One week gone in my new vRS and no problems. The stutter is there but it doesn't bother me.

Anyway, remembering cars I've had in the past, I wondered if an oil change is needed after 1,500 miles or so. The salesman said no and advised that the first service is due at 10,000 but obviously keep an eye on the oil level etc.

What do you guys recommend for oil changes ?

10k recommended ( no need for oil to be changed at 1.5k)

Use the PD oil to VW 505 01 spec

Personally, as the car will be serviced by an independent, I'll be having oil and filter changes at around 8k (as the engine is about the most expensive 'bit' if it goes).

Personally, I would change the oil and filter on any new car after 500 miles. The reason being this is the initial bedding in process, when parts are mated, pistons in bores etc. As a consequence, this is when the most swarf / filings are created and need removing asap, otherwise they will be swimming around in the oil causing abrasion, the filter will not remove all of them . They will tell you 10,000 miles but that suits them for fleet sales the longer the service interval the more attractive there product seems. They also know that any problems are unlikely to manifest themselfs inside of the warranty period. On a purely engineering point it should be changed after 500 miles regardless of their blurb. I would thereafter change the oil and filter every 5-6,000 miles. It is the most expensive part of the car, the oil is its lifeblood.

I'd agree on an older car. But these days due to high tech building methods, engines that are made of higher quality materials etc the 500/1000 miles oil change just isnt required thats why it has been dropped by 99.9% of motor manufacturers.

I'd agree on an older car. But these days due to high tech building methods, engines that are made of higher quality materials etc the 500/1000 miles oil change just isnt required thats why it has been dropped by 99.9% of motor manufacturers.

Agreed. I'd wait until 8-10k miles

Agreed. I'd wait until 8-10k miles

presumably topping up after 500 miles is necessary? ive heard they use a lot in the first couple months?

i assume its just a case of lobbing some in the top of the engine? - if so how much

Just keep an eye on it and fill it up so that it's between min and max on the dipstick........ as you won't know how much it's used it's usually a case of trial and error....

Chris

I've not needed to top mine up between services yet. I think the secret is to run the engine in properly in the first place (ie. give the engine a bit of stick from time to time).

I've not needed to top mine up between services yet. I think the secret is to run the engine in properly in the first place (ie. give the engine a bit of stick from time to time).

when you say give it a bit of stick... elaborate.....

ive got a very very heavy right foot....

wifey has basically said "dont boot it for the 1st 1000 miles".... like i ever listen to wifey, but i dont wanna ruin the car... any advise on running it in? - never had a brand spanker before - apart from a hired ford focus which i kinda blew up after 10 miles.

wifey has basically said "dont boot it for the 1st 1000 miles".... like i ever listen to wifey, but i dont wanna ruin the car... any advise on running it in? - never had a brand spanker before - apart from a hired ford focus which i kinda blew up after 10 miles.

Wifey has a bit of a point! Don't spank it to the red line from new but don't be afraid to rev it a bit once it's properly warmed up. Gradually increas the maximum revs say every 500 miles add another 500 rpm. You'll do more damage by changing up too early and trying to pull away from say 1200 rpm which stresses the engine even though the bags of torque make it seem OK. If you go for a long run don't stick it at the same speed all the time, vary it every few minutes plus 10 mph, minus 10 mph etc. After a long run let the engine "simmer" to let the turbo spool down on properly lubricated turbo bearings, turning the engine off straight away means the oil for the bearings could carbonise from the heat of the turbo shortening turbo life. Do this all the time even after run in. Keep the factory fill oil in the car until the first service and then decide whether you want to change the oil more frequently than the 10K services. I do mine every 5,000 - doesn't desperately need it but it's a small price IMO to pay for additional peace of mind.

Keep a close eye on it for 2k - some use none, some use loads. Most settle after around 2k.

Edit: Running in isn't really that much of an issue these days - are you really going to own it in 100k miles from now?

I agree with NeilS (apart from maybe the turbo bit). Most important advise is to not labour the engine. Driving carefully, and never reving the engine above 3,000rpm will stop the engine from bedding-in properly and could lead to excessive oil consumption.

Couple of interesting, informative sites about engines and oil and running in etc.

The Car Maintenance Bibles

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

"Lob in some oil".Ye gods.

The dipstick is there for a reason.Use it.

And act upon the information provided.

The oil that they use for the fabia TDi is the same oil they use in the variable service engines, so 10,000 is no problem for the oil, the sensors in these engines will only come on after 9,000 at the earliest even if it's had the bum ragged out of it.

Filters nowadays will filter down to a few microns and the oil will go from the filter to the turbo via a seperate line from the pump, so the turbo will never be starved of oil and the chance of getting crap blocking up the turbo shaft is minute unless the filter is crap.

My vRS used a litre of oil in the first 10,000 but uses very little now.

Just keep an eye on the level though, I had the amber light on for the oil level.

Personally, I would change the oil and filter on any new car after 500 miles. The reason being this is the initial bedding in process, when parts are mated, pistons in bores etc. As a consequence, this is when the most swarf / filings are created and need removing asap, otherwise they will be swimming around in the oil causing abrasion, the filter will not remove all of them . They will tell you 10,000 miles but that suits them for fleet sales the longer the service interval the more attractive there product seems. They also know that any problems are unlikely to manifest themselfs inside of the warranty period. On a purely engineering point it should be changed after 500 miles regardless of their blurb. I would thereafter change the oil and filter every 5-6,000 miles. It is the most expensive part of the car, the oil is its lifeblood.

I agree with this man. New engine, bits of metal filings everywhere while things bed in and sort themselves out. Change the oil at a 1,000 initially miles then go with the service schedule I.E 10,000. As for running in new vehicles i always take it easy up untill about a 1,000 miles. Had 7 new company cars and all good engine wise. After the 1,000 mark do what u like, oh and don`t be goaded by Saxos, Audis, Golfs into thraping it before a 1,000. After that show em who`s boss!

I intend to do an oil and filter change every 5000 miles, as I have done with every car I've ever owned.

Variable servicing scares me.

The oil that they use for the fabia TDi is the same oil they use in the variable service engines,

You'll find it cheaper to use the oil that fits the servicing regime: Fixed service interval engines like the Fabia PDs use a VW 505.01 spec oil; the variable servicing engines use a 506.01 oil. The new one-spec-fits-all oils are more expensive.

If there are bits of metal and iron filings in the oil, i'd be a bit worried, even when new.

The only oil that goes round the engine is that which goes through the oil filter, so any filings should be in the sump and not near the moving parts.

In which case, the filter will take them out.

The big ends are not that close to the sump oil (unless it's dramatically overfilled), in which case, you will damage the engine anyway.

Running in the engine will only take the tinyest, minutest amount of metal from the engine, you could probably say that the engine is worn out when there is a few hundred of a mm wear.