Just struggling to get some wire into my Octy II Ambient Hatch for a new towbar.

Got as far as the A Pillar lower trim, but can't figure out the removal of the engine bonnet release lever.

Any advice / tricks / tips please?

Thanks

Andy

IMHO - Don't do it!!

Use the electrics kit from skoda as the whole thing can have really nasty effects on the CAN bus etc if you get it not quite perfect.

EDIT do you mean the internal lever? Mine just fell off in my hand the other day when my car broke down so i would guess it just pulls off towards the middle of the car

EDIT do you mean the internal lever? Mine just fell off in my hand the other day when my car broke down

Priceless!

[sorry, I hope you'll permit a little schadenfreude ]

Priceless!

[sorry, I hope you'll permit a little schadenfreude ]

I do permit it... and trust me priceless wasn't one of the words coming out of my mouth

Andy

If it's like some of the others it has a C shaped clip which you need to slide off.

I'd second the official kit if that's not what you are already using.

Yes, it is the official kit. Remote box is already installed in the rear wing, so I need to get the supplied loom back to the fuse box to connect there, and also tap into the CAN bus.

This lever has so far foxed me, but I'll go out now and have a look for a C clip.

Thanks

PS been at it since 10:00, but learned a lot about how the car goes together, and so far nothing broken, or left over!!

Stu.

No joy with a C clip. I can't see anything that looks like it might silde out.

I thought at first it might be a false cover, but nothing is giving in a way that it might seperate.

ElsaWin is hopeless, no reference to actual handle removal.

I dare'nt apply any more leverage, otherwise something might break, or I'll end up ploughing furrows in the plastic!!

Rgds

Andy

Still struggling to remove this lever.

The tow bar supplier (Towequipe) has a help line, so might try that today.

I had a quick look at any info I have and it looks like just a pull off lever but I couldn't be 100%. Try calling your local dealer.

My bonnet release lever falls off every time I use it!

There is a bit of sliding plastic on it which I have worked out holds it in place when slid in.....so if you can slide that bit out it should come off.....sorry for the terrible description.

There is no problem utilising alterntive wiring kits as long as they are relay based and done probably. Several after market manafactures now make these kits which just plug into the car.

Sorted.....

Thanks to all. There is a plastic C circlip which locks it in place. This is only visable from the "rear" of the handle (ie the side of the handle that faces towards the fron ot the car).

I found it using a mirror!!

Anyway the clip does pull out (forwards towards the front of the car) enough to release the lever. No way the lever would have pulled straight off without damage.

I have a photo if anyone else is considering the same job.

Dam clever these Germans!!

So all connected, all lights etc working correctly, and CAN bus still intact.

Thanks Stu for the lead, and the feedback.

Rgds

PS. Once you take it apart, it is obvious how it goes together!!

So it was the similar sort of setup to the others then.

Photo taken with camera perched in area of brake / accelerator pedals.

Yep, similar to what I've seen before - Handy pic though thanks.

ooooh, get you and your shadenfreude!

Photo taken with camera perched in area of brake / accelerator pedals.

I fitted the skoda wiring loom about two months ago - only managed to get into the fuse box thanks to a tip from VRS STU - but since then the mpg display hasn't worked properly.

Could be due to the fact that the fuse box slot allocated to the tow bar already had a wire into it.

Took me about two days to thread all the wire into the car - skoda puts its cars together too well

pmc

Sounds like you've got something not right there. I'd start by disconnecting the wire you put in.

Defiantly something wrong. You could well be in the wrong place on the fuse box.

Mine had three completely empty positions, identified on the fuse allocation card as “tow bar”. I think it was 41, 42, and 43, but can check if you want accuracy.

The kit had a short jumper lead to add the live +ve to two of these fuse positions, and the main run back to the rear module connected into the “output” side of one of them.

A fuse (again I can’t remember 20a or 30a) was supplied.

So out of the three previously empty allocated, one is now live and used for the tow bar. The second is live, but not used. The third is still empty.

Rgds