Anti roll bar bush replacement

[OJOctavia]

Hi folks,

 

Any advice on the best way to separate the metal housing for the anti roll bar bushing on my MKII Octavia. I changed the links last night to cure knocking in one. Was going to do the bushes but couldnt seem to get them to seperate to pull them out.

 

There doesnt seem to be any videos online for 1Z models. Any help greatly appreciated. 

[rbhelle]

If it is the front bushings, you will need to lower the front subframe assembly into service position aka lower it approx 10cm. This will give you access to the front anti rollbar bushings.

But whenyou lower the subframe, it is recommended to use guide pins on the lower control arm adapter connected to the chassis and also the front bolts on the subframe both sides. 

[OJOctavia]

Thank you very much. 

[rbhelle]

1 hour ago, OJOctavia said:

Thank you very much. 

But, I must say, if you just lower the whole subrame assembly, it gives you tremenduosly space 🙂 It is actually very easy to lower the subframe. On the other hand, just make sure you got the guiding pins T10096 installed. Using these, and hopefully you won't need to do an 4-wheel alignment after taking down the subframe.

[J.R.]

Do these guide pins have a moveable eccentric that can be locked in position or are they simply centring pins?

 

If the latter like many I have seen they are the last thing one would want.

[rbhelle]

These are the ones. Yes they have movable eccentric that are locked in position when mounted.

Asta Adjustment Bolts A-SUBF4 Fit VW Audi Fitting OEM T10096 : Amazon.com.be: Automotive

[J.R.]

Having seen the photo on the other thread with the cross-member removed and no sign of the guide pins in place I think I can answer my own question, they must indeed be the latter, I have only just seen your thread asking for advice so it is too late now for me to say the number one precaution is to mark the subframe position relative to the chassis exactly on all fixing points using spray paint or whatever before removing, if not then the vehicle is likely to crab and only drive in a straight line with the steering wheel off centre and a constant force applied.

 

Been there done that and got the T shirt, thats why I was hoping the alignment pins did what they claim "maintain the (existing) position of the subframe on reassembly.

 

The gearbox and bevel drive box assembly is 'kin heavy isn't it!!! I hope you had a transmission jack! I lowered mine down from the engone support frame using ratchet straps.

 

Was this the "horsey doggy" car for sale on this forum?

[J.R.]

Ignore my previous post which overlapped with yours, I'm really pleased to hear they are eccentric and lockable and wish I had known of their existence when I changed my clutch.

 

I will have to look again at your photo, perhaps I was looking at the wrong mounting point.

[rbhelle]

Just now, J.R. said:

Having seen the photo on the other thread with the cross-member removed and no sign of the guide pins in place I think I can answer my own question, they must indeed be the latter, I have only just seen your thread asking for advice so it is too late now for me to say the number one precaution is to mark the subframe position relative to the chassis exactly on all fixing points using spray paint or whatever before removing, if not then the vehicle is likely to crab and only drive in a straight line with the steering wheel off centre and a constant force applied.

 

Been there done that and got the T shirt, thats why I was hoping the alignment pins did what they claim "maintain the (existing) position of the subframe on reassembly.

 

The gearbox and bevel drive box assembly is 'kin heavy isn't it!!! I hope you had a transmission jack! I lowered mine down from the engone support frame using ratchet straps.

 

Was this the "horsey doggy" car for sale on this forum?

Hi J.R.

Well, I have mounted the pins, so time will show if those makes it easier to find the "witness marks". I have 2 transmission jacks, so yeah, I will use one of them 🙂

Did the gearbox on a FWD manual Golf last year, and that gearbox wasn't all to heavy. But not yet sure if I have to dismount this one together with the 4x4 trans case. If so, I guess a trans jack is the proper way to go 🙂

[rbhelle]

6 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Ignore my previous post which overlapped with yours, I'm really pleased to hear they are eccentric and lockable and wish I had known of their existence when I changed my clutch.

 

I will have to look again at your photo, perhaps I was looking at the wrong mounting point.

You see one of them here on tis picture.

Need 4 of them in total. One for the lower control arm (big 18mm bolt) and the other through the subframe arm bolted to the frame (also 18mm bolt) on each side.

[rbhelle]

Think maybe this picture shows where to use them. Blue and red color (one pin each color)

[rbhelle]

16 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

 

Was this the "horsey doggy" car for sale on this forum?

Well sure, but I am in Norway, so guess it is cheaper to get one from UK 🙂

 

I plan to sell it for approx 4500 - 5000 GBP. Bought it for 384 GBP (yes, you read it right, 384 GBP). Seller wasn't too happy to pay workshop to do all reapirs for more than 5000 GBP that he was offered....

Need following repairs:

• clutch+dual mass flywheel
• timing chain and water pump
• egr cooler (no need, but crazy not to do when all is accessble)
• new cable for the V55 coolant circ pump webasto
• service webasto
• oil/filter change and service haldex oil/filter and clean out haldex pump filter.
• Will also replace front/rear diff oil when it is already on carjack.