Morph

There should be, lots of stories of people dropping it inside the door.

Undo the top a few turns and then begin undoing the bottom one a little at a time whilst pulling on the lock and it should pop out. I think I had trouble with the online guides because mine was stuck.

Piston not retracting correctly

By the looks of things I would probably be looking at doing the bearing housing (knuckle), bearing, sensor, splash guard and associated bits all at the same time.

Or maybe not 🤔

Ok so I decided to bleed the clutch as a slight possibility and because I was doing the brakes anyway. It seems that my clunking has gone. Fluid looked pretty s***ty when I first began to flush.

Apologies I think I remembered this from a Golf perhaps!!

Relay 458 in the engine bay could be the cause.

Thanks. Oil has been changed recently and is currently just seeping out of the fill hole. Both drive shafts are new from wheel to flange.

I have a klunk when changing gear (mainly low speed) and slightly when lifting off the gas. Diff shafts seal area’s are leaking slightly on both sides. In my limited knowledge and based on the below video I’m thinking stub axels and or diff bearings but I would like advice before buying the parts. The video is both drive shafts grabbed at the box and twisted back and forth. IMG_6242.mov

I’ve had 1 not working after removal. Didn’t have any ecu connection methods at the time. Took a punt that it might’ve got forgotten about as such (don’t know the correct terminology or cause but it worked) so I unplugged the module and plugged it back in and it worked again.

Yes paul many cross over parts as with all the marques across the VAG range but do your due diligence.

Pressure equalisation vents in behind the two sides of the rear bumper.

Any admin peoples who could move this post to say Ask a Tech page?

https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk2-1z-2005-2008-fuse-box-diagram/amp