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Octavia 2. Identification of fuse pictograms on fuse card

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Has anyone got a translation of the pictograms. I can't find a web link

  • Author
1 hour ago, CrinklyDave said:

Has anyone got a translation of the pictograms. I can't find a web link

I have removed my dashcam wiring by unplugging it from the fusebox and now the engine will turn over and run for 2 seconds and stop,

The key will remotely open the doors, but the warning lights do not illuminate and i suspect i may have triggered the immobiliser.

Any suggestions?

To reset the immobiliser you must put the key in the ignition switch and turn it on. As you will have tried this then I suggest you try the second key.

Failing that, you have blown a fuse as I think you may be suggesting.

You don't need the pictograms as the handbook gives the function for each fuse.

You can download the handbook for each each model year from the sticky threads area before the posts.

Also you can download fuse functions and locations from sites such as this:

2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diag...
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2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diagram - StartMyCar

  • Author

Thank you.

Alas although I have a 2nd key the chip is no longer functional, and recognised by immobilizer.

Happened to me on a Seat Altea xl. I used the spare key and the imobilser didn't like it and came on. Problem was it wouldn't go off even with the other key. Tried everything and eventually left car for a good while with battery disconected. Charged battery and reconnected and it was back to normal again. AA guy scanned it when it happened and said it could be the ECU that may need reprogrammed or reset but he couldn't access any of the imobilser functions etc. Luckily it seemed to reset itself . If that doesnt work it may need someone with VCDS?

Alasdair

  • Author

Thank you.

I disconnected battery for an hour as recommended on another post, but without any obvious change.

Will try longer

Try touching the battery cables together and leave disconnected over night with battery on charge to make sure its fully 12.6V or higher. Some say it works others don't. Mine was left for a good few weeks over christmas newyear as we didn't need car and it sorted itself when reconnected with a fully charged battery. Its also a long shot or coincidence but it may be the chip reader coil at the ignition barrel thats failed or the transponder in your working key. I always meant to get someone with VCDS etc to remove imobilser from mine in case it happened again.

Alasdair

In case your keys have lost synchronisation, try this:

To resynchronise the key to the immobiliser,

1) from outside the car, press ANY button on the remote

2) then, within one minute, unlock the door from the outside using the KEY BLADE

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