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Skoda Superb Estate 2010 Tailgate boot not opening

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Recently the manual  tailgate on our Skoda Superb Mkii 2010 - 2015 stopped working. It would not release from pressing the boot switch and would not respond to either of the key fobs. All other functions (lights, wipers etc were ok). Unfortunately this model does not have an internal release so we’ve been forced to access/use the boot via the cabin.
 

Skoda main dealer investigated for 1hr for  £79 and concluded it could be multiple issues and would require further investigation for £274 (although if it were the motor that would include the fix) and to be fair only £130 was charged as fault found quite quickly. During that investigation they found the wiring in the tailgate to body to be damaged. Normally a new wiring loom is recommended but due to be the situation in Ukraine these are no longer available.  Wiring repair was quoted at £479.

 

Having seen the cut wire and (seen a colleagues similar repair) I decided to try myself. Bought a trim removal kit from Amazon for £20 and crawled inside the boot. Skoda’s photo and conversation confirmed that they had managed to open the boot. Using the metal pronged tool the tailgate trim was removed relatively easily - note the two internal tailgate lights will need disconnecting prior to final trim removal. Boot then opens easily upon moving the white catch lever.

 

Skodas photo confirmed the wiring issue to be in the near side rubber convoluted tubing. I unsnapped the top and bottom white plugs and unhooked top and bottom tubing. I then cut 7/8ths of the rubber tubing inorder to gain access to the wires. Placing a heat shrink tube on one end of the cut wire I then soldered the broken wire together and then heat shrinked over the join. Temporarily raising the rubber tubing I closed the boot and confirmed it now worked. Opening the boot I then proceeded to wrap insulation tape around each of the damaged wires. I have then Gorilla  taped the rubber tubing ( although I will probably see if I can get some rubber glue ( and then reseal with tape).

 

Replacement of the trim was difficult ( and it’s definitely not perfect but it appears to be stable enough for normal use)

 

In conclusion there appears to be a serious product defect in the wiring connection between tailgate and body and looking at other posts not just limited to the Superb or indeed Skodas.

 

incase it helps anyone I offer up my photos of the wiring damage, tailgate interior and tailgate trim

 

 

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  • Author

Just had this from Skoda dealership in response to my comment that £200 for 2hrs work would have been fairer

 

“Our labour rate would have been more than the £200.00 on its own with out wiring connectors and wire sets .
 
Hence the quote of £496.08 inc vat”

You really should not have wrapped insulation tape around the as yet unbroken exposed conductors, the insulation has hardened and fractured and now all the movement is within the small section of exposed copper, they will all fail one after the other and I include several that have not yet cracked, the red beside the plastic conduit looks like it has an easier ride then the others.

 

The soldered wire will probably fail again and could even be the first, soldering embrittles the copper and makes a solid non flexible portion exactly where it has to cope with movement.

 

You should either pre-emptively or at the time of the next failure replace all the wires in the joint making the soldered connections some way back on both sides in the area of no flexing.

  • Author

I agree but at the moment I now have a family car which is usable - it’s also 13 years old so I’m loath to do major works on it . Will deal with further failures as the occur.

I completely understand, often the priority is to affect a repair using whatever means as opposed to waiting for the correct materials and/or tools.

 

I once overcame a problem with the Thermo-time switch on my Scirocco (it was not operating the 5th cold start injector to start during the winter mornings) in my lunchtime using only materials from my desk and in the car. I ripped out some speaker cable and hot wired the injector via a switch dangling under the dashboard made from a erasing rubber and 2 drawing pins, it worked a treat until I could order and recieve the new thermo-time switch.

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