just a quick question re the FMIC , where does the MAP sensor get fitted when its removed from the original SMIC ?

If you take a look at this how to by forge..... really usful and covers the bit regarding the MAP sensor

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/media/Fabia%20FMIC%20fitting%20instructions.pdf

this time with the link

just a quick question re the FMIC , where does the MAP sensor get fitted when its removed from the original SMIC ?

On mine it's on the L piece in the engine bay, so it sits not far from the fuel filter. Let me see if I have a piccie somewhere.... Yep, it's that bit in the bottom left of the L bit, on the left hand side. Fits nicely there, but had to mock up a gasket to create a super tight seal

Another option for mapping Irf is Wayne at Chipwizard. Bit more closer to home. He's just mapped a TDI to 270bhp (highley modded mk3 golf). Jason knows who the guy is.

Tempted in taking my car their at somstage for a nice no torque killing remap.

Not sure but think he does the mapping for DubSport.

Just a quick update, the car went into the garage on Monday morning. Not sure if they've had a chance to look at it yet though. Just praying that the rest of the engine is ok and that only the turbo has gone.

John, Dubsport did the Revo remap for me. I heard they have rollers now and was going to ask them to remap it again at a later date. But I'm also going to look into Impossible, Allard and Awesome for remaps. Just hope they can all remove the current Revo remap and put their own in.

UPDATE

Rang the garage and they've looked at the car already

Basically the turbo has seized and the spindle int he middle 'exploded'. This has damaged some of the area surrounding it (not sure what) and the guy is worried that the intercooler (oe smic) has got too much debris in. He says the actual engine is clean so thats a good thing I suppose.

I asked him what could have caused this and he seems to think there wasn't enough oil getting to the turbo. I told him about the Revo map and that on Superchips rollers in Buckingham the intake temps were reaching over 90 degrees C. He said anything over 40 degrees C isn't good. And the guy at Superchips pretty much said the same. As the car is driven hard, it's no suprise the turbo has gone, especially at those temps.

So I've given him the number for Allard and Forge and we've come up with two solutions:

1) Replace turbo with new KKK and order Forge FMIC. Total cost for parts will be around

So a new kp-39 is around

UPDATE

Rang the garage and they've looked at the car already

Basically the turbo has seized and the spindle int he middle 'exploded'. This has damaged some of the area surrounding it (not sure what) and the guy is worried that the intercooler (oe smic) has got too much debris in. He says the actual engine is clean so thats a good thing I suppose.

I asked him what could have caused this and he seems to think there wasn't enough oil getting to the turbo. I told him about the Revo map and that on Superchips rollers in Buckingham the intake temps were reaching over 90 degrees C. He said anything over 40 degrees C isn't good. And the guy at Superchips pretty much said the same. As the car is driven hard, it's no suprise the turbo has gone, especially at those temps.

So I've given him the number for Allard and Forge and we've come up with two solutions:

1) Replace turbo with new KKK and order Forge FMIC. Total cost for parts will be around

A hybrid turbo will run cooler as it hasnt got to work that hard to get the same amount of air flow/boost, but then the FMIC is great too.

You don't necessarily need a new map - however of course you won't get the biggest performance benefits if you dont

Another option for mapping Irf is Wayne at Chipwizard. Bit more closer to home. He's just mapped a TDI to 270bhp (highley modded mk3 golf). Jason knows who the guy is.

QUOTE]

Yeah so do it`s Simon Coopers old drag engine which Steve Mosses bought put a bigger turbo on ( after blowing up the original one ) and bigger injectors, who then went and blew his gearbox up again to add to the clutch he broke. Nothing to do with the map mind you more down to the **** driving the car .

Hi guys another update.

I've ordered an FMIC from Forge for a great price. Good bunch of people there, e-mailed them last nigth and had a reply at 9am this morning!

Got in touch with Allard regarding the VT1 and 2 and they said that the VT1 is a Garrett turbo and has the same specification as the origional one. The VT2 is the uprated one that can handle much more power. So I've decided to go for the VT2 but they are going to ring me back to make sure it can fit as I have the KKK turbo and not the Garrett.

So hopefully I'll be running around the same power but the engine will not drop the boost when it gets warm. And if I get bored a custom remap could be on the cards for 200+bhp

The VT2 will fit but the outlet on it is larger (48mm)and in a slightly different place. the VT2 outlet will point directly down whereas the KP-39 initially points down but then has a very restrictive 90degree 'snorkel' that then directs towards the osf wheel.

Solution...You will need a 48mm id silicone elbow and and a section of pipe with a 90degree bend, while you're at it you might as well replace the last section of original pipework that isn't replaced with the Forge FMIC kit. That way there is one less connection to fail and it's a neater job.

The VT2 easily goes to 220. Enjoy.

Solution...You will need a 48mm id silicone elbow and and a section of pipe with a 90degree bend, while you're at it you might as well replace the last section of original pipework that isn't replaced with the Forge FMIC kit. That way there is one less connection to fail and it's a neater job.

