Hello Briskoda, thank you for having me.

 

Apologies for length, be gentle, it's my first time etc.

 

I have a 2008 Octavia Scout 2.0 TDI (PD) with just over 150k miles, and it wobbles.

 

It is most noticeable at 60 mph on constant radius left hand bends; worse when going down a gentle slope. It is also becoming noticeable at lower speeds, but always worse when turning to the left. It's not wheel balance or buckle as the frequency is much too slow to be that.

 

As the title suggests, it feels a bit like repetitive tramlining, or what would happen if you deliberately applied a few degrees of steering left, right, left, right, left etc at a frequency of maybe one or two cycles per second. It's enough to get the whole car body wobbling to and fro. That being said when it does the wobbling thing, I can't feel any feedback through the steering, which make me think the problem is at the rear axle

 

I read an old thread on here that described similar symptoms and it was solved by replacing the rear control arms, so today I had both ends off the ground and went round and given the wheels a good shunt in all directions using a pry bar, but I have not been able to feel any significant play in any of the bushes or ball joints. There seems to be a little bit of front to rear movement in the rear trailing arm where it meets the body, but it's not much and the movement is not in a direction that would induce a rogue steering effect.

 

Mechanically the car is reasonable but not pristine. I have had it just under a year and in that time it has had new front lower arms (more on that later), new rear dampers, OSF top mount and bearing. When I bought it the rear springs looked very new, and the fronts are still there and in one piece. The geometry has been checked and is within spec (mostly; more on that later and possibly related to the new lower arms).

 

The front dampers are, in the words of my local garage, 'showing a bit of oil mist around the seals but still seem to be working OK'. The rest of the suspension bits are the usual level of grotty for this time of year but as noted, seem OK otherwise. It's on four matching Kumho Solus something-or-other winter tyres. The front pair have a decent amount of tread but the rears are down to the first set of wear bars (They look to have two sets; I assume the first are to show when they stop being as good in the snow, and the second are the actual legal limit?). Tyre wear is even across all four tyres.

 

So based on all the above I don't think it's failing suspension, unless these cars are particularly sensitive to suspension wearing out and handling problems arise before the usual rattly and knocking symptoms of bushing wear happen?

 

My next guess is that I possibly have the wrong arms fitted and have messed up the front axle geometry, and I have the following questions about that:

 

- are there different front lower arms between the different variants; hatch vs. estate. vs 4x4 vs Scout?

- should front / rear position of the front wheel be perfectly central in the arch? You can see in the photo that I have tried to attach that mine sits slightly closer to the rear of the wheel arch than the front. It's the same on both sides. I would guess it's about 10 mm offset to the rear. I have tried searching images of other cars to compare, but it is very hard to find a photo that is side on and level with the wheel centre to compare.

 

If the answer to both of the above is 'yes', then I suspect my local motor factor supplied me the wrong arms. They fit on easily enough and the wheels don't scrub the arches at full lock, but it would possibly explain. 

the main handling problems I have. I did line up the new arms with the old before fitting them just to make sure and they appeared to line up exactly, but maybe I didn't check carefully enough. Last time I had the geometry checked the caster angle was a bit out on both sides, and this would line up with the horizontal position being messed up by the wrong parts. I don't have the geo result to hand but I think the caster was around one degree from what it should be.

 

However if all MKII Octavias all use the same arms, but the wheel should be neatly centred in the arch then that's more worrying as I don't know where the rear offset has come from. Maybe it's just that the motor factor supplies crap parts; they were suspiciously cheap. 

 

If the problem is none of the above I don't know what else to consider. It's a very long shot but possibly the difference in wear (and therefore radius) between front and rear tyres, plus different axle speeds when going around a corner is tricking the 4x4 system into thinking the front axle is slipping, so it's locking and unlocking the Haldex clutch? It definitely feels like that explanation is clutching at straws though, and this would be easy to check by pulling the Haldex system fuse and going for a drive so maybe I will do that tomorrow.

 

If you have made it this far, then sincerely thank you for sticking with me, and I really hope someone here has come across this problem before and can help. 

 

TL;DR Car wobbles, please help.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

 

I'll take a piccy of my '07 Scout front wheel arch tomorrow so you can compare.  Mine doesn't wobble.

As regards commonality of suspension components there are different entries for saloon, estate, Scout, RS and so on but you can look at the parts catalogue entries HERE for info.

 

The Option Code (PR Code) for my Scout is 2UB, so the page for that is HERE.

 

You can confirm your own Option Codes on the information sticker either in your service book or under the boot mat near the spare wheel well. There's a site which will decode the Codes for you HERE.

 

One possible useless thought; I had a similar problem with our old Mk1 estate which ultimately turned out to be a front wheel bearing - even though there was no noise and no excess shake at the wheel rim.

Thank you for your reply, and for the link to the parts list, that is very useful.

 

I actually have the list of all the codes for my car, a few pounds on Ebay well spent.

 

Mine has the same 2UB code for the damper strut and bearing housing as yours, and the PR code relevant to the wishbone (which is what I meant by lower arm; my mistake!) is 8Q1 (which the decode says is actually related to active headlight levelling but I guess this affects the suspension due to level sensors?) 

 

am I reading the parts list correctly that the one highlighted blue means for cars built up to end of August 2006 and red circled means for cars built after that date?

 

If I am understanding it right, it looks like for cars built after August 2006 the wishbones are the same between FWD and 4x4 variants, but maybe I was supplied pre 2006 arms for my 2008 car. Do you know if there is any way to find the dimensions for the parts listed?

Yes to your supposition about valid dates.

 

Scouts were all (I believe) fitted with HID headlamps along with headlamp washers and levellers.

 

ah OK, well the 8Q1 code just shows as 'headlight range control' and 8Q3 is 'dynamic range control', with different suspension wishbones for each

13 minutes ago, deadtom said:

ah OK, well the 8Q1 code just shows as 'headlight range control' and 8Q3 is 'dynamic range control', with different suspension wishbones for each

Interesting.  My PR codes do not include headlamp levelling, although the facility is both present and working.

 

Full list of my PR codes FYI:

 

1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)

1D0 = Without trailer hitch

1KF = Disc brakes, rear

1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)

1NL = Covers for alloy wheels

2UB = Rough-road design

3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof)

3GA = Without cargo area - added later by CH (original owner)

3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats

3NW = Rear seat bench/backrest, split folding with center armrest

3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front

3S2 = Black roof rails

4A0 = Without seat heater

4K3 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and safe securing

4R4 = Power windows with comfort operation and circuit breaker

4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation

4X3 = Side air bag front with curtain air bag

5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical

5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex

6FB = Body-colored exterior mirror housings

6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system

7A2 = CD changer

7AH = Electronic vehicle immobilization device with alarm system, passenger compartment control and backup horn

7GG = Emission standard EU4 DPF

7P4 = Manually adjustable lumbar support in front seats

7Q0 = Without navigation device

7X1 = Park distance control

8GU = Alternator 140 A

8L3 = Roof antenna

8QL = Key for locking system with remote control

8RM = 8 speakers (passive)

8WR = Front fog lights

8X1 = Headlight washer system

8YH = Radio, version 1

9AK = Climatronic with impact pressure control free of cfc

9P1 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle

9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation

B09 = Type approval Great Britain and Northern Ireland

E0A = No special edition

F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment

G07 = Front shock absorption

HW6 = Tires 225/50 R17 94W

J0L = Battery 340 A (70 Ah)

L66 = Suspension range 66 installation control only, no requirement forecast

QG1 = Service interval prolongation

QN1 = Drawer under left front seat

 

My 1.6tdi is doing the same between 40-60mh. Slightly worse on corners I think. difficult to pin down. Have noticed its only present on mine when accelerating. If I stop accelerating say at 50mph and stick at 50mph its not there so reckon I can rule out tyres etc. As you said I also have no vibration or movement in steering wheel but the wobble feeling is felt through the seat. 

Have been pointed in the direction of injector misbehaving under load but no fault codes or warnig lights.

Will be following this to see if there is an outcome. Its got me stumped.

The only thing I can think of is failing engine mount/gearbox mounts but they look like new

Alasdair

that sounds a bit different to my problem, as mine does it regardless of acceleration. Maybe Octavia Scouts just take any opportunity to get a wobble on?

