I need to run a 40 amp cable directly from the battery on my 07MY 4x4 Octavia, in order to fit an amateur radio transciever where the CD changer is.

That means that I need to run a large cable down the whole length of the passenger side of the car, and through the bulkhead directly to the battery. I've had a quick look at getting various bits of trim off, and cant see how many of them come off. Getting the trim off my previous Alfa GT was so much easier!

Has anyone done a fitting guide for this (even just getting through the bulkhead) or any helpful comments?

I asked my dealer to quote me for putting the cable in for me (and I would supply the cable and make the connections at each end) and they wanted

I'm sure Skoda will have done - I'll bet there's a feed you can steal in there somewhere? Don't the estates have a power socket in the boot? Couldn't you steal a feed from that?

I'm sure Skoda will have done - I'll bet there's a feed you can steal in there somewhere? Don't the estates have a power socket in the boot? Couldn't you steal a feed from that?

I doubt if any of that pre-exising cabling will handle 40amps, though?

Quick calculation says that the OP is anticipating using nearly 500watts of power out of his ham radio, that's quite demanding.

Dave.

PM Lummox he may help out.

Ive not actually run a cable myself on a new octavia but have seen amp cables run through on MK5 Golfs so it must be possible.

If this is still unsolved by the end of August, I'll post up how I do it in my new Vrs...... oooer missus

Just finalising the deal with work now for my next car, and I have quite a large stereo to get in the thing

Only just seen this post.

I've fed a 4 sq mm cable from the battery to boot for the towing electrics. It runs up inside the near side front wing, through the large black grommet half way down the door hinge post inside the car and along under the carpet.

Please let me know if you want any more details or photos.

Some more details/photos would be fantastic if you don't mind

MPM

I'll get the camera out but it unfortunately it won't be until the weekend.

Basically, if you remove the inner plastic wheel arch liner (several screws), you can fed the power cable from the battery to the grommet in the 'A' post. I covered the cable in plastic sleeving to protect the cable (I also fitted a fuse next to the battery).

The footwell plastic trim panel and glovebox need to come out (more screws) to access the grommet. I removed the grommet, made a small hole in it so it was a tight fit over the power cable. After feeding the cable into the car, I refitted the grommet and sealed around the cable with silicone sealant.

The plastic trim along the inner sills unclips and the cable can be taped in place before refitting the trim. The rear seat side bolsters unclip (push downwards and pull).

Removing the rear side panels is tricky as there are lots of screws (there

Andrew, I did a similar job on my mk1 Octy when i fitted the front parking sensors, nothing was difficult just takes a bit of time to do it neat / right.

i even ran the cables through the trunking in the engine bay so the cables were totally unseen.

Andrew, I did a similar job on my mk1 Octy when i fitted the front parking sensors, nothing was difficult just takes a bit of time to do it neat / right.

i even ran the cables through the trunking in the engine bay so the cables were totally unseen.

Yes, the Octy 1 was slightly easier as there was a suitable grommet just below the bottom corner of the windscreen. I tried to find a route through the bulkhead but I couldn't get behind the aircon/heater unit because of the sound insulation material (mine's a diesel).

The result is neat as you can only see the cable if you know where to look. If the weather holds out during the weekend, I'll get the camera out and post a few pics.

I'd be really interested in the pictures - especially of where the gromet is in the engine bay, and how to remove the rear side panels. I've had a few half hearted attempts at getting these off, but never got very close. Maybe if the weather is kind over Easter I'll have another more concerted effort.

Thanks, Neil

neharris, have you tried Mobile music or the 'ice shop' on medway city est, to see if they know away?

As promised a little later than intended, here's a few pics :

engine_bay1 - shows the cable in crinkley sleeving disappearing into the wing. The fuse holder is just visible below the bonnet stay holder.

engine_bay2 - shows where I picked up the power (4th terminal in from the left) - there's a short length of cable to the fuse holder.

pass_door_hinge - shows the cable (in black sleeving) passing through the inner wheel arch liner and then through the large grommet in the 'A' pillar.

pass_footwell - shows the cable (red) dropping down from the side of the glovebox to between the carpet and sound proofing. The thin yellow wire provides the ignition feed which I got from the heater controls.

boot - shows the "hidden" screws (circled in red) that hold the trim panel in place. There are also screws behind the rear seat side bolsters and behind the boot side trim panels above the rear lights. Have a look here for more about removing the trim.

Whats the best way to remove the trim you have taken off in Pic 4

Is it Pull Out at the Front then pull it UP ? Is there much force involved ?

Whats the best way to remove the trim you have taken off in Pic 4

Is it Pull Out at the Front then pull it UP ? Is there much force involved ?

As the trim is inter-linked - it's best to start with the rear door trim (also fastened down with a plastic "screw" under the rear seat). It's a case of fingers under the trim and pull up. They are tight so a reasonable amount of force is required. I find a sharp tug does the trick.

The 'B' pillar trim also requires the top piece removing (where the seat belt comes out) - pull the top towards the centre of the car. Both are held in with plastic "christmas tree" clips. The lower 'B' pillar trim also has metal clips into the sill.

The front door trim ideally needs the glove box removing. It's held in place by two plastic clips on the footwell part and metal clips into the sill. Yes, pull the footwell part out first then lift up to release the metal clips one at a time.

I find the metal clips can get left in the sill and need pulling out and sliding back into the trim panel before refitting.

As the trim is inter-linked - it's best to start with the rear door trim (also fastened down with a plastic "screw" under the rear seat). It's a case of fingers under the trim and pull up. They are tight so a reasonable amount of force is required. I find a sharp tug does the trick.

The 'B' pillar trim also requires the top piece removing (where the seat belt comes out) - pull the top towards the centre of the car. Both are held in with plastic "christmas tree" clips. The lower 'B' pillar trim also has metal clips into the sill.

The front door trim ideally needs the glove box removing. It's held in place by two plastic clips on the footwell part and metal clips into the sill. Yes, pull the footwell part out first then lift up to release the metal clips one at a time.

I find the metal clips can get left in the sill and need pulling out and sliding back into the trim panel before refitting.