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Cruise Control Fix


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Octavia 2005

For some time my Cruise Control has been playing up, one minute OK then won't switch back on etc.

Went to my dealer diagnosed switch. £147 to replace (inclding parts £68)

Read on here about cleaning the contacts on the switch so here go's.

Split stalk using thumbnails, removed switch, removed circuit board from switch, cleaned contacts with meths and cotton buds, reassemble, job done.

Road test all working OK result also saved £147

Only problem my T10 key did not fit the screws but as it's a cheap set I rounded it of with a file and now it fits OK.

Total time 30 mins.

Anybody else with this problem DON'T hesitate to try this fix.

Thanks Briskoda

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Octavia 2005

For some time my Cruise Control has been playing up, one minute OK then won't switch back on etc.

Went to my dealer diagnosed switch. £147 to replace (inclding parts £68)

Read on here about cleaning the contacts on the switch so here go's.

Split stalk using thumbnails, removed switch, removed circuit board from switch, cleaned contacts with meths and cotton buds, reassemble, job done.

Road test all working OK result also saved £147

Only problem my T10 key did not fit the screws but as it's a cheap set I rounded it of with a file and now it fits OK.

Total time 30 mins.

Anybody else with this problem DON'T hesitate to try this fix.

Thanks Briskoda

Need to have a look at this on mine, as occassionally I can't activate it. A restart sorts it, but still annoying.

Glad you're sorted :thumbup:

Steve

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  • 6 months later...

Hi All,

Whatever you do DO be careful with the black contacts on the PCB. I tried following the instructions with cotton buds etc. Still didn't work. But I'm convinced it's the stalk cos it failed when I turned the indicator on. Being a bit impetuous a took some fine sandpaper to the contacts. Think I've mullered it. So £67 for a new stalk now, or perhaps I should have skoda give me a read-out to see if the problem can be traced more accurately. Anyone got instructions for replacing stalks?

Phil.

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Just reminded myself of this thread and the OP's quoted dealer cost - £148 to fix emoticon-0104-surprised.gif

The stalk can be had quite easily for £30-40 if you want to change the whole unit.

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Hi All,

My understanding is that if the DPF needs to or is in a regen mode the CC is deactivated. As soon as the regen is complete the CC is available again but only after switching off, removing key then restarting. If it were the dirty / faulty contacts syndrome usually once it stops working switching off/on has no effect, only very careful cleaning or a replacement is a cure.

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Am I being skeptical by thinking that this is all the dealer would have done, but charge you for a full replace? I bet they know this is all that was needed.... :wonder:

I doubt it, the 30 mins taken would cost more in labour at the steelers. Lol

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Hi All,

Whatever you do DO be careful with the black contacts on the PCB. I tried following the instructions with cotton buds etc. Still didn't work. But I'm convinced it's the stalk cos it failed when I turned the indicator on. Being a bit impetuous a took some fine sandpaper to the contacts. Think I've mullered it. So £67 for a new stalk now, or perhaps I should have skoda give me a read-out to see if the problem can be traced more accurately. Anyone got instructions for replacing stalks?

Hi Phil, pm me your email address and I'll send you the procedure

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Hi All,

Whatever you do DO be careful with the black contacts on the PCB. I tried following the instructions with cotton buds etc. Still didn't work. But I'm convinced it's the stalk cos it failed when I turned the indicator on. Being a bit impetuous a took some fine sandpaper to the contacts. Think I've mullered it. So £67 for a new stalk now, or perhaps I should have skoda give me a read-out to see if the problem can be traced more accurately. Anyone got instructions for replacing stalks?

Phil.

Sorry that should have read 'quote'. Again pm me your address Phil & I'll send one on to you

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Yes. The fix involves removing effectively the centre of the stalk, which holds the contacts and small board for the CC operation.

Guide here: http://vwfanatic.dk/Tips/Golf5GRA.html (Google translate does a decent job of taking the guesswork out of the Danish!)

I also have a PDF copy of the translated guide, if that helps. Drop me a PM if you want it.

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Cheers for that link.

PDF'd it for myself. Google says it's Swedish if anyone if struggling with translations.

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No worries. As long as you've got it. Should make more sense now emoticon-0148-yes.gif

It's Danish; Google does sometimes get similar languages wrong as it'll auto-detect. The fact it was on a .dk domain gave it away for me :)

To be honest, as long as you've got the pictures you can follow the steps easily.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for your responses.

I went onto the site, translated it with Google, followed the instructions and now my cruise control is working OK but early days.

It's quite easy to prize off the side of the CC stalk with a very small screwdriver and the switch virtually fall out. Unplugged it and then was able to dismantle it. The two small retaining screws have torx heads so if you don't have that type of screwdriver a small watchmakers screwdriver works OK. There is no need to dismantle the on/off switch.

I then cleaned all the ponts with Maplins Electrical Solvent Cleaner on a cotton bud. Job done!!