 

out of interest, does the wheel sit centrally in the wheel arch on yours, or is it set back slightly like mine (photo in my first post)?

6 minutes ago, deadtom said:

that sounds a bit different to my problem, as mine does it regardless of acceleration. Maybe Octavia Scouts just take any opportunity to get a wobble on?

 

out of interest, does the wheel sit centrally in the wheel arch on yours, or is it set back slightly like mine (photo in my first post)?

Mine is a FWD mk2 1.6tdi 12 plate and the front wheel is in  centre not back like yours. Not sure if the scout is different but you may be onto something there. 

Alasdair

47 minutes ago, deadtom said:

that sounds a bit different to my problem, as mine does it regardless of acceleration. Maybe Octavia Scouts just take any opportunity to get a wobble on?

 

out of interest, does the wheel sit centrally in the wheel arch on yours, or is it set back slightly like mine (photo in my first post)?

I'd missed on that. Jack the corner up, support it on an axle stand and see if there is any fore and aft play. If there is, suspect an issue with the bushes or swivels.

Might be worth checking top mounts as well as lower bushes etc, Can't think of any other reason it would be pushed back unless its normal for the scout. 

18 hours ago, MikeTheThinker said:

I'll take a piccy of my '07 Scout front wheel arch tomorrow so you can compare

Driver's side:

 

Pax side:

 

I also note your car is standing a lot higher off the wheel than mine.  Both my front shocks were replaced last Summer with the correct part numbers.

 

Edit: just a thought; what size are your wheels?  They look to be smaller than my 17s.

Edited 23 February, 20251 yr by MikeTheThinker

I agree the ride height is a lot more. Wonder if previous owner has changed front suspension or put a lift kit on it or wrong front struts/springs on it. If its done wrong it would explain position of wheel? Have a look at struts etc to see if there are any part numbers left on them. VAG ones usually have a sticky plastic label. Not sure re aftermarket ones but the KYB springs on mine had a number etched into paint but its usually gone by the time you have to replace them.

Alasdair

On 23/02/2025 at 13:42, Paws4Thot said:

I'd missed on that. Jack the corner up, support it on an axle stand and see if there is any fore and aft play. If there is, suspect an issue with the bushes or swivels.

 

On 23/02/2025 at 13:42, Paws4Thot said:

I'd missed on that. Jack the corner up, support it on an axle stand and see if there is any fore and aft play. If there is, suspect an issue with the bushes or swivels.

 

I've already done and even made sure to put both sides on axle stands to make sure that there was no twisting load on the ARB which might be removing any play in the joints, but I could find no obvious play in the bushes, linkages etc

 

On 23/02/2025 at 13:54, Alasdair1 said:

Might be worth checking top mounts as well as lower bushes etc, Can't think of any other reason it would be pushed back unless its normal for the scout. 

 

OS top mount replaced recently by my local garage, and I assume they would have checked the NS one while they were there but didn't report anything wrong with it. Lower bushes were all replaced as they come with the wishbones which I did a few months ago

 

23 hours ago, MikeTheThinker said:

Driver's side:

 

Pax side:

 

I also note your car is standing a lot higher off the wheel than mine.  Both my front shocks were replaced last Summer with the correct part numbers.

 

Edit: just a thought; what size are your wheels?  They look to be smaller than my 17s.

 

Thanks for taking the photos, yours definitely look nice and central compared to mine, and you're right, mine is sitting very high even accounting for my photo being taken at a lower angle. The line where the bumper trim meets the front quarter panel looks to be the same height as the top of the tyre on your, but is clearly well above it on mine. hmm

 

Oh and I think it's just the massive gap between the top of the tyre and the arch that is making my wheels look smaller. Mine are also 225/50 R17

 

22 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

I agree the ride height is a lot more. Wonder if previous owner has changed front suspension or put a lift kit on it or wrong front struts/springs on it. If its done wrong it would explain position of wheel? Have a look at struts etc to see if there are any part numbers left on them. VAG ones usually have a sticky plastic label. Not sure re aftermarket ones but the KYB springs on mine had a number etched into paint but its usually gone by the time you have to replace them.

Alasdair

 

you might be on to something actually. I won't have a chance to get the wheel off to have a proper look at the strut for part numbers until at least this weekend though. The previous owner was a mechanic, but I wonder if he just chucked any VAG parts on it that he had lying around and would fit even if the spring and/or damper rates were wrong.

