My wheelarches and corners of the doors are slowly being lost to the dreaded tin worm. 

 

Can anyone recommend a paint on inhibitor that I can apply before I get the bodywork fixed professionally? 

https://bilthamber.com/product-category/anti-corrosion/

 

Not sure which but I keep coming across cleaning products from these people that are the best I've ever had

Hydrate - 80 is excellent. I've used it for years - it works and you can use as a primer as it dries hard and can be sanded down ready for paint.

 

Just used it on my Yeti, drivers door where the road grit runs down the seal and rubs the paint away. Nice and clean now in new paint, covered by a small patch of clear helicopter tape ready for the winter.

Edited 6 October, 20241 yr by Yety

@Yety @Prezafab Thanks both

Hydrate 80 ideally used on clean metal. Plenty of people say to put on rust, but that’s the advice I got a month ago from Bilt Hamber. I was trying to buy it as prep for a subframe with surface corrosion. The guy who replied was surname Hamber, so I’m guessing he knew what he was on about. 
 

If you want to protect it for a short time while waiting to have it done, I think there a few ways. It depends on extent of rust, how much is hidden, how much work you want to do etc.  Not an expert, suggestions…

 

Remove loose stuff. Then degrease/clean.  Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is just a generally superb product to have around for cleaning just about anything.  Get 5L and you won’t regret it (dilutes a lot).  Use it very diluted and make sure surfaces are very well rinsed afterwards.  The surfactants in it can otherwise prevent some of the products working (according to BH).   If it’s not very dirty, or as a way to ensure a clean surface after Surfex HD degreasing , spray and wipe with isopropyl alcohol or a 50/50 mix with water. 
 

Getting areas dry afterwards is obviously tricky at this time of year, so patience may be needed.  A blower and or heat gun used carefully may help.

 

Then…

 

Spray with Bilt Hamber Atom Mac.  Cheap and quick. Perhaps suitable for short term protection.  This can be used also if you prep to bare metal and wash to prevent flash rusting.

 

or

 

Coat with a grease or wax product. I’ve just slapped a blob of Corrosion Block (made by people who make ACF50) on a stone chip on the Yeti until I can paint.

 

or

 

Try a paint on rust converter like Kurust. I’ve found it to be good stuff. It needs to work on rust rather than bare metal although it does still react and coat bare metal.  Won’t work well on thick rust as it can’t get to stuff underneath so that would need wire brushing or similar. I use before stone chip touch ups, but have also used on a mower deck about 3 years ago which then remained unpainted. Not always out in the rain of course, but stayed protected. Rust starting to reappear now on that.

 

Do not get on skin or eyes. I know most products say this, but take the warning seriously for Kurust.

 

or

 

Use BH Dynax UB or UC (UB brown, UC clear). I recently did the subframe and suspension members on another car after wire brushing, cleaning and Kurust. Dynax can be bought in a tin for brushing or in an aerosol. Protect surrounding ares, clothes, wear a mask.

 

They also do S50 which is for internal cavities.  For body panels, you find an access whole and use a straw on a spray can to coat inside.  Not tried this yet.

 

BH have rust remover (not converter) called Deox.  They do a powder and a gel. I have used the powder for (which you dissolve) for rust removal in a fuel tank. It’s intended for parts which can be immersed.  I found it decent, but also used citric acid which I found to do a similar job.

 

The gel is more suited to body panels. I think it can do a good job, but it’s much more difficult and you would then need to protect bare metal.

 

This video shows a way to use it on a wheelarch: