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Octavia 1.6tdi CR 2011 105cv vibrations and coolant loss

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Hello, i have bought this car and drove it home from 1000km away.

Indi bigniging the coolant bottle was a little over max and once arrived home it was under min.

Also, while engine is cold it shakes "too" violently (idling) in my opinion, it is just a 1.6tdi and shakes worse than my 2.0tdi.

Then, while driving it keeps shaking on low rpm, the whole car shakes. You can feel it in your hands on the wheel and seat. Also it feels like low power.

Once you go above 1800-2000rpm the shaking is gone and engine feels quite more powerful.

Also while driving, the temperature gauge never goes beyond 90 (thats great!) But it keeps going up and down like crazy between 50 and 90.

But while idling the car reaches 90 and stays stable.

I own VCDS and also AUTOCOM CARS, is there any place where i can find the "normal" values for all parameters?

Autocom shows me real time values and max/min since the start of session, but no idea what the normal values should be.

I have searched individually online for some of the parameters and they seem correct, but there are 160+ data channels and it is hell in earth to search for every one individually.

Examples of autocom data looked into:

injection quantity compensation is acceptable, all injectors correcting +-2mg/stroke

turbo pressure at idle stays around 1000mbar and 1700mbar+- at 2500rpm.

Mass air flow intake round 250 units (don't remember exact unit lol).

EGR goes from around 5% idle to 95% full throttle

DPF soot quantity OK (i recall around 15gr)

DPF differential pressure ok (around 10mbar idle and 25mbar 2500rpm)

Physical tests done:

Dropping the clutch from 2-5th gear on idle shuts the engine off, so it looks like its working properly and not slipping at least from idle (though I noticed some bad smell around 1800rpm while driving, could be clutch disk or exhaust fumes?coolant?not sure)

Pumped 1.2psi into coolant bottle and there was some pressure loss ~5 seconds after pumping

Disconnecting injector 1 or 3 and there is no change in idle speed/engine shake etc

Disconnecting injector 2 or 4 engine shuts off.

Anyone know where can i find "normal " values for all channels on autocom?

I have been told these cars have some silicate bags in the coolant bottle and over time they break/dissolve, mixing with the liquid and sticking to thermostat (mine seems blocked open?), heater radiator (not my case, heater works properly), water pump (what symptoms?)

How do i check if these bags are fine, is it safe to remove them completely? If not,solution is replacing with a new coolant bottle and how do i clean the whole system of this gunk before replacing it?

Thanks everyone and sorry for the long post. Let me know if you need anything else.

The ones with silicate bag I think have Mit Silikat on the tank and the tanks I think have a double skinned section. Have you scanned with vcds and are there any fault codes at all?

Alasdair

  • Author
10 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

The ones with silicate bag I think have Mit Silikat on the tank and the tanks I think have a double skinned section. Have you scanned with vcds and are there any fault codes at all?

Alasdair

I believe my vcds might be faulty because 0 codes found

In autocom i did get some when checking the car before buying, then erased them and no more faults afterwards.

P020300 injector circuit cyl3,intermitent

P101F00 high pressure fuel system,max pressure exceeded,intermitent.

From these codes P020300 it may be number 3 injector thats failing or a wiring fault to it. The other code I think relates to MAF. If its rough idling try and disconnect MAF. Sometimes if the MAF is bad the idling will improve if disconnected. May be difficult to tell if you have a misfire on no 3.

Is your VCDS cable genuine? Not sure if you can swap injectors around to check like coil packs as I think they are coded individually to engine

Alasdair

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