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Guys, just in case its of any use to anyone that hasn't seen this in my project thread, I thought Id drop a copy in here also.... So, now an interesting development and the first negative of my Yeti ownership experience in the three and a half years I've had her. Ive often read that people have had issues with their panoramic sunroofs leaking into the foot wells of the car. However, ive never had an issue with water ingress and Ive even tried to make it leak in the past (being in warranty then!) with the use of a hose! The car has also been parked up in absolutely torrential storms in the last coupe of years (one was so bad that it almost trapped us in Altea, Spain by causing multiple landslides across the mountain roads below where we were staying!) But whatever conditions we've hit, the cabin has always remained 100% watertight. Therefore, you could probably guess how surprised I was to go to the car recently and see a few drips down the inside of the passenger foot well below the A-pillar. Admittedly, the rain over night was probably the longest and hardest we'd seen in years in the UK but I was surprised none the less! I removed a couple of internal panels to see if I could work out exactly where it was coming in. First I removed the dashboard passenger side end panel - I found a series of drips running down from above so that meant I had to remove the passenger side A pillar trim, higher up. This now gave me a clear look at the passenger side sunroof drain (in red) and the surrounding area. The drips were coming from higher up but I wanted to spend some time trying various methods of clearing any blockage before removing any more internal panels.... I tried different methods of clearing any blockage but I was concerned I could possibly cause more issue if I caught the rubber drainage duct internally with something too hard or from just being too aggressive. It was clear that there was certainly dirt and gunk built up inside the channels BUT when I poured water into the sunroof surround to test, most of it was appearing fairly quickly at the external drainage hole (the hole by the door hinge). Even though most was coming straight through and into the outside world.... there was still some dripping freely down the A pillar, internally into the cabin. So I carried on looking further up towards the roof... What I saw (and really didn't like) was the use of black cable ties directly onto the flexible rubber drainage pipe. The one at the top of the A-pillar appeared to have been done too tightly from the factory. Ive pulled the drainage channel down very slightly in the above photo so you can see the mark it had made. It was squeezing the rubber drain tight and restricting its flow by probably 30%. So, was this the problem? Well it certainly wasn't helping but the actual problem could be found still further up towards the sunroof surround... Having removed the rubber door sill slightly as well as the passenger interior grab handle and sunvisors from the roofs interior, I could just see up into the void between the interior roof skin and the sunroof surround. It looked as though the white connector on the end of the red drain channel was the part actually leaking. To me, it felt as though it had too much movement on the end of the black sunroof drain channel connector. So at this point I decided Id done enough investigating and hatched a proper plan to resolve not only this specific issue but to also ensure I wouldn't have the issue in the future... from either this or one of the other three sunroof drainage outlets. Over the course of the next three evenings I stripped the interior roof skin out so I had full and unhindered access to all four of the drainage outlets. Once done, how much effort did it take to see if my gut feeling was correct? Very little is the answer, the drainage pipe came away from the black connector far too easily for my liking. My plan: Remove each of the drainage outlets from the four corners of the sunroof frame surround. Clear out the drains properly by use of compressed air and cleaning agents that were kind to the rubber. Reattach the drain connectors with a specific waterproof sealer and adhesive. Cable tie the connectors to ensure a 100% watertight refit. Fully test for water tightness before refitting the internal trim panels. Just clearing out the drainage channels made a massive difference in how quickly water emptied from the sunroof surround to the ground via the four drainage point (front two by the door hinges, rear two out the back by the top of the tailgate). After my second evening, I ended up with this... Four connectors, all with waterproof sealant internally (very carefully done to ensure that none made its way to anywhere near the actual inside of the red drain pipe) as well as externally at the top of the white connector to the black sunroof frame surround and lower down on the underside of the white connector where it met with the red drainage pipe. Then I put a cable tie in place to ensure it was clamped tight. I wasn't taking any chances and wanted to do a proper job to save me any further issues in the future. Result: Problem cured and unlikely to happen again due to it being a better solution than the factory did imo and everything back together perfectly with no evidence of water ingress issues - mainly due to catching it quickly and resolving it within a couple of days. I can only assume that the heat and cold must loosen the connection between the hard plastic sunroof surround and the slightly softer plastic white connector over time. Trust it to finally 'let go' six months out of warranty but I'm happy with the fix.

Ok, so here’s the deal. I’ve red all sorts of thing on the net about Yeti Tow bars and wiring them. Most people in the UK seem to get the dealer to fit it because their dealers charge reasonable fee. Here in Australia however, dealers seem to think they have sold us an Audi and charge accordingly. My quote was $1700. So I decided to fit mine myself as I’m reasonably handy at these kinds of thing. I have to say with all I’d red, the task seemed quite daunting Turns out that once I had the right information and parts, it couldn’t have been easier. My first issue was getting the right parts. I ordered everything from PF Jones in the UK. PF Jones have been fantastic to deal with and it was with their help I managed to sort out the only problem I had. These are the initial parts I ordered. The wiring kit is wrong as it’s for a Yeti without “Tow Prep”. There are a couple of different types of detachable tow bars. I went with the Witter Flange type but I believe the Westfalia or Witter standard type would be equally as good. NOT FOR TOW PREP Superb Yeti 7 Pin Dedicated Wiring Kit 2009 on 19220508RC Skoda Yeti 2009 on Detachable Flange tow bar 3.5t 1" Jaw, Pin & Ball Stainless Steel Bumper Protector I have never heard of a Australian delivered Yeti not having “Tow Prep”. Amongst other things, “Tow Prep” provides a connector in the back of the vehicle for the trailer wiring harness to connect to. I was aware the connector for the tow wiring was behind the plastic panel on the left hand side of the vehicle. I had received everything from PF Jones prior to my Yeti being delivered but once I had my Yeti and the panel off I could not work out how the PF Jones wiring harness connected so I called them. Their tech department was great and quickly worked out the kit was for a vehicle without “Tow Prep” they couldn’t provide me with the correct wiring kit but were happy for me to send the kit back for a refund. I called around a couple of dealers here in Australia for the genuine Skoda part “EEA 630 002 E4”. I was quoted $730 from Canberra and $530 from Nowra. My Yeti was in pieces and I didn’t want to put it back together to have to pull it apart again so I wanted to get the wiring kit ASAP. With some help from a member from Briskoda Forum, I was put in contact with a dealer in the UK. Royal Mail freight for 5 days deliver and 1kg was only 22 pound. The price from the UK with freight ended up being $265. Take that Australian Dealers. So this is what arrived: (Sorry about rubbish photo) With this control Unit: Here is where the control unit gets fitted. Yep Here: The kit comes with these plugs and screws: And they get fitted here: Like this: Then this red plug: Found here: Goes into the control unit like this: And this plug from the harness goes into the other socket on the control unit: Then the control unit goes here: And the screws go in. The control unit has a slot in one end and a hole in the other so you can put the first screw in and then just slot the control unit behind the screw and tighten it after the second screw is in: Take the earth wire and put it under this bolt: Like this: Then take these cable ties (supplied in the kit): and push them over the panel seem. Here: Ok from here on is how to reassemble the panels. You can just reverse for the removal procedure. I was too busy being careful not to break the clips when I was dismantling. Turned out I didn’t need to worry. This clips are well designed and never looked like breaking. There are some tricks though to pull the panels in the right directions. The main big panel has a clip here:, Just be sure to get the edge of the panel under the carpet. 2 screws here: 2 here: