Just wondering what is the best way to run the engine in?

Just take it easy fro the first 1000 miles, don't rag it and dont go to the red line, then you can gradually increase the load over the next 500 miles (I think) all the way up to the red line, but ragging it to this point is needless in the vRS.

Be prepared for some oil loss as it's running in, so keep a small can in the boot, mine used 1 litre in the first 10,000 and that was going steady.

The handbook will tell you what to do.

Hope this helps?

DaveB, There's quite a few threads on this. 'Somewhere'

I never take it easy, even from new. I of course, don't redline it from the start, but I don't see why you shouldn't take it up to 4,000 if you wanted.

As long as you give the engine a chance to warm up by driving sensibly, I wouldn't be too conservative once it's nice and warm.

IMHO, new engines take more of a hammering when cold than when new

manual says basically only take it up to 75% in any gear... thats still 4000rpm....

since the turbo kicks in around 1800 thats plenty of poke for your first 1k

Give it to Jason for a week......................................

Give it to Jason for a week......................................

As long as he keeps it right side up

The engine will be tight for the first 1000 or so miles and taking it easy helps bed the parts in properly. The parts of the engine are moving at a hell of a speed.

Just use the combination of power and torque and you don't need to hammer it for the first miles.

Do a search. You'll find more differing ideas on how to run in than you've had hot dinners!

I nailed mine for new right upto the limiter and if it blows up then send it back to the dealer for repair for free, I have in the past owned a plethora of sports bikes and when I "ran them in properly" as per the manual I found them to be slower than if they were caned from the off.

That aside, dont drill it from cold always warm it up, then smash the throttle through the floor and check out your grin factor!!

thanks for advice I read somewhere that its good to run it hard for the first 50 miles then take it as per the manual, anyone else read that?

I wouldn't bother with the running in period either. In fact, there seems to be a correlation between running it in gently and high oil consumption from what I remember seeing in threads..........

Chris

Most importantly is make sure its up to operating temp before you use over 2,500rpm. Once warm drive it as you wish but clearly as its a diesel the quickest way of driving it quickly is to use the gears change up early and let the Torque give you all the acceleration you need.

If you want to rev it hard then really you should have bought a higher power petrol as it would be quicker while if you drove the petrol at 1.5-2.3kpm it wouldnt be that fast but the vRS will be very much on the boil + cracking mpg.

Also I highly doubt you'd be keeping this car for the long term in which case after the 3/5 years you have owned it the usual outcome of not running it in properly wouldnt have reared its ugly head yet.

Note to the chap who blew up his motor - all modern cars's brains record if the engine has been over rev'd and if your caught out paying for a new engine is really going to hurt. No going to the pub for a good 9-12 months while your saving to pay for it.

clearly as its a diesel the quickest way of driving it quickly is to use the gears change up early and let the Torque give you all the acceleration you need.

:rofl:

Chris

:P

:rofl:

Chris

In Chris's handbook, I've been reading, the best way to drive a diesel

"Get someone else to do it, so you can laugh at them"

There is some belief in race engine building circles that the best way to bed in bores and piston rings is to run the engine on full throttle and full load. This fully loads the rings to the bores for the best bedding in whilst the cylinder cross hatching is new. Wait too long to load the engine up and the bores will start glazing and you may never get the same seal.

However, as I understand it, main and big end bearing shells take some time to 'work harden' after having gone through numerous cycles of heating/cooling and mostly benefit from being subjected to varying loads to achieve this

These two aspects seem to require different treatment but running the engine for brief periods at full throttle right from day one does seem to be favoured by many professional engine builders/tuners

As a young boy my father owned a number of new Audis in the seventies and early eighties and I remember his amusement that even back then the local dealers insisted that when running in the cars, to get the best from them he should drive them at MORE THAN 80mph! We live in the North East and my grandparents lived in the Midlands so the cars started their lives with a 200 mile journey at 100mph to visit them a bit of commuting there and then 200 miles back again. On trade in, the chief mechanic used to insist my fathers cars were some of the best he had driven!

clearly as its a diesel the quickest way of driving it quickly is to use the gears change up early and let the Torque give you all the acceleration you need.

I don't get it - you've had it explained and proved yet you still spout this crap :confused:

Are you being silly (at the expense of our newer members who might not know better) or are you just a bit 'special'?

I would say as long is warmed up ok just drive it how you like.

Count yourselves lucky.

We've just had to replace the crank in the mini we rally and we have to run it in for 2K miles-just got a job lot of ear plugs too.

I don't get it - you've had it explained and proved yet you still spout this crap :confused:

Are you being silly (at the expense of our newer members who might not know better) or are you just a bit 'special'?

Just because x source has "explained it" that doesnt discount the countless source I have stating the opposite.

Do you just not get it its simple maths - maximum acceleration is achieved...when.... at maximum torque.

FxD (Force x distance) give you your twisting force.

This is like those that believe in religion imagine if I wrote a book today and in 2000 years time it was found and people took what I said as the new gospel.

Evolution vs Creation.

Lets just end this disagreement here - I know Im correct I'll rely on the mathematice as the proof rather than random people posting who time acceleragion runs via their watches..roflol I'll only trust Autocar for fair tests (Just like McLaren did with the F1) and their dratron timing gear.

Also I'll rely on the articles about the Audi R10 Le Mans winner who stated the torque was so incredible and that they rarely used 2nd gear as the acceleration available in 3rd out of the tight corners from low engine speed meant that 2nd was effectively redundant.

Somebody pinched my avatar! The best advice I was given is as most people have already said don’t make the engine labour in high gears and don’t bounce of the limiter, and everything should be fine.

Does Wales experience different laws of physics to the rest of the world?

You are miss quoting your formula and using it inappropriately Welshy so no you are not correct

Its not torque at the crankshaft that accelerates your car, its the torque at the WHEELS that accelerates it.

So I'm going to quote it back at you. As you know the torque at the WHEELS is affected by 'force times distance'. The distance is effectively leverage. Being in a lower gear achieves greater mechanical leverage by whatever the ratio is between the gears

Being in first gear as opposed to second increases torque at the wheels to 180% at the same engine speed

Being in second gear as opposed to third increases torque at the wheels to 158% at the same engine speed

Being in third gear as opposed to fourth increases torque at the wheels to 145% at the same engine speed

So how does all this apply practically?

It is indeed a simple MATHEMATICAL PROOF. Continuing to change gear around maximum torque may achieve you an average crank torque of approx 220lb/ft. Comparing third and second gear, with the benefit of mechanical leverage at the gearbox torque at the engine crank can now fall to an average of 63% (inverse of 145%) of that applied by the crank when in second ie it can be revved until crank torque falls to an average of approx 140lb/ft. The crank torque is above that figure until about 4,250rpm, torque at the wheels is therefore higher in third than second until you are revving the engine even higher than approx. 4,250rpm.

So lets repeat what we have learnt

- the torque at the WHEELS accelerates the car

- the torque at the wheels in second gear is higher than in third gear until about 4,250 rpm

- the car will therefore accelerate more quickly in second gear until the engine exceeds more than 4,250 rpm

- only when exceeding these engine revs, can more torque be achieved at the WHEELS by changing up to the next gear

These are the simple laws of physics you have tried to (wrongly) quote Welshy. If you don't understand, go back to night school and study physics until you are good enough to get it right.

What really needs to be understood is actually another formula - one relating to POWER.

POWER is the measure of the rate of being able to do work. The rate at which the power unit (which in the case of a car is the combined engine AND gearbox) can do WORK (its power) is the measure of the rate at which it can accelerate the vehicle.

So how do you measure power? Force x distance gave you torque. Now apply another factor - revs

Torque x Revs = POWER

Power is a much easier concept to concentrate on if you want to be able to reach the correct conclusion. Your misunderstanding comes from concentrating on torque at the crank, you must instead concentrate on torque at the wheels as this is where the final motivating force is applied. Torque at the wheels is multiplied by being in a lower gear

A car is quickest if the gears are used to release maximum power.

You don't need to be chief engineer at Audi or McLaren to understand this. Any competent 'O' level physics student can prove it mathematically, as above.

If anyone knows all the ratios of the two 6 speed gearboxes can you let me know them please?

I'd be interested to work out the approximate theoretical change points for maximum acceleration in each gear for both types.

You;ve got warrenty, just let her warm and drive her what ever way you want. Just got a new Vrs the other monther and been driving her hard from the day i got her not burn alot of oil and still going the very best

The quicker you run it in the quicker it goes!!! :D