Hi Pete, as far I have seen, about 10 of the wires are completely snapped, so if the new plug will fit in, then I intend to connect all new wires to the new plug and connect inside the door with inline connectors or if the new plug doesn`t fit, then I will just replace the broken wires to get the windows etc.. working and keep the other wires as a future back up. Have you had any dealings with Febi parts , just wondering if they are a good make?

I would expect Febi parts to be OK, probably a safer choice than the very cheapest options.

No reason to expect the replacement connector to have any trouble fitting.

 

The most crucial part of using any of these kits is probably to make sure that all wires still go to original destinations after the work is complete.

 

I saw a brand new loom on LLL parts for about £95, which might be quite a time and effort saver if you could DIY install it, compared to the repair kit.

 

Either way I think - if memory serves - that removing the door speaker makes accessing the loom where it disappears into the door much easier.

 

I'll add a link or two in a minute, just out walking in the sunshine 🌞. 

 

Skoda Wiring Set For Door 5J0971120HG - LLLParts

 

A post with instructions for door loom replacement: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/379347-broken-loom-wires-at-drivers-door-hinge-connection-fabia-ii/?do=findComment&comment=4461179

 

 

Edited 30 August, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete

10 hours ago, xman said:

You won't be able to de-pin whatever that means. These like countless other connectors have crimp and insert/latch in housing once only male/female pins. You will need to source new unused pins (unlikely to be available to general public), you will need some kind of tool to remove the existing housed pins (unlikely to exist if even possible) and then some decent wire stripping and crimping tools, the crimping tool is usually designed for the particular range of pins and so expensive and difficult to identify and source.

 

How do I know all this? Because I had an electronics manufacturing company and spent considerable monies on tooling for various connectors which I still have in a cupboard somewhere.

 

Well having spent just a couple of Euros with Ali-Express for a multitude of depinning tools and having bought an equally cheap kit as described by Pete of pin terminated wires and an unpopulated connector I can tell you that the world has moved on since you and I were involved with production electronics.

 

Having tested the tools fitting and removing the terminated wires to the connector shell and having removed and refitted an existing wire from the connector on the car as a test that is how I know that I can replace individual wires one or more at a time, that way there will not be the concern about getting the positions wrong.

You can also re-use a removed connector pin if you carefully bend the locking tang out again to the correct angle, I have had no choice but to do this on several occasions, its dont recommend it as if the pin is not securely locked it can be pushed out but it does work, not to be repeated though as the metal work hardens and the tang will likely snap off the second time.

 

Thats why these kits are so good, the wires are pre terminated with pins using production tooling.

Thanks again for the info all, I have ordered a Febi loom and when it arrives will do the repair and hopefully get the electrics from the door sorted, will post my results and comments when the job is done and then move onto the next problem, which is the blower, which is certainly not something I am looking forward to doing, as it appears I will have to remove the dashboard to get at the control unit and blower, as it`s a climatronic.

The loom for the door has arrived and will be starting on the panel tomorrow, after removing the panel, will the wiring be easily accessible or do I have to remove the speaker and any other parts? Just thought someone may have done this before and know of any problems I`m likely to encounter.

Just followed the links, so hopefully should be ok. Thanks again

Just a quick update, changed the driver`s door loom today and repaired some snapped wires in the passenger door, Everything  working now and my daughter is very happy. I must say that the door gaitors are not the easiest things to work with, but certainly glad it`s done, thanks for all the input and suggestions.

Well done on tackling it @Hawkander.

 

What loom did you go for in the end?

 

I've got to do my wife's 11 plate Monte Carlo. It's been playing up for a while. The drivers window doesn't work and it won't operate any of the other 3 windows. The other 3 all work independently though. 

 

I tried to get DM Keith to get me a part number so I could buy the kit but they refused. A couple of months later I've eventually got round to taking the door card off to access the part number label and the only thing I could find was one that said 5J0120GP - a Google search didn't throw much light on it, either.

 

Any advice gratefully received.

 

Cheers

Edited 9 September, 20232 yr by freezin
Attacked by werewolves... and clarity

That's an abbreviation of the full part number, 971 cut out of the middle.

Full number is 5J0971120GP.

