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My felicia 1.3 mpi broke down on me the other day...i say broke down the battery overcharged and blew up everything electrical in my engine, i replaced the alternator and the spark plugs but still no go (the engine would turn over but not actually start) so i took it to a garage to find out my ECU had been melted and wanted over

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Keep perservering with it as a different ECU (if i am correct) will take a little to marry up to the characteristics of your engine as opposed to the one it came off or so i am led to believe.

I would suggest going through everything methodically if starting doesn't improve and check the condition of all plugs to sensors etc. You will get to the bottom of it.

:thumbup:

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quote=richardsfavorit;976545]The trick is when changing the battery is to, connect the battery and leave the ignition on for 2 mins - the ECU gets it settings after a while. You will hear the throttle adjusting - the garage I take my car to taught me this.

If you ever want to re-set the ECU, leave the battery disconnect overnight and then plug back in, leave the ignition on for a few mins, and then start.

Try the above that RICHARDSFAVORIT came up with in another post. This sounds like it might work for you.:thumbup:

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i just got back from west wales so ive disconnected the battery now, will try starting it tomorrow morning, also a friend of mine mentioned that maybe my timing belt could be off, i doubt it, but is there a chance it could be?

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You need to link the key up to the ECU - via VAG COM. I had this problem with one of my cars it starts, but will immediately stopped. I took it to my garage - the other key worked - he plugged in his diagnostic computer to the underdash plug and configured it to accept the key.

I think the immobiliser maybe built into the ECU, therefore it doesn't recognise your key.

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the immobilizer isn't built into the ecu on those, it wasn't till the later ecu's (simos 4, marelli 3 etc) that it was built in... it's a seperate transponder unit on the felicia. it's up behind the steering column... the key doesn't need to be coded to the ecu itself, but it does need to be coded to the immobilizer unit

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Hmmm

Perhaps there is some coding that needs to be done.

I think its the voltage regulator on the alternator that kills the ECU, so worth changing that before you kill any new ECU too! :)

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