As you are standing infront of the car facing the engine then the N75 is on the right IIRC. I noticed a little pipe there on mine the other day while trying to work out what else has gone wrong with my bleeding car.

Hello again!

I promised I would let you know what the outcome was. Well, it seems a very strange one. Either the problem found was causing the faults I described or it was completely unrelated, but either way the performance problems have never reappeared.

As I described earlier, the car appeared on occasion to accelerate sluggishly, as if in a strong headwind.

After my posting, it also started behaving strangely in another way: when accelerating hard in first, the revs would drop off sharply, followed by a few seconds of almost no response from the throttle. Imagine driving an old carb-fed petrol-engined car in winter having started it from cold with the choke in.

We took it to a main dealer who found worn wheel bearings on the f/n/s. Since their replacement, it has never faltered!

What do you make of that?

Welcome to the world of a 110TDi.

I'm on my second, had this problem with my first one, but could never find the fault.

Everyone who tried failed.

The engines are great in my opinion, and after this one, may even get another.

Chris

Just a thought, but has anyone had this problem on a 110TDi that has been remapped.

Every problem I hear of like this is on a standard car. Never heard of it on a Remapped 110.

Chris

Much easier at the top end, once i had traced it up and knew which hose to disconnect!

I had a similar problem that got so bad it would not pull 40MPH up a motorway incline. Then had stating problems. I changed the MAF and it was much better.

Some time ago, I tried the silicon grease on the electrical connections on the MAF trick with my 90bhp. Cost nowt, as I had some grease lying around but it did seem to yield a bit of a performance improvement in terms of smoothing things out a bit.

Ok, long time no post, but I thought I'd update you.

The problem did come back a long time later. Let's just say that I still have not got to the bottom of it but I'm living with it. I suspect, like some of you have implied, it's the turbo.... :(

As I said, I'll live with it. But a very belated thanks for all your suggestions.

The problem did come back a long time later. Let's just say that I still have not got to the bottom of it but I'm living with it. I suspect, like some of you have implied, it's the turbo.... :(

Pop off the vacuum pipe between the n75 and the actuator on the turbo and suck on it - see if you can get a nice smooth travel on the control rod on the turbo. If you have slender arms you can get your arm down from above, otherwise you might have to pop the undertray off and get under the car.

I have decided that mine is caused by a vacuum leak.

The lack of vacuum causes the actuator on the turbo not to much full travel (so it rusts up and makes the situation worse).

I have varsty improved mine my sucking/blowing through the the 3 pipes on the n75 valve and also fixing a the rigid vacuum pipe which had a split in it (the pipe which runs across the bulk head to the break servo (see pic below).

Once the engine has been running for a new minutes, stop it, open the bonnet (somewhere quiet) and wiggle the pipes to see if you can hear a vacuum leak.....

Edited 14 August, 201114 yr by mbames