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Time for a new DPF, clean or a delete?

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Octavia Scout 2015, 2.0TDI 184HP, 325.000km

Hello folks! I just need to get something confirmed: Is my DPF done?

So.. Practically every time i drive it it regenerates, and the fan is blowing for 3-10 minutes after stopping 9/10 times. I'ts in use almost every day, but is driven only for 10 minutes at the time for one week, and then 1h at the time every day the other week. I'm suspecting I will have reduced motor power in a not very long time.

I did a readout of adv. values in VCDS:

Oil ash mass: 80,3g

Oil ash mass limit: 80.00g

Fuel consumption since last regen: 4,45l

Time since last regen: 9772s (2,7h)

Photos of relevant readouts attached.

Any disadvantages of getting a DPF-delete? I live in Norway, and removing it will practically make it illegal. But very unlikely to be discovered, until it becomes a regular check-point in the EU-control.

Should I just buy a new one? Used one? Any point in getting a DPF-clean?

Any reccomandations will be appreciated.

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I think you have kind of answered your own question here.

You need to do a LONG LONG run. A 10 min journey with a TDI is like death to it. It won't survive.

Take the car on a minimum 100 mile journey - develop a heavy right foot and give the car some BEANS. (check the oil/coolant before you head off though).

Plenty of foot flat to the floor. I also suggest filling up the car with some super diesel if possible.

The engine needs to get frantically HOT and for a period of minimum of 20-30 mins for a full regen. A long journey at least once a week will help save your Scout.

P.S. don't do a DPF delete. In most countries, it's not allowed and causes problems passing state testing/MOT testing etc

  • Author

Yes, I wish i could do that more often, but i live a place with rural winter roads and no highways, and driving it hard like that is not risk free. Id rather change the dpf than have a totalled car.

I did several long hauls with a 2t trailer (1200km++) this summer, but it didn't change anything on its behaviour, so im guessing it might be too late already.

I get the dpf warning light now and then, and been doing so for about a years time, and did exactly what you suggested on dry summer roads.

Ill see if I can find something to aid the dpf regen to make it last a little longer, at least until i can replace it.

I can only offer advice based on my expereince with DPF and EGR valve problems I've had since buying my 2016 Mk 3 vrs diesel at 145,000 miles earlier this year.

I had to replace my DPF because the original one was full of ash and the electronics kept trying to regen. Because the ash content was too high, it showed a variety of codes/warning lights and eventually went into limp mode. All sorted now with new EGR valve cooler and DPF, pus assorted sensors, gaskets, etc. With a bit of internet research, I found the service life of these components (and the turbo) is around 120,000 - 150,000 miles after which they need to be replaced. You look to have done considerably more than this and the ash content of your DPF is at the maximum. Bite the bullet and have it changed and at the same time consider a new turbo because if the oil seal fails, DPF will be choked in minutes.....

  • Author

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds very expensive to change turbo and EGR along with the DPF, the total is sneaking up on the value of the car for parts an labour here in Norway :( I could do it myself.. but i only have short time acess to a garage with a lift at work.

The EGR and Turbo on theese will require the whole front travers assembly and gearbox to be lovered, right?

I could take out the DPF and deliver it at a specialist to get it cleaned, but i suspect that will also only be temporary.

Today I did a longer drive, Though only 2x60 km, low gear, for the most part between 70-90 km/h, and measured the oil ash mass again, still over 80g. I even added some DPF clean additive to the diesel tank before the drive (Even though I strongly suspect this additive is snake oil).

If you introduce a little Cetane into the fuel, then you will get better fuel consumption. Proved that theory over 50,000 diesel miles on my previous Scout. Super Diesel tends to improve the burn rate; most low sulphur diesel fuels don't have any cetane in them. The key (as previously discussed) is long, fast run and getting the car nice and hot.

I can only support the practice of long runs to get the system hot. I'm fortunate that I regularly drive 75 miles or more at motorway speeds, and the stop-start works well with regen fairly infrequent.

I sometimes tip in a bottle of DPF cleaner, but as you say, I'm not convinced by its efficacy.

Edited by BionicJohn

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

So, for anyone finding this in the future:

Oil ash can not be removed by regnerating and will build up a little more by every regen. You need to have the dpf professionally cleaned (it needs to be removed from the car) or replaced.

If the car is using oil, its practically pointless doing anything about it, because your new dpf will only be filled with oil aah again. With some luck, an egr clean and new turbo can reduce oil usage enough for it to live significantly longer.

For me, thats more expensive than a new used car.

Good luck to us all.

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12 minutes ago, Steinrawr said:

Oil ash can not be removed by regnerating and will build up a little more by every regen. You need to have the dpf professionally cleaned (it needs to be removed from the car) or replaced.

Well said.

13 minutes ago, Steinrawr said:

With some luck, an egr clean and new turbo can reduce oil usage enough for it to live significantly longer.

Would you mind elaborating on why you think cleaning the EGR might reduce oil usage, please?

  • Author
35 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Would you mind elaborating on why you think cleaning the EGR might reduce oil usage, please?

Ah, English is not my first language. I listed things a little quick and changed the sentence without realising i wrote the egr too.

AS far as i know the egr doesn't affect oil usage, but when youve first accessed it to do work on the turbo and dpf, theres no point in not adressing it as it is common to get clogged.

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I see. That makes good sense.

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