Octavia MKIII VRS damper advice.

[Justin1]

Hi, some help with choosing new dampers for my MKIII VRS please.
 

I’ve had a good read of the site but can’t find anything that relates directly to what I’m after. Sorry if I missed anything. 
 

From what I could glean it seems like going for Bilstein B6s on standard springs would give the added control (increased slow speed damping to be more precise) over standard that I’d like. 
 

Then potentially rear anti-roll bar after the dampers. 
 

The A and B roads I drive 90% of the time are in poor condition not just surface degradation and holes but subsidence too. The Conti Sport 7s I’m on have done a great job upping the control levels but as the standard dampers could do with replacing I might as well go for better option if one exists. 
 

Thanks 
 

Justin 

[Justin1]

I’ve continued to search and found this thread which was very helpful

 

 

[nta16]

Justin, as you've asked for advice, here's mine as a total no-expert on anything, you might not like some or all of it.

 

The factory fitted front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE weren't good and leaked at 41K/6years, the Dealer fitted replacement were "misting" in less than 12 months of being fitted, I've seen other Fabia Mk3 owners put about front dampers too.  Now it may be that 2015 Octavia VRS dampers are better quality (well they've lasted 2 years longer at least).  A neighbour had a 20+ year-old Toyota Yaris and a mate has a 28 year-old Toyota Supra both retain their fatted fitted damper and springs.

 

Normally, but not always as I've had a few on the cars I've had, I'd be careful about suspension "upgrades" and "improvements" as often they aren't or even not as good but had we a choice I would have put better front dampers on my wife's Fabia than the stuff VWSkoda use but we had a "distress" purchase having just about run out of mot time (my fault, normally I go for rolling 13-month MoT).

 

People often change dampers and springs when much of the issue may be caused and cured by renewing suspension bushes, again my wife's car has squeaked, knocked, moaned & groaned for a good while and I see other Fabia Mk3 owners put they change lots of things over years and still have a knocking/creek.  I'm not against polybushes, had a few sets on different cars, some makes are better than others.  Some say they squeak too after a while, I've never found that on the ones I had fitted, I saw a vid where a chap said it was all down to how the bushes were fitted (pressed in and use of correct grease IIRC) and I can imagine that.

 

Recently a Karoq owner asked about B6s on here and was advised by his mechanic they'd not suit his vehicle, (firmer ride which may suit you with your model, no idea about your model but I'd suggest, if you've not already done so, you ask other Mk3 Octavia VRS owners with B6s fitted (preferably with same wheels and tyres fitted as you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520899-new-shock-absorbers-is-it-worth-it/page/2/#comment-5829844

 

All modern cars are fitted with oversized wheels and tyres which are overwide and very low profile, even shopping trollies it's a fashion thing, so the more sporty models get even bigger, wider slimmer.  Tyres of course as you probably already well know are a very important component in the braking, steering and suspension systems, for suspension they affect the handling, road holding, ride and noise comfort, and to an extent so does their size. As with many things (including even fashions) more isn't always better overall and sometimes less might be better overall.

 

HTH.

    

[Justin1]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I now realise I could have posted this in a more appropriate section. 

 

I think it’s good to listen to advise and then apply rational filters to see if the advice helps our needs. 

 

I was very much with you in that I needed convincing the qualities I was after were best found in an after market damper rather than OEM, at least without spending many ££££. 

 

I replaced the dampers in my Octavia after 40k miles. They were not defective in any way but oil moving through shims and orifices will inevitably degrade. Most drivers only seem to replace dampers when they actually fail. I’d rather spend a relatively small amount to keep the control fresh dampers give. 35k (1.5 years) later and I’m ready to replace them again. So far the rational decision is to go for the B6s as everything points towards them fitting my needs the best. 

In this case the suspension bushes are fine but I’d like increased LSC from the dampers to support the car better especially as it’s often loaded in the back. 

 

Interesting your view on modern cars and tyres. I think much depends on the characteristics a driver prioritises. Everything is always a compromise. Personally I feel 225/40/18 is a good compromise for sporty handling on uk roads with a +1500kg car. Especially as most modern tyres aim towards mpg rather than sporty handling and precise steering feedback.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mPyg3ilw3KU&pp=ygUbV2hpY2ggaXMgdGhlIGJlc3QgdGhyZSBzaXpl

 

Justin 

[nta16]

Justin, thanks.  Just a few points then I'll leave you to it.

 

Sorry I didn't mean to suggest you were in any way wrong in posting here, it is after all called 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' and that's what you are asking about, I didn't make myself clear (often happens) I was thinking as it can be rather slow in this section and for more specific info with B6s fitted to Mk3 Octavia VRSs.

