Changed out my window regulator on drivers door and now every time I open the window fully it cancels auto open and close. Reset it using the hold up on the switch method and it works fine unless I ever let the window fully open and it stops working again. If it goes all the way up it will still do the auto function, so will go automatically down again, if I stop before fully open everything works as should.

Battery had a problem when doing it and I needed to jump it, just using the window loads whilst trying to lubricate option.

I would’ve done things like run the motor when not attached to the regulator.

Any help appreciated.

Edited 7 April, 20251 yr by Morph

Could be the battery. Check the voltage etc and put it on charge for a while and see if it improves. If its low on voltage it could be affecting motor and electronic controller.

Alasdair

6 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

Could be the battery. Check the voltage etc and put it on charge for a while and see if it improves. If its low on voltage it could be affecting motor and electronic controller.

Alasdair

Thanks for the reply, at 12.6v and just above when resting so the battery is good. I have a sneaky suspicion based on research that I need to recode something for the car to relearn where the bottom stop point is.

Edited 9 April, 20251 yr by Morph

3 minutes ago, Morph said:

Thanks for the reply, at 12.6v and just above when resting so the battery is good. I have a sneaky suspicion based on research that I need to recode something for the car to relearn where the bottom stop point is.

Just wondering if window reg is stiff near bottom and controller is switching from auto to manual as it thinks its jammed. I did my sons fabia and the controller/motor worked out where top and bottom was. I would doubt if you need for coding.

On 07/04/2025 at 13:10, Morph said:

Reset it using the hold up on the switch method and it works fine unless I ever let the window fully open and it stops working again. If it goes all the way up it will still do the auto function, so will go automatically down again, if I stop before fully open everything works as should.

Did you also do the hold reset at the fully open position? It needs doing at both limits.

As Alasdair1 said, friction in the slides etc will cause cause the motor to reverse. You can over ride this by pressing the button for original direction of travel within 10 seconds.

Here is what my handbook says:

The electrically operated power windows are fitted with a force limiter. It reduces

the risk of bruises or injuries when closing the windows.

If there is an obstacle, the closing process is stopped and the window goes down

by several centimetres.

If the obstacle prevents the window from being closed during the next 10 seconds,

the closing process is interrupted once again and the window goes down by

several centimetres.

You must try to close the window once again within 10 seconds after the window

has gone down twice, even if the obstacle was not yet removed, the closing process

is stopped. During this time it is not possible to automatically close the window.

The force limiter is still switched on.

The force limiter is only switched off, if you attempt to close the window within

the next 10 seconds – the window closes now with full strength!

If you wait longer than 10 seconds, the force limiter is switched on again.

I have followed all the variations banded about on the internet and such of reset procedures and still the same, works perfectly until you let the window open fully (at its lowest possible point) and then the automatic side stops. If I try and hold the window in the down position to reset it never works as this is where the failure point is. If i put it up and reset it both up and own options work again - I can open automatically all the way down again but if it gets to the very bottom, auto open and close stops again.

Was the replacement new, or second hand?

3 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Was the replacement new, or second hand?

Brand new - called ????? comfort.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/08cYhkr7inUI7mMvG2QSEOQgw

2 minutes ago, Morph said:

Brand new - called ????? comfort.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/08cYhkr7inUI7mMvG2QSEOQgw

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Was the replacement new, or second hand?

Only the regulator was changed, not the motor.

1 minute ago, Morph said:

Only the regulator was changed, not the motor.

Oh, sorry, I misunderstood.

I understand that I want to find a solution to a problem so you believe differing things but despite being way beyond me this extract from a forum seems plausible, any thoughts?

@MaticMD: Thanks for the auto-scan. I suspect (hope, really) that it might contain a plausible explanation for your window regulator problem - maybe?

So, from your auto-scan, here's a better view of the long-code strings on both your driver and passenger side door modules:

Byte	Driver-side	Driver-side	Passenger-side	Passenger-side
	Hex	Binary	Hex	Binary
0	00	00000000	00	00000000
1	11	00010001	11	00010001
2	03	00000011	01	00000001
3	20	00100000	20	00100000
4	00	00000000	0A	00001010
5	02	00000010	00	00000000
6	08	00001000	04	00000100
7	00	00000000	00	00000000
8	00	00000000	00	00000000
9	00	00000000	00	00000000
10	10	00010000	10	00010000
11	00	00000000	00	00000000

@downtime conversation about the module dataset is spot-on (I reckon). I've highlighted Byte 6 in the table above to show that there is an apparent difference between the coding of Driver/Passenger modules.

Now, normally different Byte values across both modules is not unusual on MQB platform vehicles, but the software switches on Byte 6 selects the window regulator Dataset that the module uses to control the "fast-glass".

Remembering that binary numbers are read from right-to-left and the right-most digit is Bit 0 - I hope you can agree with the following observations from the table above:

• on your Passenger-side module, Byte 6, Bit 2 is set- which means that the lower-nibble has a value hex04, which means that the module is using Window Regulator Dataset 1.

• on your Driver-side module, Byte 6, Bit 3 is set - which means that the lower-nibble has a value hex08, which means that the module is using Window Regulator Dataset Auto-recognition.

My suspicion (guess, really) is that the hex42 module might be having problems selecting the correct Dataset when in AUTO mode. I'm not sure why this might be happening. Perhaps, there is a degree of un-OEM-ness about this non-standard module that's causing confusion with this part of its operation (again, just a guess)

So - given your statement that the hex52 module is operating OK, it's probably safe to assume that Dataset 1 is also the appropriate protocol for the hex42 module.

Therefore, try changing Byte 6 on the hex42 module to hex04.

Don

PS: here's the relevant long-code helper screen FYI:

Resolution to this issue finally.

The new eBay comfort regulator has a little rubber grommet at the bottom of the front side runner as does a oem one, it wasn’t good enough meaning the window dropped a tiny bit further than it should, hence switching off the down one touch option. I glued a small piece of rubber on top of the original and it’s now all working again. Will it last!!??

My saga continues. The above worked for around a day but probably just a coincidence.

So I tried something out which was to reverse the actual physical motor and now the auto windows reset when at the top as opposed to the bottom confirming that it is either the motor itself or the control unit. Any idea's how to now work out which one is at fault moving forward?

Thinking motor swap with another door???

Ok. After a long time believing my window problem was caused by a new regulator (a comfort one as it was called). It turns out it was either the motor or the control unit. Turning the motor around made the issue do the opposite.

Currently without any odb reader/computer connection so had to do things the old fashioned way.

Bought an identical motor and control unit with all the numbers matching exactly, put it in and it works perfectly - was in reverse so turned the motor around again and all is good.

Still don’t know if it was the controller/coding issue or motor.

So in summary I changed the drivers side window regulator and at the same time something happened with the controller/coding/motor meaning my auto windows kept resetting.