Loss of Power / Flat Spots 110 TDi

[securespark]

Hi. Have done a (quick) search.

Have an 02 Elegance Estate with 50K, and am recently suffering sluggish acceleration and occasional flat spots (before changing gear). These feel like topping out in my work van (which is limited), so anyone who drives similar will know that feeling....

I'm sure there are multiple causes, but which shall I try first? The cheapest ones, I guess?

Do I need to interrogate the ECU to get fault codes?

[TeflonTom]

it's ceratainly worth getting the faults (if any) checked out.....

but it sounds like a dodgey MAF sensor to me, or the actuator on the turbo is sticky

[Ultimo]

That happened on my old Octy, turned out to be a sticking actuator on the turbo.

We had to open it and clean it, and then back to normal again. You can get access to it from underneath the car (difficult tho) Pull off the vacuum hose and try the movement. If it doesnt move, its probably sticking vanes in the turbo itself. Hopefully not, a new turbo is exspensive!

[ap0gee1978]

According to honestjohn, you could be looking at one of the following:

[*]sticking turbo due to dirty oil;

[*]dirty or faulty mass airflow sensor;

[*]exhaust gas recirculation solenoid valve sticking open;

[*]wastegate valve actuator rod sticking;

[*]faulty throttle switches;

[*]faulty temperature sensor;

[*]loose or leaking brake servo pipe;

[*]turbo boost pipe from fuel pump to turbo;

[*]faulty ECU;

[*]faulty Relay 109 (if it's white it needs to be replaced with a new spec relay coloured grey, costs

[mbames]

Where does relay 109 live?

[cheezemonkhai]

Relay 109 - Main Power Supply Fuse - TDIClub Forums

TDI FAQ

(Under your drivers wheel)

I thought old one was black new one grey myself.

It was my impression that they usually result in the car cutting out rather than just being lame

[mbames]

I'll have a look in the day light - it seems to control enough things (as from TDI club):

It supplies power to

- Glow plug relay

- Fuse 32

ECM

Fuel quantity adjuster

- Fuse 34

Cold start injector

Waste gate bypass regulator valve (N75)

Change over valve (N239)

EGR vacuum regulator valve (N18)

Mass air flow sensor (G70)

- Fuse 43

Clutch vacuum vent valve (if equipped)

Brake vacuum vent valve

Relays for preheating coolant (if equipped)

Crankcase ventilation heating element

The ECM supplies power (and sometime ground as well) for:

Fuel cutoff valve

Cruise control switch

Manifold (intake) air pressure/Intake air temperature sensor

Needle lift sensor

Engine speed sensor

Engine coolant sensor

Closed throttle position switch (part of "go" pedal)

Kickdown switch (part of "go" pedal)

Throttle position switch (part of "go" pedal)

Fuel temperature sensor

Modulating piston displacement sensor

[TeflonTom]

can i make the suggestion that your get the fault momory interrogated before you go pulling relays

[mbames]

I have vag-com, and it generally shows no faults when my turbo decides not to work....

[securespark]

Cheers, guys.

I shall have a think on this one. I'll get a mate with the right kit to interrogate the ECU, then take it from there. The turbo seems a good place to start, if the codes are not conclusive.

My wife said the other day it felt a bit like driving into a strong wind. It might be a while, but I'll let you know what we find!

Thanks again.

Just one thing - Where is this relay again??

[mbames]

My wife said the other day it felt a bit like driving into a strong wind. It might be a while, but I'll let you know what we find!

I'll look forward to that.... as I still have not solved my turbo problems.

[cheezemonkhai]

Relay is in the relay panel under the steering wheel.

IIRC it is three screws with torx heads to remove it on the newer ones.

Stupid disclaimer, but make sure you don't have power to the ignition when doing any of this.

[securespark]

I'll look forward to that.... as I still have not solved my turbo problems.

Now he tells me!!

Thanks, cheeze...

[brooky]

Hi every1, please bear with me this is my 1st ever posting.

I have a 110 tdi octavia elegance on a 2001 that has a fault like the ones described but it feels as tho its running just as a plain diesel ie, sluggish. But if you pull over switch off and start back up it seems to reset and is off like a shot.

Any ideas cos it seems to be getting a bit more frequent now so want to get it sorted before it goes completely.

Cheers for any help.

[cheezemonkhai]

Sounds like a sticking turbo, although the MAF could make the car run odd to. If the car runs properly then goes sluggish after you have just booted it, I would suggest the turbo. There are also sensors of course.

I would suggest getting somebody near you to read the disagnostic codes with VAG-COM to point you in the right direction.