That was superseded in 2014 by 5J0971120HH, currently £135.72 Inc VAT retail at Skoda.

LLL parts, linked in posts above, may well be cheaper  even after postage costs.

Edited 9 September, 20232 yr by Breezy_Pete
sp, as usual

12 minutes ago, freezin said:

Well done on tackling it @Hawkander.

 

What loom did you go for in the end?

 

I've got to do my wife's 11 plate Monte Carlo. It's been playing up for a while. The drivers window doesn't work and it won't operate any of the other 3 windows. The other 3 all work independently though. 

 

I tried to get DM Keith to get me a part number so I could buy the kit but they refused. A couple of months later I've eventually got round to taking the door card off to access the part number label and the only thing I could find was one that said 5J0120GP - a Google search didn't throw much light on it, either.

 

Any advice gratefully received.

 

Cheers

 

It wasn`t the nicest job I`ve ever done, but the Febi loom was from ebay at £42.99 and I found it wasn`t exactly the same and had 3 wires left over. I found it best to take some photos of the layout, so that you always have a ref to go back to as the wires vary in size, just make a note in a pad as you do it and it should be fine. I used inline connectors and shrink wrap on each connection and then grouped them together in the door, just be careful of the window guide. The new wires are certainly more flexible, but assume they harden over time. Hope this helps and best of luck.

13 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

That's an abbreviation of the full part number, 971 cut out of the middle.

Full number is 5J0971120GP.

That was superseded in 2014 by 5J0971120HH, currently £135.72 Inc VAT retail at Skoda.

LLL parts, linked in posts above, may well be cheaper  even after postage costs.

 

Cheers Pete, so 5J0971120HH would be compatible (just making sure).

 

what was the difference - I'm assuming a couple more cm on the loom to stop it from stretching and failing?

 

As it currently stands I've got the thick Brown wire and the thin blue/white wire snapped. A few more have cracks in the insulation 

 

 

@freezin no idea what the difference is, possibly just rationalising to fewer variants. I haven't looked in detail, but I think several different options have been condensed down into just two current ones, for just front electric windows (suffix HG) and for all four (HH). You may end up with unused connectors if your car lacks the full range of possible door electrics.

If you do opt for whole loom replacement rather than the connector end repair kit that @Hawkander used, I'd be interested in purchasing the old loom that you might otherwise bin. Ta.

 

8 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

@freezin no idea what the difference is, possibly just rationalising to fewer variants. I haven't looked in detail, but I think several different options have been condensed down into just two current ones, for just front electric windows (suffix HG) and for all four (HH). You may end up with unused connectors if your car lacks the full range of possible door electrics.

If you do opt for whole loom replacement rather than the connector end repair kit that @Hawkander used, I'd be interested in purchasing the old loom that you might otherwise bin. Ta.

 

 

Thanks for the intel.

 

I'll keep you posted. 

 

I don't know if it's pure coincidence but the 12v power socket doesn't work either. 

By the way, for the repair option, but maybe also replacement option, it's worth considering that it's really very easy to completely dismount the door from the car, to improve access and working position. 

Check strap comes away with a single XZN-head screw, then there's a 13mm 'nut' at each hinge to undo, then just lift away carefully.

The lower (painted) nut is visible in Hawkander's photo above. 

An assistant to take the weight of it may be handy, especially when refitting.

12V socket problem unrelated, have you checked the fuse?

On 09/09/2023 at 12:57, Breezy_Pete said:

@freezin no idea what the difference is, possibly just rationalising to fewer variants. I haven't looked in detail, but I think several different options have been condensed down into just two current ones, for just front electric windows (suffix HG) and for all four (HH). You may end up with unused connectors if your car lacks the full range of possible door electrics.

If you do opt for whole loom replacement rather than the connector end repair kit that @Hawkander used, I'd be interested in purchasing the old loom that you might otherwise bin. Ta.

 

 

Hi @Breezy_Pete I finally got round to doing the loom a couple of weekends ago.

 

The old loom is yours if you'd still like it?

36 minutes ago, freezin said:

 

Hi @Breezy_Pete I finally got round to doing the loom a couple of weekends ago.

 

The old loom is yours if you'd still like it?

Well done.

I'll PM you a little later, cheers.