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What Mods Are Worth Doing?

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Excellent, excellent, excellent!!

Many thanks for that, perhaps that should be made a sticky in 'My Performance' ?

Shame about the thread title which you obviously tried to edit to make it a staement and not a question. Hopefully a useful thread. What about if I want to go further and build the ultimate Octavia with a money no object approach?

How about thoughts on anti-roll bars and strut braces, or do they come in the 'money no object' follow-up along with Quaife diffs, sequential gearchanges, 6 speed boxes and FMICs? And shouldn't exhausts be in the original piece since they are a common early upgrade? Oh, and did I forget to say that the original piece is a typically thorough summary of options and conclusions which merits serious consideration for those embarking on the slippery slope? Well done as usual to YKWYA! :D

Jon, you're being a bit hard on Real Skoda. He is after all trying to do his best for us. :(

Thanks Pete. Very useful

I totally agree with Huck's idea of making it a sticky.

My request now: how about a similar thread for Fabia vRSes? ;) I'll happily contribute to that as soon as money appears again. Just spent my life savings, so donations are most welcome :D

maybe a coment about tyre size on vRS 205/50 or 225/45 which is best etc

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keep it coming...this is gold dust!

Me thinks the Real Skoda collective have been busy boys! :D

Seems like lots of experimentation has been going on and its useful to have a definitive list to work from if I ever decide to modify my car ;)

Thanks to whoever made it sticky!

Kenny,

205/50 or 225/45

It depends on what you want. Some will say that the 45 profile will give a worse ride. This is a fallacy as the 2 sizes have a remakably similar rolling diameter as 45 is not a distance but a ratio between width and height (in this case the height of a 205 will be 50% of its width ie 102.5 and the 225 will be 101.25, so a 1.25mm difference in sidewall height). This does not lead to a massive increase in sidewall stiffness, contrary to popular belief.

Anyway, enough rambling, which is better, answer is neither! They are as good as each other, for different things. The main reason that people are going for the 225 is that it is cheaper and more readily available. When released the 205/50 17 was primarily a Porsche specific tyre size and dealers charged accordingly, whereas the 225 was common to a lot of marques. Things have improved since the 307 came along, as well as quite a few others.

The main benefit from the 225, in performance terms (at least in the dry) is that it has a bigger footprint on the road due to its width.

More important than the size, there are 2 other factors to consider.

1. The load rating of the tyre. This is a fixed measure and deals with the deformity of the sidewall under a given load. A 94W will deform less than a 89W as it is build to withstand a greater weight for a given amount of deformation.

2. The tyre compound. This is harder to find out and there are no real clues, apart from reading up. A softer tyre will grip better than a hard one, but will also wear out quicker. A clue to this can be found in the treadwear rating on the side of the tyre. In my experience, if you multiply that number by 100 it will give you, very roughly the number of miles you can expect from a set. It'll also give you an idea of how soft the tyre is (although it is complicated by the actual tread depth when new) for example P Zero C Dry compound have a wear index of 80, Toyos are about 220, Contis are 240 Rossos are 220 Neros are 240 ZZ3s are about 320 ;)

Narrow tyres have a better resistance to aquaplaning and are better in snowy/icy conditions, but don't generate as much grip when it is dry.

Sorry its a bit disjointed, but I hope it helps in some way (probably not though as it doesn't give a definitive answer)

cheers mate the info you have given is well appreciated. what tyres do u run?

god.....i can see its gona cost me a fortune to replace my tyres then!

Very good... :thumbup:

So does the full Milltek really only come for the RS? How about a Milltek cat downpipe and custom mid-section and backbox for one of the 4x4 guys to try and test?

That is on more than 1 car, in case you hadn't guessed :D

Oh, and forgot the P Zero C Dry in 245/40 18 :rolleyes:

Think you'd only need the part that would go over the rear axle, but I haven't looked underneath one. If I see one, I'll walk underneath and have a look :D

Great thread, have to make time to read slowly & absorb.

Stuart

I wonder where he gets all his info from, hmm.

Des

You KNOW where he gets it all from...you just don't know/realise it.;)

Pete i think the dry tyre size might have been 245/35/18 but i am being picky..

you also forgot to mention splitters / wings / weight saving and cages....

:)

Excellent thread. Well done to 'all' involved. Everything in one place and possibly regularly edited to take into account our test pilots experiences?

Again, well done.:cheers:

Ecellent :thumbup: stuff!

An incredible piece of work! But what about seeing where you are going at speed in the dark? And what about decent pads and brake fluid to go with the super duper brake upgrades, or even as a standalone mod as has been recommended for a first step to improved braking? Also are the standard seats suitable for the side forces generated when cornering at speed? :rolleyes:

So do 225/45's fit onto the standard Tavia vRS rims?

Steve

Steve , yes they certainly do .

No rubbing on the suspension struts or body?

Steve

not unless you run "51@anglesey" spec suspension geometry.

in which case anything rubs.. i blame the testpilot who didnt know the difference between blacktop and green stuff.

No rubbing on the suspension struts or body?

Steve

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