 

I totally agree with replacing items before they fail and before they go too far out from optimum and reasonable and reliable performance (particularly on a performance car driven in a way it was designed (hence why I have no money and car now  😄).

 

Many performance dampers can be "rebuilt"/"refurbed" (of course this means time off the car or two or more sets) and I expect each manufacturer has there own expected life for their different models of damper based on use of course.  Things do wear as you say, oils now available cope better with things and help reduce some wear and keep things like seals in better condition for longer.  Calculator out, 35k divided by 1.5, times 0.9, is (if I've pressed the right buttons) say 21k /year of rough A / B roads.  +1500 Kg isn't heavy for a modern car (doesn't need 18" wheels) but isn't lightweight which is fair enough for a 5 seater road car.  Depends if you are fitting the dampers yourself or paying someone else to do that and if it matters anyway.  A mass market damper (like Bilstein brand name) may well be very fine and reasonably long lasting or you could perhaps look at a road sport damper from smaller British specialist companies( and perhaps adjustable dampers) which should be robust and reasonably longer lasting if only used on road driving.  These things can be not as expensive as first thought and good value if more durable in performance.

 

Tyres, 😄 I'm more used to when 70 was low profile.  You'd probably not want too higher performance tyres at 23k/year.  I've seen that vid before, from another poster on here, and whilst I'm not a fan of the presenter the point is made that small variations in size won't make a big difference, particularly on modern cars with all the electronic"aids" on them, it's the design, build, make-up, composition of one tyre against another that can make more difference (hence all the tyres and associated specialist people you see at motorsports (not that I follow or particularly like motorsports).

 

Do bear in mind I'm not an expert in anything especially suspension and tyres but when I had the money I'd give a set of tyres 1k-miles (on road going only "sports" cars) and if I didn't like them I'd change them, what's the point of having a 'performance' vehicle (and this could be a MX-5 1.6 or 64hp a.n. other) if you can't get the performance you want (doesn't have to relate to paper figures or needles on dials or digital readouts).

 

Just opinions of a bloke on the internet, as always each to their own.  Enjoy your car how you like to enjoy it, good luck, perhaps report back at some point and give what you actually done and how it worked out to what you wanted and needed, cheers.

 

Edited 3 March by nta16
spelling

[vrs'burks]

I recently fitted bilstein b8's to my mk3FL . . Difference In performance is night and day. . I upgraded because one of the front oem shocks was shot at 40k miles. . 

 

I do have h+r springs fitted hence going for the b8 and not b6. . 

 

They are FIRM. . But not over the top firm, unless you drop it down a decent pothole-then they can be quite harsh, obviously this is where the compromise between comfort and performance steps in. . But in my experience upto yet the pros outweigh any cons you might experience. . Where the car used to feel a bit juddey and unsettled due to road condition is much much better now.

 

The way it puts power down is also much improved, probably a combination of less squatting and wheel hop now.

 

If you are looking to upgrade rarb - 

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-21-7mm-x-3-6mm-vw-mk7-golf-clubsport-s-rear-anti-roll-bar-upgrade.html

 

This is a nice upgrade while staying quite oem. . I have one on mine, makes a difference for sure but no where near as much as the dampers do.

Edited 5 March by vrs'burks

[Dooge]

OP, that was my thread I believe. After putting several thousand miles on all is good (bar what I believe to be the topmounts being sub-par) I intend to replace the rears as I only did the fronts with topmounts, ARB links and outer tie rod ends. I also fitted Racingline 25mm springs. Overally I'd say stiffness is up 15-20%. This doesn't worry me as I often thought the ride to be crashy and not comfy, overdamped for sure. 

 

Will B4s or B6s help with your issue? They will feel better, but without replacing all of the components around it's just a small update. Make a list and do it all together.

 

Poor roads need compliance from suspension, often people fit stiffer thinking they will get more control and end up with less due to tramlining, less given, etc. But, the B4s with slight lowering springs is fantastic on fast B roads and really makes it better than stock to drive. On rough roads I don't know if this will be the case. Is it a Lotus Elise? No, but I had fun with my mates E63 AMG touring last year around Wales, he left me on the straights but I kept up in the corners. 

 

It did make me think the rear was VERY wallowy and would benefit massively from a stiffer rear ARB. I still plan to fit a second hand MK7 Golf GTi rear ARB, these are 21.7mm over our thinner ARBs (18 or 19mm I believe) these GTi ones can be had for nothing really, I can't justify a few hundred quid for a fancier ARB. I'll do this with rear ARB links and rear shocks at some point. The Club sport one linked above is the same outer diameter but is much thicker than a stock GTi one.

 

Let us know what you decide!

Edited 7 March by Dooge