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Help with new boot switch fitting

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HELP NEEDED!!

I have recently bought a 2014 Skoda superb, I have an issue with the boot switch which I need help with.

When I bought the car it was missing the internal boot closing switch for the electric boot, I didn't think much of it as I assumed it would be an easy fix, order a switch and fit it.

The issue I now have is I have the switch but where the switch should be is 4 loose wires with no connector, I have ordered the required 4 pin connector but how do I know which wire to connect to which pin on the switch, I have tried to find a wiring diagram without much luck, can anyone help?

The other issue I have is the boot does not operate as It should from the other switches, I was hoping this is caused by the missing switch and the loose wires causing an issue with the control unit but there is possibly more to it, when I operate the external switch the boot begins to open but then stops only a couple of inches open and beeps 3 times, presumably to indicate a fault. Could this be caused by a short circuit in one of the struts?

Can anyone shed some light on this if they have experienced similar issues?

Thanks

Good evening mate.

Regarding your second issue; do you have access to OBDeleven or VCDS to scan for possible error codes in the Deck Lid control unit - hex 6D?

the boot begins to open but then stops only a couple of inches open and beeps 3 times

In my Superb MK2, this only happens when the lid is obstructed from opening. Maybe an error code could shine light on this problem.

My first thought is that it seems odd that this would occur because of the switch.

where the switch should be is 4 loose wires with no connector

The reason I find it odd is because I believe two of the wires are for lighting the button up, and two of the wires are for the switch itself. I could be wrong though. I don’t see how the control unit would react like this to a short on any of these, as a short between the power wires would have nothing to do with the lid control, and a short between the switch wires would just make the lid go back down again. Maybe cross-shorts could lead to other things.

Again, a scan of the 6D module could shine light on the issue.

Because of faith, my boot lid started malfunctioning today. When trying to open it, it would unlatch, then make a long beep (the same one it makes when it is obstructed) before closing again.

So I opened OBDeleven, and it had stored fault codes in 6D regarding the Hall effect sensor for the #2 motor.

I checked the live data, and surely, when trying to open the boot, the #2 sensor reported the same value as when closed, contrary to sensor #1 which reported plausible values.

That made me understand that 6D thought that something was obstructing the right side of the lid (motor #2 is on the right side), since the reported position value didn’t change. Therefore it stopped and reversed.

At first I thought the sensor could be faulty, but after short research I found that the cables inside the harness that goes to the #2 motor often break. I unscrewed the #2 motor and disconnected the wires. I found that a yellow wire inside the rubber protector had broken. I took the whole thing inside and soldered the yellow wire, making sure to extend it a little, and when remounting the motor, the sensor now reports plausible values and the lid opens all the way.

The yellow wire had broken very close to the port on the motor, so soldering was very hard. I also saw other wires were becoming brittle, but didn’t want to cut and solder those because this would probably increase the thickness of the wire in that part such that the rubber wouldn’t go over it easily.

This video showed me the fault

and how to fix it:

Anyway, it works now.

Hope this helps someone, even if it doesn’t solve OPs problem.

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