After much trama, tiredness and tears finally bought my vRS. Will be picking it up on wednesday.

Black 02 plate.

Now need to get mods sorted. Few questions.

1, considering getting it chipped at jabbasport, how detectable are their chips, anyone had any experience?

2, Anyone got any ideas about audio upgrade? Whats best, for now just considering speaker upgrades if ness.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Trust me. You will love it!

I even enjoy the little bit of turbo lag. It gives you enough time to get just the right sort of grin before taking off in a Skoda!

Rich,

Join the club . You will never, ever, ever look back!

This is all IMHO, but...

1. No matter what the chip / remap / whatever you want to call the thing, it will be detectable to your dealer. This may or may not be a warranty problem. Some dealers are fans but I get the impression that others stick their noses in and don't approve :nono: . I spoke to John at MAXY P who has the APR setup and he told me that he has had his serviced with NO probs. Jabba are boys :yes:

2. This has been [i:cae56729c3]well[/i:cae56729c3] covered within the walls of this hallowed website if you do a search. Personally, I did the tweeter and waterproof cutting trick, then wanted more. So I stuck in my set of OZ components that travel with me from car to car :speaker: . Then needed more VOL so changed the head unit. Then wanted a bit of bass, so stuck in an amp and sub then wired up the fronts to go through the amp. I left the rears to run through the head unit as they only serve to fill in the sound at the rear of the car. It's worth going to town on the front speakers as the general consensus is that the Mids and Highs should project from in front of you as they would at a Gig / Festival / Through your home HIFI 8)

went on test drive today. very good fun :flame:

wont be chipping this car in near future, it v fast already.

car has done 7000 miles.

tyres dont look that great, i mean bit worn. what do u guys average per set :?:

Got mine last Thursday.What a machine!!!

I changed my front tyres after 21K miles.

If they were that bad after 7K, I would question on how that car has been driven.

Killed my first set in 24,000 miles. Subsequent sets have lasted about 12,000 :mrgreen:

I had pretty much made up my mind to get my vRS APRed. It was the switchability onthe fly that did it for me plus recommendations from Colin and Huck.

However I did worry about detectability of it seeing as a new lead is connected from the ECU to APRs EMCS (I think thats the right acronym :scratch: ).

Then came along REVO to confuse everything. They can reprogram your ECU throught serial diagnostic port and nobody would know; not even if you opened up the ECU box. You would really have to look at the code!

The only down side seems to be how you change between programs; APR was simply using the crusie control stalk. With REVO you have some device that you choose the program on then you stick it in the diagnostic port (this is what I can gather from the web site anyway).

It does have a good security feature though. You can lock out the ECU so it can be driven.

There are quite a few guys on the SeatCupraNet who've had their cars REVOed.

Don't know what's the relationship between APR and REVO (they are different companies) but the seems to have the same dealer network (may be marketed through the same company?).

They are about the same in price and quite expensive (around

Hmm a difference of opinion

1) Chip spotting

This is what I have been told by my dealer

A chip is not detectable by the VAG com tool they use.

It can only be detected by one

a) Driving and the grin on the mechanics face :lol:

or

Removal of the wipers, scuttlepanel and compartment etc to physically SEE the new chip.........now why would they be doing that :?:

As for the stereo

The adaptor from blue spot does sort out wiring differences i believe

again speaking to my dealer they opt for removal of ANY aftermarket radio to play safe so they dont blow their diagnostic tool (expensive)

All the problems result from the 12 v feed down the K wire

IMHO its the only downfall of an otherwise great car

Have a blast

Hi Karl,

thanks for clearing up the wire adapter issue; it was beginning to do my head in. :roll:

I undestand what mean about the technicians returning after the test drive and grinning. If you can switch to the stock ECU settings then they'd be none the wiser. 8)

Now just got to get my head round whether:

a) get the head unit now.

or

put the readies towards remap.

Decision, decisions. So much to do and so little money to do it with. :mrgreen:

Cheers.

Adrian.

this post should now read vRS comes thursday. :evil:

oh well good things come to those who wait.

turbo lag ? i didn't really notice it.

please bear in mind i've been driving a 740i for past eight months.

Tyres think i may be a bit para on this, theres prob bout another 7000 miles on them, but i do tend to change early.

As far as the stero is concerned, will try speaker trick eg cut flap in lining. and dicionnect the tweeters, if still not happy speaker upgrade.

In my opinion dont waste time with cutting the flap the problem is the quality of the speakers. ( Paper cones :shock: )

Definetly replace the Fronts with a shallow depth replacement a reasonable quality replacement can be had for sub

I'm (still!) looking at replacing my front speakers, and have found some

nice Pioneer ones that are "shallow basket". However, within this

range there are some cheaper ones that are just the basic 17cm driver,

while some more expensive ones in the range have tweeters in the cone

as well.

