I recently bought a Fun Ute (Australian for Pickup), which I'm very happy with. I did have some initial repairs (new CV and ball joint, temperature sensor and rear brake pads), but now I'm left with a few problems, I'd like some advise on how to tackle.

1. Brakes - Before and after replacing the rear brake pads, the brakes feel very spongy. You can squeeze them as hard as you like, with little fear of locking up. Would it be best to bleed / replace the brake fluid or overhaul the master cylinder?
   
2. Cooling - When i picked up the ute, I noticed the temperature gauge didn't work, and since I had to drive 8 hours home, I checked that all the hoses were hot and crossed my fingers. When I replaced the temp. sensor, I have noticed that when travelling over approx. 40mph the engine doesn't receach temperature (ie needle sits between the needle rest and first mark), but when travelling through town, and sitting in traffic, the temp gauge will quickly reach above the halfway mark. My gut feeling is that the radiator is stuffed, and someone may have removed the thermostat. Does anyone have any suggestions on what testing or what I should replace?
   
3. Petrol fumes - After filling the ute I got a very strong smell of petrol inside the cab. I couldn't find any leaks under the chassis or inside the cab or around the petrol pump/level sensor access panel (on the tray). Anybody have any other ideas of where to check?
   
4. Gear Linkages - The linkage at the end of the gear stick came off the other day. Fortunately it occurred at home. I managed to reach underneath and "pop" it back into position. Is this a common problem? Is there a fix? Should I be looking for new linkage parts?
   
5. +2 seat lock - When I lock the extra seats into position, the handle doesn't release one side. I have cunningly crafted a welding rod so that I can manually release the catch mechanism. On the weekend, I removed the offending catch, and couldn't see any problems, except for a crack in the plastic housing need the spring mechanism, which didn't seem affect it's operation. What is the most likely cause of the problem: the catch/striker or the linkages inside the panel (which also appeared to be working fine)? I'm thinking of ordering new catches/strikers first, before trying to remove the extra seat, to gain access inside the rear panel.

Any help with any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

I also noticed that when I turn off the ute, the headlights turn off, but not the parking (side?) lights. I thought this was very strange behaviour. Is this normal?

Ute-bloke

The end of the thermostat housing will be broken meaning the stat has nothing to work against and thus sticks shut, then someone usually removes the stat rather than fix it. Which is about £8 for the end cap or £35 for a complete housing.

Happened on my old Fun.

The end of the thermostat housing will be broken meaning the stat has nothing to work against and thus sticks shut, then someone usually removes the stat rather than fix it. Which is about £8 for the end cap or £35 for a complete housing.

Happened on my old Fun.

that pick up is gawjus!!!!

Thanks... I was told by my mechanic that it couldn't possibly be the thermostat, as they "never break" and if they do, they somehow get jammed down the radiator hose and block it, causing the engine to over heat.

He is only recently qualified, but still, he should know better. Of cause someone is going to take it out and not replace it, that's the way some people think - Car not overheating, problem fixed. Couldn't convince him. He was very sure of himself that there was nothing wrong with the cooling system.

Ohh to be that age again - to be freshly qualified and know everything about everything, and there was nothing anyone could tell you, that you didn't know already! Those days were much simpler and fun.

some skoda garages will tell you you can only get the thermostat as a complete unit, and will charge about £46!!!!!! yes £46!!!!!!!!!

it does sound like the cross hair bit of the stat housing has broken, and some one has taken it out.

the brakes sound like they could do with bleeding, two man job.

as for the lights, thats normal.

have fun with you fun, you lucky bugger.

However considering you do get a complete unit with stat housing and temp sensor i dont think £46 is all that bad.

Ohh to be that age again - to be freshly qualified and know everything about everything, and there was nothing anyone could tell you, that you didn't know already! Those days were much simpler and fun.

Ha, reminds me of that slogan on that t shirt that i've forgotten what it said!

PAArsko ( remembering that he's lost it)

but all i wanted was the outer housing. but the dealers told me categorically,

"it only comes as a complete unit, not as separate parts" i then went to another dealer, who showed me all the parts in there own little bags separately.

second dealer then phoned first dealer and gave him a right old ear full.

why did first dealer try and con me???????????

Because your a woman...

Dad once sent Mum into buy some spark plugs for their V8 Ford... With all the car detail written down, Mum went in, read off the car details and asked for the spark-plugs. The bloke behind the counter, in front of few workmates and other male customers, then asked her, "How many spark plugs does your car need?" Which she promptly responded, "Don't you know how many a V8 engine needs - 8 you D1ckhead."

Needless to say, she coped no more grief at that shop. (for a while, anyway)

ha ha, fooled ya.

read the little bit of text above my picture!!!!!!!!

Yep, Got me!

By the way, got the same run around, with the thermostat + housing (€85), from my local Skoda dealer. Went to the local Motor Factors, they sold my the thermostat for €25.

Quick Update on my progress:

Replaced the thermostat and now the engine heats up to normal operating temperature. However, a couple of times now, when I have turned off the car, the electric fan continues to run for a little while. Is this normal?

Bled the brakes, and no difference with the braking. at 60mph I can stand on the brakes, with no fear of locking up. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of changing discs and pads, but don't want to pay for high performance parts, just a something that will do the job well.

Ordered two new door latches and strikes for the third door, but received to right hand latches, instead of the logical one left, one right. Will have to wait another two weeks for the left latch.

Got to love ordering car parts, something that I now realise that I have missed over the last ten years. Now I have something I can tinker with. I just can't wait till I have to replace the head gasket (or similar).