The turning it off and back on again would clear the overboost error and allow the car do go. I would suggest that if you don't have an aftermarket warrenty on your car now might be a good time to consder one as a turbo replacement can be up to £1000.

On the plus point there is a way to clean the turbo, which may help. If you do a search on here for "sticky turbo" you should find it.

HTH

[Ultimo]

Hi every1, please bear with me this is my 1st ever posting.

I have a 110 tdi octavia elegance on a 2001 that has a fault like the ones described but it feels as tho its running just as a plain diesel ie, sluggish. But if you pull over switch off and start back up it seems to reset and is off like a shot.

Any ideas cos it seems to be getting a bit more frequent now so want to get it sorted before it goes completely.

Cheers for any help.

See my previous post in this thread. Try to check the actuator on the turbo (and keep your fingers crossed!

[mbames]

That happened on my old Octy, turned out to be a sticking actuator on the turbo.

We had to open it and clean it, and then back to normal again. You can get access to it from underneath the car (difficult tho) Pull off the vacuum hose and try the movement. If it doesnt move, its probably sticking vanes in the turbo itself. Hopefully not, a new turbo is exspensive!

I had a quick crawl under the car earlier and I could hardly get any movement on the actuator arm. Granted I did not remove the vacuum pump, but the car has not moved since Friday and therefore I assumed that pipe removal would not have much affect... or should I have pulled the pipe off and then tried? However Westover Skoda assured me that there was full movement in the vanes...... *

Anyway the tray is back on so I can't try that now - I knew I should have checked on here first! But at least my air con pump has not fallen to bits (which is why I was checking!).

Oh and mine had have the new coloured 109 relay....

--

* that was after they had taken the turbo off the car and checked it - but I am not sure they actually did!!!

[Ultimo]

I had a quick crawl under the car earlier and I could hardly get any movement on the actuator arm. Granted I did not remove the vacuum pump, but the car has not moved since Friday and therefore I assumed that pipe removal would not have much affect... or should I have pulled the pipe off and then tried? However Westover Skoda assured me that there was full movement in the vanes...... *

Anyway the tray is back on so I can't try that now - I knew I should have checked on here first! But at least my air con pump has not fallen to bits (which is why I was checking!).

Oh and mine had have the new coloured 109 relay....

--

* that was after they had taken the turbo off the car and checked it - but I am not sure they actually did!!!

You have to remove the vacuum-hose to try the movement, otherwise the actuator itself gives too much resistance. Try this the next time you are under the car! ( And dont forget to put the hose back on!)

[mbames]

iirc, on the vacuum hose there is a little metal clip that helps to hold the hose on - I assume that will just slide back into place without the need of any tools? I could not really see what I was doing - most of it was done by feel.

If I were to attach a spare hose, would I be able to suck hard enough to make the movement move? I am trying to work much reistance I would feel either by moving it by hand, or by sucking to generate a vacuum?

(if I get the bathroom decorated this week, I might be granted time back under the car over the weekend!)

[Ultimo]

You may as well disconnect the hose in the other end, it is possibly more easy!

[mbames]

I had not got as far as tracing the other end of the pipe... but if I wanted to checked to see if the mechanism moved I'll probably have to be under the car anyway....

[snail]

Hi every1, please bear with me this is my 1st ever posting.

I have a 110 tdi octavia elegance on a 2001 that has a fault like the ones described but it feels as tho its running just as a plain diesel ie, sluggish. But if you pull over switch off and start back up it seems to reset and is off like a shot.

Any ideas cos it seems to be getting a bit more frequent now so want to get it sorted before it goes completely.

Cheers for any help.

We had the same problems with our 110tdi,turbo was over boosting and cutting it out,pull over stop and restart and it was fine.Skoda dealer changed both valves on the bulkhead

and the fault was still there.Changed turbo and it never missed a beat since,but they are very expensive to have replaced:finger:

[mbames]

.Skoda dealer changed both valves on the bulkhead

and the fault was still there.Changed turbo and it never missed a beat since,but they are very expensive to have replaced:finger:

n75 value ont he bulkhead - not sure what the other one is though. I have had the n75 done, and a replacement turbo... and at least some of the time I get to experience the turbo (maybe a once a week )

[cheezemonkhai]

Mat daft question, but is the little pipe that goes onto the airbox and to the N75 connected ok?

[mbames]

mmm, I am sure I have checked it in the past.. but i'll have a look later when it stops raining. Infact is it raining so much in sunny weymouth that the roof on the larder at the back of the house is leaking :-(

The n75 is the one of the right isn't it?