Go to drive to work at 0800 this morning. 1.9TDI won't rev at all (sits at 1k idle, throttle does absolutely nothing), and glow plug light flashing. I phoned the RAC, they said anything up to 2.5 hour wait. Looked on here, aahh could be the brake light switch, although brake lights appear to be working. So, I cancelled the RAC, got my nice clean bike out & rode off to dealer & got a nice new green switch (and a good soaking & filthy bike).

Just put the new switch on, same faults. WTF is wrong with this car? Have I forgotten something like should I disconnect the battery to clear the ECU? A quick answer would be great if anyone has one, as I will need to phone the RAC back to get it towed to the dealer otherwise. One thing I noticed was that after putting the new switch on, although it would not rev, the glow plug light only started flashing after I put the main lights on. I've checked the relevant fuses BTW and they are all OK.It's now lost me a day's work, won't rev, has a possibly fecked turbo (N75 valve being tried Wednesday) and the ac clutch is not where it should be. Aaarrgghhh!

Throttle pedal?

Thanks Stu. Don't think it's the throttle pedal, too much of a coincidence that the glo plug warning light keeps flashing. Could it be that until the ECU has something done to it the car will stay like this (disconnecting the battery worth doing?)? Have called out the RAC again, if they can't sort it then it'll get towed to the dealer.

The RAc should be able to give you a fault code. When you get that let us know.

Don't be too drawn in by the Glow Plug light, it's an indicator of a great many faults and not just the brake pedal switch.

Will let you know the code, hopefully just a sensor. I live in hope!

RAC have just called to say may not get to me until 6pm! I called them at 1245! Anyway, decided to disconnect the battery to see if that would help. On top of the battery is a small cover, over some fusible links (3 x 30A green fuses in top rhs corner). The left hand side (ie nearside) one of these is pretty well melted. On removal it tested OK for continuity, however, part of one leg(rearmost) stayed in the slot and there's a bit of melting been going on. So, what circuit is this, and is it linked to 1. my turbo, 2. my aircon compressor, 3. my glo plug warning light & non revving, or 4. none of these, you've got yet another broken thing to eat your wallet?? I haven't as yet tried to put another 30A fuse in, not sure whether to or leave it to RAC/dealer. Anyone know if the fusebox on top of the battery is expensive? Think I may well need a new or at least different one! Many thanks in advance, apologies for all of these questions...

Try the search as I am sure it'll turn up something about that fuse box.

Stu. Yep, just tried a few searches but could only find problems with the black alternator wire. I'll try on a SEAT forum as the green fuse was said to be a problem for these.

Have you looked in your manual for the fuse assignement?

Yep, the handbook only appeared to have the fuses inside the cockpit, as does the Haynes, unless I just didn't see them, I am rushing about like a headless chicken! Have done more searching, looks like it is 3a - Radiator stage 1 - 30A, so sounds like this could be another problem on top of the others.

Have another look in the handbook to see what it says for your specific car.

My guess, like Stu, goes to a faulty potentiometer (or whatever it is) in the throttle pedal itself. When I started my car first post vRS conversion, the throttle pedal was still the pd100 one, and it did the same thing due to not being able to comm with the car. Sat at about 1200rpm, and did nothing at all when pressed. New pedal sorted it out though.

Any news on a fault code yet?

RAC guy has just towed it off to the dealer. Still haven't had a chance to go through the handbook properly but will do tonight. No fault codes shown, but still had flashing light. Yep, RAC guy reckoned it was the throttle switch on the pedal, so I will find out when dealer looks at it on top of changing the N75 on Wednesday. The car would idle at 1000rpm when first started but then rose and sat at about 1250, and smelled a bit too. He reckoned this was all down to the throttle switch (is that the TPS?). He bridged the burnt 30A fuse and this made no difference. We shall see, thanks for all the inputs, help always appreciated.

I would have thought if it were the Throttle you'd get a code. Did the RAC have a VAS computer?

Not sure what it was. Very small laptop. Didn't look that close. He said that codes aren't always forthcoming and that it may need the dealer's equipment. There must have been a code urely, if the glo plug light is flashing away?

Not sure what it was. Very small laptop. Didn't look that close. He said that codes aren't always forthcoming and that it may need the dealer's equipment. There must have been a code urely, if the glo plug light is flashing away?

That's correct, as far as it goes. Which is where skill and knowledge come in; translating physical symptoms plus fault code into a "replace this" action.

Water ingress into the throttle position sensor, that's the first verdict. The dealer has dried it out & said it's now revving. He later road tested it again and a couple of times it wouldn't rev, turning ignition off & on sorted it. So sounds like just needs a bit more drying, then I need to find out how the water has been getting in. Can't say I'd noticed a lot of water in the footwell. I'd better sort it though or this will keep happening. Anyone aware of any known water ingress hotspots?

They have said that the turbo appears better with a new N75 valve, so if this is true I shall be a very happy chappy , pick the car up tomorrow so will find out.

They also put the aircon clutch back on, but the ac isn't working. Hopefully this is due to the melted 30A fuse in the battery-top fusebox, I'm picking a new box up tomorrow which I'll put on at the weekend.

No idea how much it's cost so far, but if I can avoid the new turbo it's a result! Many many thanks for all of the help you folk have given, it really is much appreciated.

Do I get the donut then?? :P

As for water I'd start with removing the wipers and scuttle cover to clear out any debris under that. While it's off looking in at the passenger side check the pollen filter housing and on the drivers side check the bulkhead cable carrier lid.

Other obvious one is the washer pipes although they are on the passenger side I think.

Stu; yep, you get the donut! I bought a pollen filter last week so will do what you say when I fit it at the weekend.

Got the car back today, dealer charged a very very reasonable cost for labour which was great. A couple of times today it has stumbled at 3k revs in third, but no radial noises between 1 & 2k so seems much better. Think I'll keep half an eye open for another turbo if one comes up a bit cheap. Thanks for all of your help folks, especially VRStu.