a couple of broken wires. 

 

Didn't have time to go any further but will have an answer tomorrow hopefully 

 

 

  • Author

So I repaired the wire that I suspected that broke. I also buzzed out the terminalz on all 3 plugs from inside the car where it looks untouched. No change again, BUT....

 

I have found more strange wiring and it looks like the tow bar has been wired straight into the back lights AND both rear lights are not OEM LED lights, they have bulbs in every slot so sure there not even LED replacements. 

 

Not a wiring expert but pretty sure this can cause strange things to happen when lights are just spliced into like that?

 

I had my previous yeti tow bar installed by company that puts in a proper module for it? 

 

Could this be my problem?

20230315_133849.jpg

20230315_133910.jpg

3 hours ago, Peebs101 said:

AND both rear lights are not OEM LED lights, they have bulbs in every slot so sure there not even LED replacements. 

The optional extra LED lights in Yeti rear lights are not normal bulb fitment, they are soldered to the board.

  • Author

 

4 minutes ago, Urrell said:

The optional extra LED lights in Yeti rear lights are not normal bulb fitment, they are soldered to the board.

The lights I have here don't have any vag or skoda markings and made by some Chinese company. 

 

Will these lights still work okay without interference? 

I hope that the bodged trailer wiring hasn't cooked the BCM!!
Long ago there was a member that did this and he ended up having to spend a fortune on a new BCM and ECU.

personally I wouldn't trust those Chinese lights.

On 15/03/2023 at 15:12, Peebs101 said:

Not a wiring expert but pretty sure this can cause strange things to happen when lights are just spliced into like that?

Trace where they are wired to, if its a high impedance "bypass" type trailer module then aside from being spliced in a dodgy fashion the loading on the circuits is infinitesimal and will not cause any problems.

On 15/03/2023 at 15:12, Peebs101 said:

both rear lights are not OEM LED lights, they have bulbs in every slot so sure there not even LED replacements.

 

Do you mean they have incandescent bulbs? That would be a standard rear light cluster.

 

On 15/03/2023 at 18:53, Peebs101 said:

Will these lights still work okay without interference? 

 

If they have standard wattage bulbs and the vehicle was fitted with and coded for incandescent bulbs then there will be no problem with the BCM, they may not be as weather tight as the original, the contacts may corrode or make poor contact but that will just throw up bulb failure warnings when they are working for a visual test, my OE ones do that on occasion anyway.

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