 

 

Thanks for the replies everyone

@deadtom Did you find out what was the issue? I have a similar problem - at speeds after 30mph when accelerating the car wobbles. The wobbling is coming from rear right side. My local garage told me it is a driveshaft issue, changed that and additionally the bearing wheel. However, the problem is still there :(

Interestingly enough if I don't accelerate or let the car go in a free wheel mode the wobbling stops

Hi Albert,

Sadly no not yet, life has been hectic lately so I've not had a chance to get it back up on axle stands. We have a second car so I have just been avoiding using the Skoda as much as possible.

I hope to do have a look at it this weekend. I have been mulling it over though and it does have new front lower ball joints fitted by the previous owner, and the ball join mount plates look to be close but not quite symmetrical, so is it possible that left and right have been fitted the wrong way around? this may well explain why the front wheels are slightly set back in the arch and would almost certainly result in some weird handling due to slightly altering the steering geometry.

In other news the MOT is due in less than a week, so it's an important few days for the car

On my Octavia MK2 FWD the bottom ball joints are definitly left and right. When they are compared together there is a noticeable difference.

Well, I was all primed to come back here with good news; turns out that as suspected, the previous owner really had fitted the lower ball joints on the wrong way around!

Sadly having had new ball joints fitted (the correct way around), a new genuine Skoda OSF spring and damper (turns out the old spring had snapped, which must have been very near the end of the coil as I know these are prone to it and I have checked, as had another garage, but spring looked OK), both left and right inner and outer track rods and laser alignment done... it still drives like **** and wobbles around like jelly.

I am about fed up with the wretched thing. If it weren't for the £1000+ that I have poured into it recently I'd gladly drive it to a scrap yard myself and pay them to crush it while I watch just for the satisfaction of it. Sadly I am rich enough to do that (if I were I wouldn't be driving a 15 year old Skoda in the first place...) so can anyone advise on an approximate value for it in its current state?:

150k miles, 12 Months MOT, not particularly rusty and is in a fetching shade of green.

since I have had it (just under a year) as well as the above bits it's also had a new EGR, new rear dampers, new front discs and pads, NSF wheel bearing and CV joint, OSF brake caliper. When I bought it it also had nearly new rear springs, discs and pads.

it's recently started saying a service is due, however it's been less than a year on only 6500 miles since the last one. No idea when Haldex was last serviced, but it clearly works as it did a great job of carting us around the snowy highlands earlier this year.

Four matching Kumho Solus winter tyres, rears are down to only a few mm tread though.

AC doesn't work, probably the compressor that is kaput as the system holds pressure so sadly not just a regas needed.

I realise this isn't the right section for it, but wondering if it is even worth spending the time advertising it if It's only worth scrap?

The service light may be due to it being on a yearly service not mileage. If its only done 6500 since last one I would take a note of mileage and date and reset it. The fact it still drives with a wobble may be related to rear suspension. I have changed everything in the front and still have a wobble on mine but still have to tackle the rear. Check the tyres as well, I jacked my old Seat altea up as it had a weird wobble and lowered onto flat boards till they were just touching the tyres and rotated wheels. One had become misshapen slightly which was causing a wobble you felt through seat, You couldn't see any bulge etc with no cracking but it had become distorted and was slightly out of round. Tyre service said they get a lot of tyres like that especially Michelin As for value try we buy any car or similar and see what they come up with. If its got a years MOT then its got to be worth something.

Alasdair

Had another thought. My Go to Mot garage has a fairly high tech ramp that causes vibration/wobble etc to see if there is any wear in suspension etc. Might be worth seeing if anyone local has similar set up that could check yours over. MOT is about £50 so not the end of the world if they don't find anything but it might just pinpoint the problem.

Alasdair

@deadtom I'd agree with @Alasdair1 about the car being on annual service, which seems right if it's doing under 10_000 miles per annum.

Thank you both for the replies and suggestions, however what little affection I ever had for it has totally evaporated, so I just want it gone.

I'll stick a 'warts and all' advert up in the classifieds here (unless there is a minimum time / post count needed for new members that I haven't met yet) and ebay and just get it gone.