Skip to content

Vibrations with new dmf and clutch

Featured Replies

Hello.

After changing clutch and dual mass flywheel(sachs) on my Superb 130 TDI PD i get some strong shaking / vibration when accelrate up a hill in 4 and 5th gear around 1450 r/min, sometimes at 1800 r/min This comes only when taking out a lot off torque of the engine. Did then get a new flywheel and changed it, still have the same shaking / vibration but now at 15-1600 r/min and only in 5th gear with the "pedal to the metal". I still belive that it is the flywheel, but it is difficult to get sachs to agree.... Anyone with the same expirience with new parts??? (the old flywheel was made by LUK, but the sachs should fit)

I have just fitted a new sach dmf and sach performance pressure plate and friction plate.

After about 400miles of careful bedding in i started to get a judder when setting off.

After bleading the hydrualics again it has gone :thumbup:, got abit worrried as it had just cost me near on 700 quid for the parts but alls good now.

I have a judder problem with our BS 06 2.0 TDI. It's sometimes bad when cold, sometimes fine, sometimes worse when hot (crawling through traffic) and sometimes OK. When bad it and causes the whole car to judder. Also it's developed a rattling sound from the gearbox when changing down, which is especially noticable from 3rd to 2nd, but only when really hot.

The clutch used to judder, particularly when cold on my PD 130. It had done about 20k miles, I suspect many on the motorway as a rep mobile. Putting a 1500 kg trailer on the back and giving the clutch a few work-outs seems to have completely cured it - I can't fault the clutch now, hot or cold, hitched or unhitched.

rotodiesel.

The clutch used to judder, particularly when cold on my PD 130. It had done about 20k miles, I suspect many on the motorway as a rep mobile. Putting a 1500 kg trailer on the back and giving the clutch a few work-outs seems to have completely cured it - I can't fault the clutch now, hot or cold, hitched or unhitched.

rotodiesel.

Hmmm... probably a similar life as mine, which'd covered 13k in 9 months and now upto 25 in 15! You favour a bit of a "warming" session then, Roto?

I'm not too sure about a "warming" session - I always drive with mechanical sympathy. I'm not into abusing an expensive piece of kit I've paid for (ex-Northerner). Obviously, putting that sort of load behind the Superb will give the clutch a work-out but I have always used it to make smooth progress rather than a pointless wheelspin and smoke job.

I suspect a little-used clutch plate does not polish the flywheel and pressure plate faces adequately (a bit like brake disks left in the rain and not driven much). I always found that the clutch judder was worst after a damp night, or a cold one which would cause condensation and hence rusting on the cold flywheel face.

All polished up now.

rotodiesel.

..

Changed my DMF for a LUK one this year and no problems so cant comment on the SACHs one did 122000 on original one hope to get same ouot of second one lol

I'm not too sure about a "warming" session - I always drive with mechanical sympathy. I'm not into abusing an expensive piece of kit I've paid for (ex-Northerner). Obviously, putting that sort of load behind the Superb will give the clutch a work-out but I have always used it to make smooth progress rather than a pointless wheelspin and smoke job.

Yup - like wise.

I suspect a little-used clutch plate does not polish the flywheel and pressure plate faces adequately (a bit like brake disks left in the rain and not driven much). I always found that the clutch judder was worst after a damp night, or a cold one which would cause condensation and hence rusting on the cold flywheel face.

All polished up now.

rotodiesel.

I suspect you're correct. Problem is that is simply doesn't seem to be improving - in fact its sometimes worse when its hot. As this is the first modern diesel I've owned, I'm wondering if I'm actually not helping things by engaging the clutch at too lower speed - I tend to pull away at about 11 to 1,200 rpm. However, if I rase the engine speed to 2k, the judder all but disappears. What sort of RPM do you tend to use from standstill? Anyways.... this, together with the "clatter" from the box when changing-down from third to second means a trip when hot to the dealer. If it's a box fault, when they drop it, they can change the clutch at the same time.

Thanks Roto...:thumbup:

I get the same prob in my fabia VRS, just had sachs organic clutch and new DMF fit amd at low revs in 4th or 5th i do get a vibration, i think its due to putting my foot down to early in the revs. If i let the car rev up abit before changing its fine, iv lernt to live with it as i dont think its doing any harm?????

I get the same prob in my fabia VRS, just had sachs organic clutch and new DMF fit amd at low revs in 4th or 5th i do get a vibration, i think its due to putting my foot down to early in the revs. If i let the car rev up abit before changing its fine, iv lernt to live with it as i dont think its doing any harm?????

Yer i get the exact same thing, i bled the brakes and clutch fluid and it made the iniatial judder when setting off better, but i still get the vibration from the DMF in 4th and 5th, like you i have just learnt to live with it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.