Is this right for a quick clean?

[VRS2012Blue]

Hi all.

I am after a bit of advice.

I cleaned the car fully 4/5 weeks ago adding AG EGP and a week later sprayed it down, used AG QD and applied a second coat of EGP.

I want to clean the car today and so wondering if I can just rinse down with maybe some Halfords pressure washer shampoo, apply the QD and voila! Or is it a case of doing a bit more? After all, the beading seams to be minimal at the moment.

Thanks in advance.

Paul.

[Wardy]

What are you thinking of for your process? That you'd be totally contactless here?

 

Shampoo on via pressure washer, rinse, QD apply, then what?

 

To be fully contactless the car needs to be quite clean in my experience, only really dust and any light grime, then use a proper snowfoam that will cling to the paint, then rinse. Then if you're using QD, you can't really just leave that to dry on the paint. You'd need to contact the paint with a MF or drying towel. Which may lead to issues if you're not 100% confident that any dirt/debris hasn't been dealt with.

 

Hope that makes sense and I've understood correctly.

[VRS2012Blue]

Hi Wardy.

After rinsing I would dry it with a MF towel whilst also applying the QD.

I suppose what I am asking is if I need to reapply the EGP after the QD? As I say, the car is starting to lose the ability to bead water. I was hoping/expecting the QD would top up the EGP as the EGP was only applied 4/5 weeks ago.

Thanks.

[ChrisRs]

QD should only be used as a quick spray after a wash to help in the drying process with your MF drying towel

OR

As a quick spray over your sealer or wax after you have dried the car

NOT

Before you add your LSP

[Sparkly]

QD should only be used as a quick spray after a wash to help in the drying process with your MF drying towel

OR

As a quick spray over your sealer or wax after you have dried the car

NOT

Before you add your LSP

+1

Unless you are happy to risk adding swirls and marring to your paint then even a quick was really ought to be:

Rinse

Two Bucket Method Shampoo contact wash

Rinse

Dry

.......then (not really part of a super quick clean but) if you then wish QD

.......or apply your LSP, and if you want QD afterwards

Above you are suggesting using your QD more like a waterless wash and wax (www) type product, the QD won't have the same level of dirt encapsulating properties as a www increasing the risk of swirls. I personally don't really like www's unless the car is very clean. My suggestion is downgrade your expectations of what both should be asked to do in terms of cleaning. As above QD's are great as drying aids and for cleaning up any water spots after a wash. Again I personally wouldn't even assume I could go straight to drying after snowfoaming. Think contactleast wash maybe rather than contactless.

If you really want a simpler speedier solution, maybe it would be worthwhile taking a look at ONR - Optimum No Rinse products, these have a big following and by all accounts might offer a lot of what you are after.

Also any last stage protection like AG EGP will always bond best on clean uncontaminated paint, a lot of purists don't even like shampoo's that carry wax if they intend to apply a sealant after.

Ok.....starting to bore myself now but I also find Halfords own brand shampoo's have been better for stripping LSP's rather than preserving. EGP is tough but will last longer and require less topping up with a better quality shampoo, the AG Bodywork Conditoner stuff is spot on and smells great.

Hope that helps.

Oh yeah, and let us know how you get on.

[VRS2012Blue]

Thanks again.

However, maybe I didn't explain myself properly :( I wasn't using the QD as a waterless wash.

In the end I pressure washed the car with water then Halfords Pressure Washer Shampoo (noted your remark Sparkly) and then dried it with a thick MF cloth and the QD. To me I don't see a problem with this as according to AG the Rapid Detailer can be used "if your car is in between clean and dirty, Rapid Detailer is perfect. It will not remove or affect polishes, waxes or sealants and actually tops up existing protection." So the car has been left alone since dried/buffed with the MF and QD.

This lead to my original question of if I needed to reapply my LSP (EGP)? Thoughts?

For my normal wash procedure I use the Bodywork Conditioner after the pressure washer sequence. Then onto drying, polishing with SRP and then EGP. I know that I need to introduce claying into my routine and am looking into it.

Regards, Paul.

[littleade]

applying srp then the egp should last for a number of months without you having to reapply them.

I use ag hd wax which normally lasts up to 6 months between applications.

I snowfoam, rinse, TBM with ag shampoo conditioner and a mf mit, then rinse, mf towel off followed by QD.

personally I've found snow foam doesn't remove all the dirt which is why I also use the TBM after so I don't end up applying the QD to a car thats not really clean. not worth the risk of getting swirls IMO and it doesn't take long

[Sparkly]

As littleade said the problem is that pressure washing with Shampoo will not leave the car 'clean' and plenty of grit will remain, that is why most would recommend that no matter what you do with the pressure washer you really ought to TBM wash after, so when you apply your microfiber cloth to a car that has just been pressure washed you are asking the quick Detailer to do quite a bit of cleaning. That is why I said you are using it a bit like a www. Rapid Detailer is a fine product but as said above and in other members post you need to consider that in reality qd's are for tidying up a car after a full wash and topping up your lsp.

Your method will work but over time you will I fear introduce swirls. I would suggest you use your ag bodywork conditioner using two bucket method regardless of whether you then apply qd for a quick finish or do a full polish and seal

On the EGP, a good single application could probably last 2 months with regular washing when it is topped up with rapid detailer. You can apply several layers on top of each other for a longer lasting protection. Your rinsing after washing will show you if the car still beads well which is a good sign your lsp is doing its job.

[VRS2012Blue]

Sorry for the delay in getting to you all.

 

Firstly, thanks again for all your input.

 

In the end I ended up doing it as I originally proposed. Having done it i wasnt enthralled by the results and agree with the point that I needed to shampoo it using the 2BM as well as just pressure washer it with some shampoo.

 

Also I am in the market for a replacement product to EGP. Is Collinite 476 the way to go or is that a different type of product? I was thinking of using on my wheels too.

 

Paul.

[Sparkly]

Firstly, good on you for coming back and letting us know how you got on. Quite a few people start a thread and then abandon it leaving the contributors in the dark. For TBM wash get yourself a good wash mitt.

EGP is a sealant, Collinite 476 is a hard wax, the application will be different and 476 will need a bit more work, however at it's price point I would say it's one of the. Most highly regarded wax's especially for durability.

My preference for wheels would be 845 from collinite as it is a high temperature resistant wax. I am sure plenty of people would still use 476 on wheels too, neither is wrong.

[VRS2012Blue]

Excuse my ignorance, so you would still apply something over the EGP anyway? And when you use the 476 do you then have a sealant underneath it?

[Sparkly]

Vrs2012blue as with all things there are many ways to look at it.

On the whole I think most people will have a preference for either sealant or wax depending on what they are trying to achieve in terms of look, longevity etc. Both sealants and waxes are classed as LSP, last stage protection so both are appropriate on their own with no need to layer one with the other. Some people like to apply both, the golden rule for most is to apply sealer direct to clean paint so naturally if you layer then wax would follow sealer. My own thought is that doing this is a little wasteful as the sealers tend to stop the wax having it's usual durability because the sealers are designed to inhibit things bonding to it's surface when cured.

In old school terms a sealant would be a synthetic product with good durability and quite a cold glassy finish, a wax would be a natural carnauba based product with great shine and warmth to the finish but less durable. As with cars and all things in life different advances in technologies and new formulations blue these lines massively. Some waxes are still based on natural carnauba some are hybrid and some are mostly synthetic, there are so many products out there you just need to get your hands on something that appeals and is well supported by enthusiasts and detailers give it a go and make your own mind up.

I thoroughly recommend signing up to detailing world forum, lots to learn and even some bargains to be had on group buys and promos

[VRS2012Blue]

Cheers Sparkly.

 

I do sometimes browse DW but only when I have linked through from Briskoda.

 

Paul.

[Sparkly]

No worries, anything else you need just drop me a PM, there is nothing more satisfying than getting your routine nailed, standing back and enjoying the results.

With SWMBO and her jobs list, plus a 1 year old I'm not getting nearly as much chance to keep on top of my Fabia...........so I need to live vicariously through Briskie members who can.

Whether you are waxing or sealing can I suggest you allow plenty of time to get it right, good prep, patient application and comprehensive buffing, then when it's done you can enjoy it for many weeks. If you don't have the time just use your QD until your next full detail. I rushed an application a week ago and have been really annoyed at myself since.

[Wardy]

If it helps, full detail for me is:

 

1. Foam
2. Rinse
3. 2BM
4. Rinse
5. Clay
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Intensive polish via DA
9. Final polish via DA
10. Glaze
11. Sealant
12. 2 coats of wax

 

Some may disagree, especially around the glaze and selant stages, but my use of Black Hole, then Jeff's Prime Strong has produced excellent results for me over the course of 5 Skodas

 

Cheers,
Steve

[Wardy]

And just for completeness, a weekly wash process for me would be:

 

1. Foam
2. Rinse
3. 2BM with washmitt
4. Rinse
5. QD spray over car
6. Dry

[Sparkly]

If it helps, full detail for me is:

• Foam
• Rinse
• 2BM
• Rinse
• Clay
• Rinse
• Dry
• Intensive polish via DA
• Final polish via DA
• Glaze
• Sealant
• 2 coats of wax

Some may disagree, especially around the glaze and selant stages, but my use of Black Hole, then Jeff's Prime Strong has produced excellent results for me over the course of 5 Skodas

Cheers,

Steve

Nothing to disagree with in the above Wardy , I think the lesson is to try some products and find out what you like and what works on your car's paint, there aren't too many hard and fast rules. The most important point is that you've found out what gives you results, I imagine through plenty of trial and error.

The real problems come when it all turns into a sordid wax fetish that see's the garage accumulating pot upon pot of every LSP out there

[ChrisRs]

You're learning Steve..  .LOL

[Wardy]

Haha 

 

Nearly 10 years since my 2BM epiphany - scary! 

[Sparkly]

I feel like I'm on the outside of an in-joke

I think I may have just sounded like I was teaching the proverbial Granny to suck eggs. Not how it was intended btw.

........I'll get my coat

[Wardy]

Not at all, all useful stuff

[ChrisRs]

Nice to see we are all doing it right guys