Hi, (I haven

What size engine is in your Fabia?

With smaller engines (1.0, 1.2 etc) you will always need to press the accelerator when roaling otherwise the car will stall.

When you were learning the car was more than likely a 1.6 which would mean it is easier to set off without having to use your accelerator.

I'm sure somebody will come along and confirm this.

Damo

Yes my 1.9 tdi Fabia vrs would roll when lifting the clutch without pressing the accelerator as did the 1.9 tdi Golf I had before that but my smaller engine Golf and polo (these both petrol) didn't. I was told it did that because of the more powerful engine, also wonder if it is because they are deisel.

thanks for the replies

i have a fabia 1.4 mpi, the peugeot 206 was 1.1

Every car you drive will have different charecteristics with the controls. Try driving a few other cars and you will see what I mean. As a driver you will need adapt to the conditions that your find yourself in and I am sure that with practice and experiance you will find you can control this.

That said however, your clutch could be worn. Does the pedal line up with the brake when the car is at rest? Is the pedal stiff? how many miles is it on?

Will be a common thing... dunno what engine you have but my 1.2 needed gas to move not just clutch... little engine + heavy car + no gas = stall.

If you drove the basic 206 it will be more than likely ud find that would stall as well.

My golf needs no gas to roll being a 1.9 but no doubt if i had 1.4 it would stall. Just a charateristic of the car mate, nothing to worry about

Hi

Some cars run idle speed controllers that will put a fair bit of fuel into the engine as it drops below idle, some that will not. Diesels generally can be made to be more stall resistant as they run without a valve controlling air to the engine, they can just put more fuel in which is the same as you applying gas.

It will be a matter of clutch and throttle control. Get back to basics and try this:

With the car stationary and in first with the clutch down, press the accelerator a little until the rev counter shows about 1200 - 1500rpm.

Hold the throttle still and bring the clutch slowly up to the biting point. Allow yourself time to feel how much force the engine is putting into the car. so if on an uphill start, you need a bit less pressure on the clutch to transfer a bit more drive to the car, if on level ground, a bit more pressure around the biting point to transfer less drive.

When you have the amount of force you need, release the handbrake keeping both feet still until you are moving fast enough for road and engine speed to match. Then you can fully release the clutch pedal. If you are in nose to tail traffic, you would just either back fully off the gas to let the now moving car trickle along, or clutch down and off the gas if everything is stopped again.

A common mistake I have observed amongnst learners that I get from other schools is that they find the biting point then apply gas. This of course results in poor speed control as the amount of biting point is the critical bit.

You can then move on from there to practice in a quiet loaction a few times to get the hang of it. You will find that with a little practice, the car can be moved glacier slowly with a small amount of gas, if you need it to be.

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Or, if all else fails, get an instructor to give you an hours lesson in your car to sort it out.

That 'll be

That said however, your clutch could be worn. Does the pedal line up with the brake when the car is at rest? Is the pedal stiff? how many miles is it on?

the pedals line up fine, though the clutch isn't as stiff as the brake, it has 21k on the clock

Hi

Some cars run idle speed controllers that will put a fair bit of fuel into the engine as it drops below idle, some that will not. Diesels generally can be made to be more stall resistant as they run without a valve controlling air to the engine, they can just put more fuel in which is the same as you applying gas.

It will be a matter of clutch and throttle control. Get back to basics and try this:

With the car stationary and in first with the clutch down, press the accelerator a little until the rev counter shows about 1200 - 1500rpm.

Hold the throttle still and bring the clutch slowly up to the biting point. Allow yourself time to feel how much force the engine is putting into the car. so if on an uphill start, you need a bit less pressure on the clutch to transfer a bit more drive to the car, if on level ground, a bit more pressure around the biting point to transfer less drive.

When you have the amount of force you need, release the handbrake keeping both feet still until you are moving fast enough for road and engine speed to match. Then you can fully release the clutch pedal. If you are in nose to tail traffic, you would just either back fully off the gas to let the now moving car trickle along, or clutch down and off the gas if everything is stopped again.

A common mistake I have observed amongnst learners that I get from other schools is that they find the biting point then apply gas. This of course results in poor speed control as the amount of biting point is the critical bit.

You can then move on from there to practice in a quiet loaction a few times to get the hang of it. You will find that with a little practice, the car can be moved glacier slowly with a small amount of gas, if you need it to be.

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Or, if all else fails, get an instructor to give you an hours lesson in your car to sort it out.

That 'll be

the pedals line up fine' date=' though the clutch isn't as stiff as the brake, it has 21k on the clock

thanks for that, i'll give it a go:thumbup:

the other thing i forgot to mention was that a couple of weeks ago i got a warning light on the dash, took it to the garage, they said it needed a new lamba probe but that it wasn't a serious fault, though it would need to be fixed to pass it's next mot, i haven't had it fixed yet as i haven't got much money at the mo, though hopefully i'll have enough cash to get it fixed within the next month, would a faulty lamba probe be likely to making any difference to this?

thanks again everyone:)[/quote']

I have a faulty lambda probe as well, But I passed my MOT With flying colours. Mine is suffering from a signal too high fault, if that makes a difference. The technicians in the garage told me that if I kept driving with it faulty I could end up damaging the engine, so I will get it done this month. When Driving through heavy traffic don't forget that the 1.4MPI is quite torquey so you can put it in 4th at about 30 with very light gas and get some good MPG.

the pedals line up fine' date=' though the clutch isn't as stiff as the brake, it has 21k on the clock

[/quote']

Doubt it's that then!

Have you actually let it stall in gear? I don't think it will...

I can get my 2.0 Focus rolling with no accelerator, but i have to bring the clutch up very very slowly. But once its rolling and the clutch is fully engaged, it will not stall. It will climb hills without any throttle at all, as the idle control valve keeps the engine from stalling. My 1.2 Corsa was the same. It might seem like its going to stall as the revs drop, but once its getting to almost stall point the ICV should catch it and stop it from happening.

My Corsa used to be like how you describe the Focus, I had to bring the clutch up very slowly, and I feared it wasn't doing my clutch very much. The Fabia is much easier to start with no revs, very hard to stall, but it is a 1.9 Diesel.

This can be done if done carefully in a 1.4 MPI Seat Ibiza but that's got the VW engine not a skoda one. However I feel like I've got more control if I move off properly, a bit of clutch and gas.

Only been driving for a couple of years and only driven a samll amount of cars like you. Had a new Civic 1.8 for a couple of days recently, drove 300 miles. Got back into my ibiza afterwards and realised how much it drives like a dog:rofl: . Different cars, different characteristics probably has a lot to do with it. A bit of practice and I'm sure you'll find the clutch point to start rolling.

Practice and you'll get it. Going from one car to the next is like day and night. :eek:

Not forgetting that few roads are perfectly level, so that engine timing and a forward slope might allow you to start moving without stalling; a backward slope on the other hand... Not sure I've ever rolled mine forward without a touch of gas though (on level ground). Are you being sensitive enough to pedal pressure (e.g. can be difficult with thick-soled shoes)?

My 1.4 mpi suffers a drain of engine power when the AC is on BTW, so definitely needs revs then.

Assuming your engine is OK.

Regards

Mo

My driving instructor always told me it was an anti-stall feature built into the cars that keep the car moving along even if you dont have your foot on the accelerator. The other explaination is the ammount of torque (particuarly on the vRS) which keeps the engine trundling along without the accelerator.

I pretty much drive to work without even touching the accelerator anyway there is that much traffic.