Kindastuck here. A while back I went over a roundabout, wheels to the left. I needed to replace 2 front alloys a bent bottom arm and a new driveshaft on the drivers side. I then put on some octy spider alloys and the wheel looks like it has -ve camber. I then changed the strut but its still a bit out at the top. Any ideas on whats out? I doubt ive bent the sub frame as its cast and would have broke.

Not yet had it 4 wheel alligned as I want to know whats out and not to waste £30 to be told its out. Cheers Sy

Can provide pics if this will make it clearer

Kindastuck here. A while back I went over a roundabout, wheels to the left. I needed to replace 2 front alloys a bent bottom arm and a new driveshaft on the drivers side. I then put on some octy spider alloys and the wheel looks like it has -ve camber. I then changed the strut but its still a bit out at the top. Any ideas on whats out? I doubt ive bent the sub frame as its cast and would have broke.

Not yet had it 4 wheel alligned as I want to know whats out and not to waste £30 to be told its out. Cheers Sy

£30 for a full 4 wheel alignment check and adjust - that seems a bit cheap. Are you not better taking the car to a indep VAG specialist so that they can quickly find and change any parts that are needing changed. The lower swivel is the point where the camber is adjusted and the position of the cross member is critical to allow everything to be spot-on and the camber equal on both sides. The only cast bits on the subframe are the consoles - and they are aluminium - so a bit soft, the cross member is fabricated from welded up plates of steel IIRC.

£30 for a full 4 wheel alignment check and adjust - that seems a bit cheap. Are you not better taking the car to a indep VAG specialist so that they can quickly find and change any parts that are needing changed. The lower swivel is the point where the camber is adjusted and the position of the cross member is critical to allow everything to be spot-on and the camber equal on both sides. The only cast bits on the subframe are the consoles - and they are aluminium - so a bit soft, the cross member is fabricated from welded up plates of steel IIRC.

I had mine done for £29.50 by ProTyre in Poole and it was a full four wheel jobbie showing toe and camber. Very good and showed me what the issue was with the pulling left.

Sorry to hijack the thread...but if the camber is adjustable is it worth getting a bit of negative camber dialled into the front wheels to give a sharper turn in?

Sorry to hijack the thread...but if the camber is adjustable is it worth getting a bit of negative camber dialled into the front wheels to give a sharper turn in?

Not on the Fabia as it stands.

If you want a sharper turn in under stress (Speed), try the Seat Sport strut brace. It will tighten up the feel when your "making progress" and give you a lot more feedback.

Apologies again incase I sound like a dumbass.... but...wouldn't a front strut brace make the front end more skittish over uneven surfaces and in the wet? I was just wondering if the negative camber would be worthwhile as a "something for nothing" I guess...but in hindsight it will probably just encourage the inside wheel to spin up in tight corners without an LSD!!

Apologies again incase I sound like a dumbass.... but...wouldn't a front strut brace make the front end more skittish over uneven surfaces and in the wet? I was just wondering if the negative camber would be worthwhile as a "something for nothing" I guess...but in hindsight it will probably just encourage the inside wheel to spin up in tight corners without an LSD!!

Possibly.

I always found the SB to be a really nice mod that let me know a bit more about what the car was doing and react a bit quicker.

You can't really adjust the camber without serious (Like REAL serious) mods

It would ba ace if you could "hire" mods for a few days to test them out aye!? haha...thanks, and sorry again for the thread hijack!