Speaking from experience? You don't really need any metal with a bend in it, just use a bend off the turbo, and a bend off the FMIC, and in theory a straight bit should go between the two. It's what mine ended up being like anyway.

Yeah speaking from experience. Well your way invloves less work but would be a bit too close to the os driveshaft for my liking...

Actually, thinking back I think my way was to have a vertical hose off the turbo, about 12" of pipe straight down, then a 90 degree bend out toward the wing, then another very small bit of pipe and another 90 degree bend to then point it toward the FMIC inlet. You're right - to go from below turbo to FMIC direct is next to impossible. I have a totally different setup now the VT5 is on. Lloyd must have mocked something up.

Got in touch with Allard regarding the VT1 and 2 and they said that the VT1 is a Garrett turbo and has the same specification as the origional one. The VT2 is the uprated one that can handle much more power. So I've decided to go for the VT2 but they are going to ring me back to make sure it can fit as I have the KKK turbo and not the Garrett.

I can assure you the VT2 does fit as I had one fitted for the same reason as you're looking to and it's great. Also 200+ bhp is very achievable as mine's expected to be in the region of 210 - 215bhp but won't know for certain till it's been on a rolling road. Wherever you get yours fitted should know how to get it to fit with no problems. I had mine fitted and remapped at APS in Brackley and it's so much more fun now, however I also had a clutch fitted at the same time as the standard one will struggle. Good luck with it all.

I so need to get my map tweaked :( - I reckon the 201bhp SC thing is on the low side for what can be had from this setup...

But I thought you knew that WW?

Yep - the map was gonna get tweaked up after the engine had stabilised but due to time and other constraints that's never materialised It will do sometime soon though

You should definitely get yours tweaked as the guy they've got there now (Gary Hamilton from PCM Tuning) really knows his stuff and uses an on the road emulator to map the car. My car drives amazingly and Ed compared it to a Golf they had in there yesterday and said mine drove better and was on par or not far behind on the power side. That Golf was running uprated camshafts, FMIC, hybrid, uprated exhaust and clutch and was putting out 225 or thereabouts on the SC RR. Ed thinks mine's between 210-215 and mines without the FMIC so you'll get more from your kit. Go for it you know you want to

Hey guys thanks for the advice on the VT2. I posted the question about the VT2 and Revo on the mk4 forums and someone said their Revo map didn't work with the turbo? Will ask them more why this way.

Roscoe have sent my old turbo to Allard today so Allard can compare the two. I don't know if they remember what piping they used for Jason's car but I'll ask and see if they can send Roscoe some similar piping.

One thing I did notice on Allard's site was that they offer different maps for the cars. One map is rated at 205bhp, the one below is at around 220bhp. How do they know which map to use, or do they sue a generic map and tweak it? And has anyone used their uprated clutch faces? Much cheaper than a new uprated clutch but I was wandering how long the faces last with all that torque?

And has anyone used their uprated clutch faces? Much cheaper than a new uprated clutch but I was wandering how long the faces last with all that torque?

a bloke at work mentioned a company he had used to get new friction material put on a clutch plate for his rally car , can't remember the name at the moment , but they use uprated friction material

i thought one of the main problems with the standard clutch with big torque figures is that the clamping force of the clutch cover is not enough , therefore the slip occurs , so just putting uprated friction material on a clutch plate probably wont cure the slip but it may last longer under duress

And has anyone used their uprated clutch faces? Much cheaper than a new uprated clutch but I was wandering how long the faces last with all that torque?

Allards don`t make/design clutches they sell Helix clutches which you can buy in seperate parts; pressure plate, drive disc and SMF. The cheapest way to uprate a clutch is as already stated just buy the uprated pressure plate, personally i would always buy the uprated drive disc as well as the cost of the drive disc is less then the labour charged to split your car again if the pressure plate alone isn`t strong enough.

Interesting and helpful thread. As some of you guys know, i'm building the car up to the turbo - and i'm nearly there after the SMFW. I have noticed that a lot of people are having the allard EGR bypass with their bigger turbos. A quick Q if i may as i did a search or 2, but can't seem to find anyone else with this issue...

Just had a EGR removal and uprated pipework put in and the car is now giving a nasty vibration when the ignition is turned off - its like a stall, but less severe. I've had a look with the bonnet up, and the engine is flexing on its mounts to a pretty harsh extent before cutting off.

Any advice welcome. Once this is all clear, its in for the VT2...

Interesting and helpful thread. As some of you guys know, i'm building the car up to the turbo - and i'm nearly there after the SMFW. I have noticed that a lot of people are having the allard EGR bypass with their bigger turbos. A quick Q if i may as i did a search or 2, but can't seem to find anyone else with this issue...

Just had a EGR removal and uprated pipework put in and the car is now giving a nasty vibration when the ignition is turned off - its like a stall, but less severe. I've had a look with the bonnet up, and the engine is flexing on its mounts to a pretty harsh extent before cutting off.

Any advice welcome. Once this is all clear, its in for the VT2...

By removing the EGR unit you remove the anti-shudder valve too. This is whyt he car shudders when you switch it off. I've just got used to it now.