Hello!

Im gonna replace some parts on my 2005 Octavia Combi 4x4.
That some parts are calipers front/rear, coils front/rear, controlarms front and camber arms rear etc.

Gonna overhaul the whole suspension i cant find all the torque specs and Haynes and Betely dosent have anything for these cars.

Could someone please point me in the right direction or specify all torque specs?

Best regard
Rob

Some of the bolts used in subframes/suspension are stretch bolts and have to be replaced when changing. Not sure of the torque but I assume they are skoda only parts from dealer etc so perhaps make a list and ask them for torque values when purchasing them. I did read if removing sub frame it would require an alignment before tighening bolts. Main probem will be removing old bolts. I would be spraying wd40 or penetratin oil for a good few weeks before atempting removal. If any bolts are inside the chassis try and get some wd40 into them. I had problems before but drilled a small 3mm hole from above/side so I could spray wd40 onto encapsulated bolts. Last thing you want is a snapped bolt or worse the internal fixed nut to start turning. 

A good rule is 1/3 turn to loosen lubricate and 1/4 back. Takes a while but you generally dont snap things. Do not use an impact driver unless absolutely nessesary. Quickest way to strip/snap things as well as crossthreading.

Alasdair

Edited 19 February, 20251 yr by Alasdair1

Thanks but just bought this book. Hope it helps. 

Hope so. Remember to check what bolts have to be replaced and not reused. If there very rusty then spray with penetrating oil etc and repeat over a few days. I bought a plumbers map gas torch with a small burner head to give them a bit of heat. Its more precise than the larger ones I also use a plumbers heat pad behind to protect paint/wiring/plastic

Alasdair

8 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Hope so. Remember to check what bolts have to be replaced and not reused. If there very rusty then spray with penetrating oil etc and repeat over a few days. I bought a plumbers map gas torch with a small burner head to give them a bit of heat. Its more precise than the larger ones I also use a plumbers heat pad behind to protect paint/wiring/plastic

Alasdair

Thanks for the input, im replacing ALL bolts, nuts etc just to be sure,

I have a burner ready, done this to some BMWs before so i have the patience needed :)

/rob

New bolts cost quite a bit , but really are the correct way forward, I needed to replace a sheared off subframe bolt on my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI, I just fitted a new bolt and torqued it to the initial torque level and handed that car in along with the rest of a set of new bolts, and requested a subframe alignment which must include swopping all the original bolts for the new VW Group ones I'd supplied.

 

Edit:- up until now, I've always bought a digital copy of the official workshop manual from a 3rd party online source, okay it will not be "the latest" but for my cars that has worked out okay, the erwin route is probably the smarter way of getting that info in its latest form, but I considered that my broadband was not good enough to do that at the time, so bought the digital copies on USB sticks.

 

When I initially bought my 2011 Audi S4, I had to make do with Haynes for a similar age/model TDI, but that helped a bit until I got round to buying the digital version from www.easymanuals.co.uk.

Edited 21 February, 20251 yr by rum4mo

Fair play to working on BMW. My son in law had an old 530i and everything on it seemed to be seized solid and snap. He kept it for about 2 month gave up and sold it for parts. Pity it was some car. Straight 6 cylinder 3liter and it used to shift. Saying that it had been lowered and had stretch tyres on it and a ridiculous exhaust so he kept getting pulled over. He reckons it had markers on it from previous owner for drifting/antisocial behaviour plus it was gold and windows were so tinted they looked black

Hope all goes well with the subframes

Alasdair

1 hour ago, rum4mo said:

New bolts cost quite a bit , but really are the correct way forward, I needed to replace a sheared off subframe bolt on my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI, I just fitted a new bolt and torqued it to the initial torque level and handed that car in along with the rest of a set of new bolts, and requested a subframe alignment which must include swopping all the original bolts for the new VW Group ones I'd supplied.

 

Edit:- up until now, I've always bought a digital copy of the official workshop manual from a 3rd party online source, okay it will not be "the latest" but for my cars that has worked out okay, the erwin route is probably the smarter way of getting that info in its latest form, but I considered that my broadband was not good enough to do that at the time, so bought the digital copies on USB sticks.

 

When I initially bought my 2011 Audi S4, I had to make do with Haynes for a similar age/model TDI, but that helped a bit until I got round to buying the digital version from www.easymanuals.co.uk.

A friend gave me a good deal so its wasnt that expensive and i see it as an investment in my life
I like physical manuals in paper with a paperback, i could print an emanual but i always list the papers etc.
 

1 hour ago, Alasdair1 said:

Fair play to working on BMW. My son in law had an old 530i and everything on it seemed to be seized solid and snap. He kept it for about 2 month gave up and sold it for parts. Pity it was some car. Straight 6 cylinder 3liter and it used to shift. Saying that it had been lowered and had stretch tyres on it and a ridiculous exhaust so he kept getting pulled over. He reckons it had markers on it from previous owner for drifting/antisocial behaviour plus it was gold and windows were so tinted they looked black

Hope all goes well with the subframes

Alasdair

Had a few bmws and they where all a challange, the last one ha welded wheelbearing from the last owner that was a bit of a challange.
And thats from working from BMWs I always change every bolt because every bolt always snaps or is bent etc.

/rob