R8MXX

Well my 2006 TFSi vRS has eaten its first clutch after 117,000 miles. It is Stage One mapped - around 240bhp - and with no other engine mods and not planning anything else unless the engine goes bang! What options do I have for clutch kits apart from the normal Sachs or LUK. Obviously I am also going to replace the DMF at the same time to avoid any other problems down the line. The way I see it is the standard clutch has lasted since 50k with the Stage One map - so do I just put another standard setup in it? Always hear horror stories about so called 'uprated' clutch kits! Open to any suggestions or opinions people may have....

Here is a link to the thread... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/index.php?/topic/273037-vRS-2%2E0T-FSI---Stuttering-at-idle-and-on-acceleration-up-to-2000-rpm%2E%2E%2E Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Look at my previous posts and find the one on the hesitation of my 2.0 TFSI VRS... Almost exactly the same issues as you are seeing, again was showing no fault codes. After lots of searching it was due to excess carbon build up in the intake valves.. There is pics and a full how to in that thread! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Would be great if people could read. The original poster has a MK1 not a MK2.. We all know the MK2's do it - hes simply asking if there a way it could be done on a MK1.....

Is the blue engine cover insert still available?

Ive been told by my local VAG specialist that the TFSI's do not run totally flat on idle and that all of them have a slight murmur... Even after the clean out I still get it on mine!

I should take a look at my old thread below as you have exactly the same symptoms I had: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/273037-vrs-20t-fsi-stuttering-at-idle-and-on-acceleration-up-to-2000-rpm/ Turned out to be the inlet valves clogged up with carbon deposits which meant stripping the inlet manifold off and getting in there and doing a manual clean... VCDS scans don't show anything when this happens!

No, sorry - £20 delivered is a fair price... Will put it on eBay shortly if no one is interested on here....

Seafoam won't work, trust me. If they get to the point where the issues are being seen then it needs manual cleaning - take a look at the photos earlier in this thread of my intake valves! Baldy1926 - when it goes in get them to inspect the intake valves and manual clean them if required... At 88k you could easily have the same issue as me even thou yours in more severe. I also had rough running on idle and hesitation which was dramatically reduced once the manual clean had taken place. Think more and more VRS's are going to start seeing these problems as mileages reach around the 100k marker!

Do you mean BWA engine? Don't think a BMA engine exists! Would be £35 delivered to Ireland, that would be an insured and signed for service which I would insist on. PM me if you are interested

What issues are you seeing exactly?

What he said!

BUMP!

On bank holiday monday I took on the task of changing my air con condensor due to it failing on my 2006 Octavia vRS 2.0T. To complete this I had to remove the lock carrier/crash bar from the front of the car to be able to access the front of the rad pack. When it all went back on I lined it back up to the original 8 bolt holes where it had been placed previously (marked the position before removal) and for some reason the part of the bumper under the passenger side headlight is refusing to sit correctly and is probably about 5mm out which is leaving uneven looking gaps. The bonnet shuts and opens fine and the gap from the bonnet to the centre of the crash bar is spot on! One thing I did notice is that the bumper rail which runs under the passenger side headlight wasn't sitting flush on the lock carrier/crash bar like the other side so when the final bolts are being applied I think this is what is dragging the bumper down to its incorrect position. Any ideas how I could go about re-aligning it? Open to any suggestions!

As said above! PP1624....