I was just wondering if anyone knows...is there any point in getting the

more expensive ones? I'm guessing the tweeter just increases the range

of frequencies the unit can handle, but if there's a crossover and so

all frequencies over a certain point go through the existing door tweeter,

surely the one on the new unit will not be utilised?

Also, with regard to the wiring - are there any tidy clip things that can be

used rather than a soldering iron? I don't own a soldering iron and even

if I did, a 4 year old could do a better job with it than me. But I don't

have a 4 year old either... :lol:

Rob.

OK

You are correct in what you are saying but why use the existing door tweeter at all when the new more expensive one has one

I used these

http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.asp?ProdId='REF652I'&Ser=REF&Cat=MEL

excellent sound, Didnt need to use a soldering iron just removed the existing connections to the OEM speaker and reinstalled to the New one

Basically a 10 minute job, just remove the original speake grille , fit new speaker and reinstall OEM speaker grille

:lol:

Karl,

Those speakers look good, and 60 quid from Halfords isn't bad at

all! :scratch:

I know what you mean about wanting to use the new tweeter in

preference, but if the crossover which determines which unit receives

which frequencies is in the amplifier, then the new tweeter wouldn't

get used? Or am I talking :poo: again? :roll:

Rob.

If you get component speakers with a passive crossover you don't need an amp.

The passive crossover would also (I think) have pre-determined frequencies selected. So no twiddling around etc.

Cheers.

Adrian.

Adrian,

Poor explanation on my part, I meant the amp in the headunit...

Good point on the passive crossover, I should've noticed that bit

first... :roll:

I might just buy them, stick them in and see what happens...

Rob.

Rob

You wont regret it, give them a little time to bed in I havent regretted them at all.

And putting the 6x9 in the parcel shelf adds a nice bass tone to finish it all off with a new HU.

http://www.bluespot.co.uk/stock/woodstock.asp

To be honest unless you want serious sounds there is no need to go any further by adding amp etc( Ok I did )

I seem to remember that the tweeters have a very basic built-in crossover -there's a capacitor soldered across them. While I had Alpine speakers in mine (with coaxial tweeters) it didn't seem to upset the existing tweeters (although I had the rears disconnected). I was thinking about disconnecting the fronts, but never got around to it. By the way, if you pull the rear tweeters, make sure you secure the cable somehow -mine fell down between the door liner and the vapour barrier, and caused a really annoying rattle.

Phil :speaker: :speaker: :speaker: :speaker: :speaker: :speaker:

To be honest unless you want serious sounds there is no need to go any further by adding amp etc( Ok I did )[/quote:ce2ec11ebb]

Nah, I'm not really after serious sounds, I just want to be able to hear

music when the engine's revving over 4.5k

Cheers for the advice on securing the cable Phil, that's the sort of thing

I'd forget to do too... :roll:

Rob.

OK, so now I'm hijacking the thread, but I think it's still kind of on

topic

I now have a nice set of Infinity 652I speakers. I have also removed

the old OEM speaker from my passenger door - the connector on this

is a four pronged "block", into which two plugs (each connecting to two

prongs) from the door plug in to.

However, on the back of my Infinity are just two prongs, one for -ve

and one for +ve.

So it's more than likely I'm just being a bit clueless, but I really can't

see how to connect the two plugs from the door onto the speaker?! :roll:

Help much appreciated as ever!

Rob.

Rob,

I seemed to remember cutting the blocks off and replaced them with female spade connectors to allow you to attach them to the new speakers. I think I also did this for the OE tweeter connections.

I would say though that I did this to my previous Octavia 2 years ago so I may be just talking :poo: .

If this IS what you have to do remember to leave yourself enough cable to make the connection.

Hope this helps...I'm sure someone will give you a definitive answer.

Cheers.

Adrian.

Again If my memory serves me right :idea:

The layout is similar to the rear speakers ie

there are 2 sets of connectors one for tweeters one for main component

So if you want to disconnect tweeters either front or rear you merely unplug one set of connectors ( trial and error as to which on :?: )

Hope that helps

Oh and the connectors I think are audi speaker connections you can either cut them and re apply spade terminals although I do think someone does a connector adaptor for these audi plugs, try an internet search

Cheers for the advice - there are some adaptors I've seen for Golf

Mk4s and Passats (97 onwards) which have a flat plug containing four

prongs, and these lead to two spades connectors.

It looks like it would work, and even just to cut the originals and put

spades on looks easy enough. However, Halfords are charging 10.99

for the VW adaptor kit, which contains some mounting plates and that

as well, so it's more than what I need.

Was planning to order a connector off the net for <