Just imagine it, late Saturday evening, finally get the head off, wife's calling you in for dinner, and you find out that the gasket you waited for over 5 weeks looks nothing like the one that's half stuck to the block and half stuck to the head and now in two parts. Now that's a way to really blow your head gasket!!

Note to self: If ever replacing head-gasket, keep old one as sample. That way, when you need to buy another, you can take the old one in and double check against the new one before leaving shop.

Could well be a siezed caliper but to be honest the brakes often feel like they are made of wood.

Cooling fan running on is normal.

Have you tried Butts of Bawtry for parts.

They come well recommended for bits for the older models.

Homepage

Had another thought about the brakes... Could putting a larger booster on the master cylinder help? Or could there be a problem with my booster. I check the vacuum, to what's in the Haynes manual, but is there any other test that could be preformed?

I dont think its an assistance issue, id check the bar isnt seized between the pedal and the master cylinder if they are that bad.

Thanks, I'll have a look at it this evening.

Warning: This post contains gross misconduct and Felicia abuse!!

Still not happy with brakes, so I got up early Sunday morning with the idea I will replace the brake fluid in the system.

Organised the brother-in-law to come over and give a hand, everything was going smoothly: he was the brake operator and I was bleeder operator and we had our sequence worked out.

That's until we had to refill the reservoir. Instead of picking up the brake fluid container, I managed to pick the engine oil container, and promptly filled the reservoir. Looking back, with my 20-20 hindsight, I do vaguely remember watching the oil pour in thinking, "That funny, it looked like there was air bubbles in the that?"

It wasn't until after the second refill and more air bubbles being bled through, did the brain suddenly make the connection. No need to panic, I've seen professional hydraulic fitters fill a €20million hydraulic system with the wrong oil, and they didn't panic. (Got their butts kicked, but not too badly as they owned up as soon as they realised. Coped more from the lads then anything else!)

Fortunately I had only bled one line, so I refilled the reservoir several times, with the correct fluid, bleeding through the engine oil. The brakes now work as they did before, but I still have some oil left floating on top, in the reservoir. Next job is to remove the reservoir, thoroughly clean and refill with the correct fluid. Then start the whole brake fluid replacement job again!!

Word to the wise: Don't spin bull**** stories about fishing/drinking trips to the (Great Barrier) Reef, when working on your car.

classic.

put your hand up if you feel like a twit????

Once I have my brakes sorted, I plan to do some minor engine upgrades to my 1.6mpi Fun. I was thinking of a high-flow air filter(not induction kit), moderate cam, a set of extractors (tuned exhaust manifold) and perhaps a air/fuel/ignition remap. I'm not trying to break any speed records, or spend a lot of money. I'm just after some moderate gains, used mainly during overtaking.

Does anyone suggestions?

Also, if I end up upgrading my front brakes, want would you suggest? Not after anything that will make your eye-balls pop out of their sockets, when you release the anchors and cost a bomb, just something that will work and competitively priced!

Also, if I end up upgrading my front brakes, want would you suggest? Not after anything that will make your eye-balls pop out of their sockets, when you release the anchors and cost a bomb, just something that will work and competitively priced!

...There are quite a few manufacturers who do uprated discs; cross drilled/grooved and because the Felicia shares the same brake pads as the Ford Sierra there are a number of companies offering uprated pads. Also, fr better pedal feel and responsivness A goodridge front 4 piece brake hose kit will make a bit of difference.

To be honest though, if you want the ultimate stopping power you will want a larger diameter/vented disc setup.

There are currently no easy ways of achieving this as the VW parts bin is not compatible with Skoda Favorit/Felicia derived brakes, so its not as simple as bolting on better calipers/discs etc but Teflon Tom and Pinkskud are working on these.

Im sure they can tell you alot more about this subject than I can.

Cheers,

Al

right, brakes.

so far, managed to get the discs off a G60 corrado to fit. for this you need a set of spacers to increase the mounting spigot diameter. toms using the wilwood calipers, and he has the mounts for them all designed ready to go. i was trying to get the corrado calipers to fit, but its looking like a no-go at the mow, so may have to re think.

as for engine power, all i've done is induction kit and full sports exhaust (not manifold), and put it this way, you could never call it under powered.

Pinkskud, I may have to ask Tom about this setup and see if it will go on the Fav. Do you think the discs will fit inside 14'' rims though?

Yes, I've been following the "Big Brakes" conversions of Tom and Pinky. To attempt that sort of work you really need access to a machine shop and a shed (with tools) to work in, to have a good go at it. Currently I have neither. Working between lashings of rain is not a good way to customise.

If I was to do some major custom work, I would probably look at a twin-cam head and raising the ride if I could get an all-wheel drive train under the Fun. The twin-cam head is apparently do-able, and I suspect raising the ride height is too, but the all-wheel drive train would be an extreme amount of re-engineering. It's all Pie in the Sky stuff -- for now!

Will drilled / grooved discs actually improve cold braking (normal driving, 60mph -> 0mph), or will they only improve multiple, heavy braking, by reducing brake fade? Is upgrading the pad worth it, without upgrading discs?

I like the sound of the hose kit, where would get one of those: Online or motor factors? What does the hose kit do? Does it reduce the amount of "swelling" when the brakes are applied, compared to the original hoses, thus giving less "sponge"?

at the mow i'm using zero sixty grooved and dimmpled discs, and EBC green stuff pads. and TBH that set-up can stop a felly in silly time.