Hello!

first post on this forum.

I have a Skoda Fabia mk2 - the passenger window wouldn’t work, read about wiring loom problems, opened the door checked the connections - broken wires! Removed the door card, speaker to get decent access and connector plug, went to get my soldering iron and returned to find my helpful son had shut the door!

Now I can’t get the door open and have shredded my arm trying to get the socket back in through the speaker hole. 
 

Is there any way to get the door open when it’s got no power to undo the central locking?

 

Help!

 

The problem is the deadlock, the only way to bypass it is to smash the lock mechanism itself, however since you have access to the loom you may be able to hotwire the lock module and get the deadlock to release.

If you are feeling brave, you can drill a hole in the inside of door metalwork, to gain tool access to a Torx screw on the lock. When turned in the appropriate direction this should unlock it: 9N3 doorlocks | UK Volkswagen Forum, see John's post on Feb 14th.

Cheers for that = the Torx comment and the picture have given me some ideas so I don’t have to drill! 
So I’ll have a go at them first.

Then I’ll have another go at refitting the connector through the door before ending up at A&E with multiple lacerations,

Then I’ll go for the drill.

Then I go for a Stihl!

Don't understand why the door won't open ? if it was already open and your son just closed it, why is it now locked ?

 

Can you not just pull the cable thats normally on the interior handle to open the latch / door ?

Nope. There’s some form of dead lock that’s taken over.

Sorry for the delay in getting back (the rear brake shoes decided to do a wobbly!)

 

Mischief managed! Because I had the door card off I had access to the loom.
Blue/red and violet/red wires, pins 1and2 (there’s 2 blue/red wires) on the door motor connector operate the dead lock.

red positive, violet negative opens the dead lock. Other way round will shut it.

I just stuck a DC power supply on them and brought the voltage up until the motor operated (wasn’t going to go past 12V)

 

cheers for all the comments.

hopefully this will stop someone else having the same grief.

G

Forgot to say - once the dead lock is off you take the power off as it will give you a bit of time to get round to open the door with the handle.

Nice easy access to the lock connector on a Mk2 then.

 

Mk1 doesn't have that big hole in the steel panel. or any hole at all there come to that.

If you look closely at the photo I’d already tried the “drill to find the torx” method, didn’t work, the torx just holds the armature in. I’d spent an hour pushing various bits (and combinations) around on the lock with screw drivers before Buying a Haynes and looking at the wiring diagram.

 

At least the window now works.

 

now to fix the fan blower on settings 1 & 2 ……..