Permanent  DTC. 01314. Seems to happen in the morning mostly. Light with car on top of 2 squiggly lines?  Power steering not communicating with the ecu on topdon scanner. Car will turn over but won't  start. Clear the fault and all well till next time. Next day or week. No pattern.  I'm certain that it all started straight after the  timing belt was replaced. Anyone else had this or any idea of probable cause? Thanks Roy. 

Roy, you might be better posting in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/

 

Or, just my non-technical, non-expert guesses .

 

6 hours ago, theyaki said:

Seems to happen in the morning mostly.

Anything to do with damp or moisture perhaps on wires or connector(s) perhaps or (from my looking for Topdon error code) loose, damp or aged relay perhaps.

 

Is your Topdon a code reader or scan tool and is it suited to VW and fully Updated.

 

Ross-Tech  01314 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314

 

6 hours ago, theyaki said:

Light with car on top of 2 squiggly lines?

Do you mean traction/stability control?

 

Yes, I think it is.Does that encompass  steering  brakes etc ? It's a fully up to spec 800bt , fairly comprehensive  ! I've  since seen a thread on battery state. Will do some voltage checking . I'm  thinking of looking for a hillman hunter  !! Simple, no mot or tax and can be repaired without computer input. Might start looking ! Roy. 

Only put the other day on here that I sometimes see an original 1970s Hillman still in use on local roads.

 

As with the Hillman the state of health and charge of the car battery is very important but more so with modern cars and their computer systems, especially so with German marques with their complex intertwined systems.  It's my hobbyhorse so there's loads of posts on here from me about the importance of the battery.

 

Whether the battery is the cause here or not as with the Hillman if the battery is in a good state of health and charge it will help with diagnostics and sorting starting and electrical issues which is why I've (very) often suggested, if required, the battery is fully recharged using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer.  Personally I've found low and slow recharging to be best but many don't have the time or patience so I suggested doing it in stages if required until the battery is fully recharged.

 

Many seemingly strange issues have been sorted by recharging or (sometimes prematurely) replacing the battery, there are loads of posts and threads on here to support this but whether it will for you I don't know but often it's the first thing I suggest and if required it will help.

 

For voltage check, use a multimeter on the battery posts a good few hours after the car has been parked up, allow say a drop of 0.2V for the computers doing whatever they do so if you get a reading of 12.1V it might be 12.3V, at that or below I'd fully recharge the battery.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

One of the main problems with "classics" now can be the quality of modern made replacement (or "upgrade" or "improvement") parts.

 

Edited 22 May, 20233 yr by nta16
spelling