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I too followed this guide and my cruise is now working again!!! I did not undo torex screws as you can get to contact part without taking it apart. I used a cotton bud and it was pretty dirty by the time I had finished cleaning it up. Thanks for the links excellent job. I use my cruise every day and was done for without it.... BTW Halfords have cleaner for £4 which was cheap compared to some other prices I saw.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_165750

Edited by MJ1
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Yes Mike, you'll get this error because of cruise. As the stalk communicates first with the s/wheel controller.

I've had it before. When I followed the cleaning guide, I noticed the connections for the cruise switch weren't that tight into the stalk itself. So I re-attached mine without cleaning anything and it's been fine every since (touch wood!)

If you cleaned the switch, re-attached properly and haven't had any noticeable issues with cruise since, BUT the error is still coming up now and again, I'd say that there might still be fault - perhaps with the stalk itself. Maybe try taking it out for cleaning again. If not I've seen replacement stalks for around £30. But then again, if you're not noticing any issue in operation I'd just carry on regardless!

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  • 2 months later...

Finally did this on Sunday.

Woot, nice and easy and CC is back working perfectly again.

I used - http://www.maplin.co.uk/electronic-solvent-cleaner-30056 on a cotten bud and quite a bit of crud came off the black contacts.

Has anyone done the safe for the right hand stalk? I find the comp gets a bit 'sticky' sometimes just like the cc used to.

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Did this on Monday with a dab of vodka. Took 5 minutes. All ok now. Not sure how MJ1 did it (see 10 Sep post above) without removing the contact board. Black crud covered the cotton bud afterwards. Good to see that the site and its members help so many people.

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A question to all who have had this problem. On a VCDS scan, do you get the fault code 18104 Implausible signal from steering column controller when the cruise won't work?

Mine came up with this at exactly the time that the cruise failed. I used the guide on here to clean, and have never once since had a problem, but the elusive 18104 fault code still occassionally shows up, although the car never shows any symptoms of anything being wrong.

Anyone throw any light exactly what this fault is -- I'm convinced in something to do with the cruise somewhere.

Mike

Mike, I fitted CC to swmbo's Golf last week and Martin (Gizmo68) very kindly completed the coding. Now I won't go in to detail as I have on a previous post but initially it wouldn't work, I am almost certain that the 'implausible signal from steering column controller' was shown on VCDS when Martin checked the fault (not sure about the code, he will be able to confirm). After several attempts we gave up thinking it was due to the incorrect steering control module, however on my journey home it started working. It's been fine since although Martin did notice the on/off switch wasn't operating 100% right! Think I may complete the cleaning and see if that makes any difference to the switch.

Lee.

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Mike, I fitted CC to swmbo's Golf last week and Martin (Gizmo68) very kindly completed the coding. Now I won't go in to detail as I have on a previous post but initially it wouldn't work, I am almost certain that the 'implausible signal from steering column controller' was shown on VCDS when Martin checked the fault (not sure about the code, he will be able to confirm). After several attempts we gave up thinking it was due to the incorrect steering control module, however on my journey home it started working. It's been fine since although Martin did notice the on/off switch wasn't operating 100% right! Think I may complete the cleaning and see if that makes any difference to the switch.

Lee.

If that happens (which is does quite a lot to me) disconnecting the battery and holding the terminals together will reset the system (called a termnal 30 reset in our circles). Kinda like rebooting a PC, sometimes things arent seen that have been added unless the system is started up a fresh with them in place.

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If that happens (which is does quite a lot to me) disconnecting the battery and holding the terminals together will reset the system (called a termnal 30 reset in our circles). Kinda like rebooting a PC, sometimes things arent seen that have been added unless the system is started up a fresh with them in place.

Am I understanding correctly? Disconnect the + and - terminals and then touch them together?? How does this work with no power to the car?

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Thats correct, the point I believe is to discharge any residual power stored in any capacitors etc. Not sure if it actually does anything, but it seems to work a treat.

+1 any capacitors etc that are charged will discharge. This method used to work on my old Escort and Focus. I used to use one side of a well-insulated jump lead to do it. Left it connected for about 1/2 hour or so.

However, if the Skodas are anything like the Fords with "adapt to driving style", you might find the ride a little, er, "interesting" for the first 10/15 minutes whilst the adaptation takes place.

Disclaimery type thing:

Just to be clear though, we are NOT talking about shorting the battery, just the connections to the car itself. Shorting the battery, will make a rather big bang :o :o

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+1 any capacitors etc that are charged will discharge. This method used to work on my old Escort and Focus. I used to use one side of a well-insulated jump lead to do it. Left it connected for about 1/2 hour or so.

However, if the Skodas are anything like the Fords with "adapt to driving style", you might find the ride a little, er, "interesting" for the first 10/15 minutes whilst the adaptation takes place.

Disclaimery type thing:

Just to be clear though, we are NOT talking about shorting the battery, just the connections to the car itself. Shorting the battery, will make a rather big bang :o :o

So you wouldn't recommend laying a ring spanner between the treminals then???? :p

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  • 2 years later...

Hi

I have a 2006 tfsi vrs. It has the cruise control stalk. I have cleaned the pcb but no joy. I ordered a used stalk from eBay. Removed the circuit board and replaced this again it does not work. Could this be an option that needs activating, any ideas would be a great help

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